The king of stoves?
- Thread starter Jon Mawer
- Start date
I never owned a optimus 123, but i have seen them in action. I don't think there are very noisy. Have heard much louder onces.
The problem with the stove seems to be the over-pressure valve. I know a guy that was telling me about his stove. You know the little pre-heat plate? That dent in the tank. That dent suddenly just sprung the other way on his stove. He atleast got enough warning to shut the stove down, before he got a BLEVE. He was telling me that story with the same stove, with repaired valve towards me... But i have also heard others with over-pressure problems. Which shouldn't happen with the valve.
I 'm sticking to my trangia stoves at the moment. Also nice brass, just saver.
The problem with the stove seems to be the over-pressure valve. I know a guy that was telling me about his stove. You know the little pre-heat plate? That dent in the tank. That dent suddenly just sprung the other way on his stove. He atleast got enough warning to shut the stove down, before he got a BLEVE. He was telling me that story with the same stove, with repaired valve towards me... But i have also heard others with over-pressure problems. Which shouldn't happen with the valve.
I 'm sticking to my trangia stoves at the moment. Also nice brass, just saver.
If a 123 overheats, the valve will blow. A mate of mine used a swedish trangia base as a windshield and the trapped heat was enough to pop the valve. Allow air between any windshield and the stove and you will have no problems. Combine the 123 and a Sigg Tourist Cookset for the perfect combination 
I have a couple of pumps but find if you double prime the 123 the pump is redundant.
Trangia cannot be beaten for solo trips because it is simple and 100% reliable. As a stove collector I have several dozen stoves to pick from for a solo trip, but the Trangia (27) wins every time
I have a couple of pumps but find if you double prime the 123 the pump is redundant.
Trangia cannot be beaten for solo trips because it is simple and 100% reliable. As a stove collector I have several dozen stoves to pick from for a solo trip, but the Trangia (27) wins every time
rik_uk3 said:If a 123 overheats, the valve will blow. A mate of mine used a swedish trangia base as a windshield and the trapped heat was enough to pop the valve. Allow air between any windshield and the stove and you will have no problems. Combine the 123 and a Sigg Tourist Cookset for the perfect combination
I have a couple of pumps but find if you double prime the 123 the pump is redundant.
Trangia cannot be beaten for solo trips because it is simple and 100% reliable. As a stove collector I have several dozen stoves to pick from for a solo trip, but the Trangia (27) wins every time
thats what i ment, the vent should blow. But doesn't always do that. The spring seams to rust in the valve, making it useless. Broken valve + overheating = BLEVE.
Bogflogger, I've never heard of that happen, its a surprise to me, I'll check with mates on the stove forum
Its by no means a regular trait of this stove, but when you use them on a regular basis rusting should not happen. I've several 123's, some an easy 30+ years old, never had a cap problem other than replacing a seal or two which have gone hard and loose pressure that way. I'll get back if I find any of the lads on the stove forum have come across this problem
Its by no means a regular trait of this stove, but when you use them on a regular basis rusting should not happen. I've several 123's, some an easy 30+ years old, never had a cap problem other than replacing a seal or two which have gone hard and loose pressure that way. I'll get back if I find any of the lads on the stove forum have come across this problem
Agreed, this is not a regular trait of the Svea 123!
As I have already said, I used one regularly for 15 years.
The only way you will get an overpressure explosion, would be through failing to do any maintenence (stick a drop of light oil into the hole on the outside of the ball valve/filler cap regularly) or through storing the stove long term in damp conditions.
It should also be noted, that using a close fitting windscreen or large diameter pans should be avoided, as the trapped heat will increase the chance of the pressure valve releasing and blasting a 2ft jet of pressurised burning petrol at you.
As I have already said, I used one regularly for 15 years.
The only way you will get an overpressure explosion, would be through failing to do any maintenence (stick a drop of light oil into the hole on the outside of the ball valve/filler cap regularly) or through storing the stove long term in damp conditions.
It should also be noted, that using a close fitting windscreen or large diameter pans should be avoided, as the trapped heat will increase the chance of the pressure valve releasing and blasting a 2ft jet of pressurised burning petrol at you.
I posted a question about the 123 problem with people at the classic camp stove forum, the response to date shows what happened to the stove in question to be a "one off"
What fuel was the person using? what size pot? What windshield?
Very strange, should just not happen
http://www.spiritburner.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4086
What fuel was the person using? what size pot? What windshield?
Very strange, should just not happen
http://www.spiritburner.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4086
brassnipplekey wrote:
keep it safe guys ...... standard procedure for pressure testing of vessels is with them filled with water ........
(that bit is right)
and then submerge them in water to contain any sudden release of pressure.
lance
Errrrrrrr nope, when ever we tested large pressure vessels (I worked as a weld inspector at a place that made pressure vessels) we filled them with water but there was no way yer going to put a 30 foot long pressure vessel in a tank of water, plus theres no point cos water is effectivly uncompressable, thats why some two stroke pipes are pressure formed with water as its far safer that trying to blow it to shape using air.
keep it safe guys ...... standard procedure for pressure testing of vessels is with them filled with water ........
(that bit is right)
and then submerge them in water to contain any sudden release of pressure.
lance
Errrrrrrr nope, when ever we tested large pressure vessels (I worked as a weld inspector at a place that made pressure vessels) we filled them with water but there was no way yer going to put a 30 foot long pressure vessel in a tank of water, plus theres no point cos water is effectivly uncompressable, thats why some two stroke pipes are pressure formed with water as its far safer that trying to blow it to shape using air.
