Tool sharpening

Fly_Viking

Member
Apr 15, 2012
27
0
Not where I want to be!
I found an old and DULL Kent pattern axe at a bootfair at the weekend and thought I'll try and sharpen it. I got some diamond stones, a range of wet and dry sandpaper and some honing paste. I thought I try the sandpaper and mousepad technique on an old kitchen knife first before I start on the axe. After about 20-30 strokes with the corsest (400 grit) it feels like the paper has lost all its grit. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? Btw I'm pulling the edge away from me. Hope someone can give me some pointers.
 

Perrari

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 21, 2012
3,090
1
Eryri (Snowdonia)
www.erknives.com
If it is a very dull edge & you need to remove a lot of material, start off using a file, a coarse one to start then a finer one, then move on to abrasive paper. 400 grit is a fairly fine grade, you would be better off when you start using the paper at around 80grit, and work your way up to the finer grades.
Hope this helps.
 

MartiniDave

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 29, 2003
2,355
130
62
Cambridgeshire
Did you get your wet & dry from the poundshop by any chance?

You really need the better quality stuff from a decent hardware store. It will dull back a little, but I'm using boards with wet & dry stuck on that I've had for 4 or 5 years.

Dave
 

Stringmaker

Native
Sep 6, 2010
1,891
1
UK
You'd be surprised how fast abrasives wear down.

A simple rule of thumb is to just lightly drag your fingertips across the paper before and after use; you'll soon feel when the paper is past its best.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,866
2,104
Mercia
Good tutorials! But I'm still curious about the longevity of the sandpaper. Surely it shouldn't start to loose its grit after about 30 passes each way?

Depends on how hard you press, angle of hold, and how rough the workpiece is. Also, as noted, it depends on the paper - both quality and type. Sandpaper is really for wood - wet and dry is for metal.

Given the job you described, I would get hold of a coarse or b*stard file, then move on to a second cut file, then coarse paper (maybe 120 grit) and down the grades. You have started with a medium fine finishing paper.

On the kitchen knife it should not have worn down nearly that fast - I get wet and dry from Screwfix - its good stuff and next day delivery is free - try them

Red
 

Samon

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 24, 2011
3,970
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Britannia!
I've found sandpaper to wear down very fast too. The stuff I have used in the past was crap, cheap tat. The stuff I use now is better but it still wears down fast.

I have also wondered how people make these sandpaper sharpening blocks last long enough to deem them money savers. Sandpaperisn't that cheap and tbh you're probably better off getting a cheapo pack of diamond sharpeners (the ones with blue red and yellow backs) they cost about £2-4 and actually last quite long.

the only wet n dry I have left is 600 grit and I did try the other day to make use of it on a knife that needed a little rough touch up and it wasn't great compared to my other cheap alternatives and no way near as good as my decent stuff.
 

Teepee

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 15, 2010
4,115
5
Northamptonshire
Wet and dry is silicon carbide. No matter what the quality, its a brittle material and will wear quickly. I spend every day using the stuff, as soon as it hits metal or stone it blunts quickly.

Decent alu oxide paper won't cut as quick but will wear better.

I use wet and dry because I buy it in bulk for work but wouldn't use it for sharpening axes if I had equivalent grade alu oxide paper.
 

bikebum1975

Settler
Mar 2, 2009
664
1
49
Connecticut
3M auto grade Imperial sandpaper nuff said won't touch the cheap crap again myself. Have used sandpaper to sharpen a very dull stainless blade and worked well for me also found it takes a light touch for the passes on it
 

Samon

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 24, 2011
3,970
44
Britannia!
So if I have to buy expensive paper it's not really economical. Maybe a "puck" for the axe? Any suggestions how to sharpen knives without spending a gazzilion pounds?

You don't have to spend loads as such but if you spent £30 you could get enough to do your axes and knives. You will need a fine/medium metal file to get out any dinks in your axe http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3PC-6-FIL...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3f005b854e, a cheapo pack of diamond sharpeners(http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRO-DIAMO...pt=UK_Kitchen_Accessories&hash=item2a0dd1f368) << I found these for £3 and even though they are cheap and won't last as long as the pricey ones they work much better than paper! these will do good for rough to medium work onyour knives and axes. and a simple and well priced thing like this can help you get your knives touched up nice and good! http://www.heinnie.com/Sharpeners/Lansky-Sharpening-Systems/Lansky-Turn-Box-Four-Rod/p-370-214-4559/

if you want a pocket sharpener then maybe try the fallkniven dc4, people really like them http://www.heinnie.com/Fallkniven-DC3DC4-Whetstones/p-0-0-418/ . My DC4 was crap though, it wasn't flat at all and had lumps but I think I got unlucky (I contacted fallkniven and they were useles, typical big named company imo) but consider it.
 

MartiniDave

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Aug 29, 2003
2,355
130
62
Cambridgeshire
I've picked up good quality oilstones from car boot sales, usually for about 50p each. Not quite as clean to use as waterstone but every bit as effective. Usually found an stalls with old toolboxes and tools on them.

Dave
 

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