tree felling question
- Thread starter Man of Tanith
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
A picture says a thousand words. If no photo comes forth, I think you should take on site advice from a professional. Does the owner know of the danger? would they pay to have it felled? If there is any public access, they may have a duty of care. Not that you would want to pressure them - if they have done you a favor with access.
Correct, it's not. Beech is though
(But I've only ever seen one Beech tree shed a branch unexpectedly)
Photos not available for a couple more weeks when I'm up there next.
Its my godfathers woods and its not public access.
I'd rather not nobble him to pay for it and I suspect it'd be a case of him havin an amateur go (farmer so doesn't like spending if he can avoid it)
Correct, it's not. Beech is though
No, it's Ash. I've seen barber chair cuts that have finished at 14'. Imagine being next to it when that final bit of wood splits out. It'll knock your head off.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?autoplay...uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DdneRsWyGtcc%26autoplay%3D1
Because it splits easily. Chestnut is a bit the same. But given the choice of bringing down a big Ash or a big Chestnut, I'd take the Chestnut anyday..
Another name for 'barber chairs' is 'widow makers and, as far as I'm aware, can happen to any tree. The video you've linked to is for an oak and ...
Linky thing .
I was going to edit this in, a quick search shows that
So a case of we're both correct
In Devon the beech is known as the widow maker, for the afore mentioned explanation, although lots of aged or mature trees can do unpredictable things, particularly in high winds and after heavy rainfall.
Going back to the op, in my opinion the ash is the most difficult tree to fell, when under pressure leaning heavily or windblown certainly when mature, there are not many trees in this country you have to bore fell to reduce the risk of accident. (although sometimes more to preserve the value of the timber, so as it does not pull)
Ivan...
My initial comment of 1/2 stick of pe4 plus det cord was going to be tongue in cheek.(got a chance in Belgium, retreated far enough to avoid splinters).
fire to burn it apart was the next.
Safest was used a winch pulley combo with a long rope to ensure falling limbs.
Without seeing it, what's your 'best guess' suggestion for dealing with a mostly cracked off at the base ash? I'm guessing that getting in there and cutting might not be amongst the smarter choices ~ I've not seen it either, but I'm due to
Without seeing it, what's your 'best guess' suggestion for dealing with a mostly cracked off at the base ash? I'm guessing that getting in there and cutting might not be amongst the smarter choices ~ I've not seen it either, but I'm due to
With respect, such a difficult one, even with a comprehensive set of photos to scale, and when you have not seen the thing come down, what other species it is hooked up in etc etc.
But with hearsay of it being an average mans thigh, at the base, with splintering most of the pressure appears to have gone in the fall, i would dearly love to see and help, but distance etc would make that foolish, as would blind advice, sorry if i can't help, but if anything where to go wrong because i offered anything, i would feel terrible.
Ivan...
The only thing i would say, is if the splintering and damage is less than knee height, i would consider felling it above the damage, either traditional dip and back cut or even bore if you know what you are doing.
All answers are helpful
Even if you don't want to hear 'Run away and let it alone!', it's still a helpful answer . I suspect much discussion and many brews will be had before we drop it An explanation of "barbers chair".
This is possible on many trees, some more prone than others. Leaning trees, or those with stress in the timber are dangerous.
In days gone by, felling was done with a crosscut saw by one or two people. The cut was put in from the back until the tree fell, sometimes splitting way up the trunk leaving a long section of uncut wood sticking up, and the butt doing uncontrollable stuff. Without a directional gob, mouth, sink etc (the wedge cut from the front), this is a dangerous way to fell. Chainsaws have made this much easier to do.
I know I posted an Oak barber chairing, any wood under stress can do it. I've found the Ash an unfriendly tree to work with in general, Chestnut leaners have batted the saw from my hands. Ash as the widow maker does seem to be Sussex, I'd suggest it's regional due to soil type, though we have a majority of Beech here. Whatever, barber chairs shouldn't occur in these modern days.
Experience is generally something you need just before you experience it
This is possible on many trees, some more prone than others. Leaning trees, or those with stress in the timber are dangerous.
In days gone by, felling was done with a crosscut saw by one or two people. The cut was put in from the back until the tree fell, sometimes splitting way up the trunk leaving a long section of uncut wood sticking up, and the butt doing uncontrollable stuff. Without a directional gob, mouth, sink etc (the wedge cut from the front), this is a dangerous way to fell. Chainsaws have made this much easier to do.
I know I posted an Oak barber chairing, any wood under stress can do it. I've found the Ash an unfriendly tree to work with in general, Chestnut leaners have batted the saw from my hands. Ash as the widow maker does seem to be Sussex, I'd suggest it's regional due to soil type, though we have a majority of Beech here. Whatever, barber chairs shouldn't occur in these modern days.
Experience is generally something you need just before you experience it
Can be done both easy and safely - just with the help of a strong rope of sufficient lenght.
Tie the strong rope on to the tree. As high as possible. Shoot a small line over a high branch with an arrow or slingshot and pull a heavier rope over.
Rope should be considerably longer than the height of the tree in question.
Attach rope to one or several strong trees in the direction of the half-felled tree. Construct a spanish windlass of two straight pieces of timber/wood near the anchor-point.
The lever in the windlass should be 3 to 5 meters long. The generated pull will be several tonnes.
MAKE SURE that you are well out of reach of the falling tree. At least twice its height!
Turn the spanish windlass and slowly bring the tree down.
You could use a kochanski winch for the same purpose, but I would prefer the spanish windlass as the kochanski stores an awful lot of energy and can be quite deadly if you suddenly let go. The spanish windlass stores equally amount of energy, but is much more predictable if things go wrong. Downside is that it takes longer to construct.
Even quite big and stubborn trees can be pulled down this way. Same method can be used for pulling stumps out of the ground. Did a lot of such improvised riggings earlier when I cleared a bit of forrest at my smallholding. Nowadays I just start the bulldozer...
//Kim Horsevad
Tie the strong rope on to the tree. As high as possible. Shoot a small line over a high branch with an arrow or slingshot and pull a heavier rope over.
Rope should be considerably longer than the height of the tree in question.
Attach rope to one or several strong trees in the direction of the half-felled tree. Construct a spanish windlass of two straight pieces of timber/wood near the anchor-point.
The lever in the windlass should be 3 to 5 meters long. The generated pull will be several tonnes.
MAKE SURE that you are well out of reach of the falling tree. At least twice its height!
Turn the spanish windlass and slowly bring the tree down.
You could use a kochanski winch for the same purpose, but I would prefer the spanish windlass as the kochanski stores an awful lot of energy and can be quite deadly if you suddenly let go. The spanish windlass stores equally amount of energy, but is much more predictable if things go wrong. Downside is that it takes longer to construct.
Even quite big and stubborn trees can be pulled down this way. Same method can be used for pulling stumps out of the ground. Did a lot of such improvised riggings earlier when I cleared a bit of forrest at my smallholding. Nowadays I just start the bulldozer...
//Kim Horsevad
I have pulled a partially fallen tree (a sycamore) out of the ground using my Landrover's Hi-Lift jack, in much the same way that one might use one to pull a vehicle out of a ditch. Straps, rope and the jack are all you'd need to walk in and you'd be able to keep yourself a good distance from any danger while you pump the lever.
I have pulled a partially fallen tree (a sycamore) out of the ground using my Landrover's Hi-Lift jack, in much the same way that one might use one to pull a vehicle out of a ditch. Straps, rope and the jack are all you'd need to walk in and you'd be able to keep yourself a good distance from any danger while you pump the lever.
You've given me an idea with that suggestion.
I just have to check I've got the necessary bits still to do what I'm thinking of
You've given me an idea with that suggestion.
I just have to check I've got the necessary bits still to do what I'm thinking of
Whatever plan is enacted, we need to see a video afterwards.
Similar threads
