The Best Jacket for BushCraft – Part 1.

  • Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.

Jaeger

Full Member
Dec 3, 2014
670
24
United Kingdom
Aye Up All,

This appears to be a recurring topic on the site and has prompted me not only to create a review of one which I use frequently myself but to post an insight to the thought process which perhaps ought to go ahead of making a jacket choice.
The question ‘which is the best jacket for BushCraft?’ is a pretty subjective question – a bit like asking ‘what is the best knife?’ or ‘what is the best boot?’ As some members have already quite rightly responded – “It is the jacket that suits your BushCraft needs”. There are however, I believe, certain fundamental (possibly common) factors that should guide us in an initial ‘right’ direction when it comes to choice, e.g. – what is the point of wearing a jacket in the first place? Here are a few suggestions –
Protection - from the elements - wind/rain/snow/sun/temperature;
Protection - from the environment - foliage – hawthorn/gorse/bramble/bracken etc;
Protection - from your activities - shelter/fire construction/use; ground contact; rucksack carriage;
Adjustability – the ability to control the micro-climate within your clothing - venting or insulating;
Carriage - of items that support your activities – anything from a pencil to another garment!
Concealment – if being low profile is a requirement – and this doesn’t necessarily mean disruptive pattern camouflage.

Many jackets of different fabrics/configuration/style may appear to initially fulfil the above until you explore your own specific use of one and discover both its advantages and limitations. Take the elements aspect for instance – would you want to cross country nav or hill-trek, in sunshine, with a pack-load - in a heavy wool smock? (or at anytime for that matter!). Conversely, would you want to sit around a base camp in cool/cold weather - in just a polycotton jacket? Both those statements have in fact introduced not just the weather elements aspect but the personal activities level also! Remaining with the weather aspect though (and both the aforementioned materials) would you want a garment that remains wet for hours after your initial activities whilst you are sat around your base camp or overnight-ting in a (cool) shelter? (cool as in temp – not construction!). I learned that lesson with Ventile and wool back in the 80’s during a very wet Scottish ML course!) In my experience it is better to have a shell garment that sheds water not holds it – hello Goretex etc - but obviously that material is defo not resilient to quite a few BC relevant activities and so a point recently made by another member re not looking for a jacket that does absolutely everything to the letter, holds water, if you will pardon the pun. A few simple questions will inform your thought process: When will you need full H20 proof – on the move – yes; under your tarp/in your shelter – infrequently. When will you need full insulation – on the move – less likely; static – most likely. When will you need the following attributes – comfort, robustness, durability, adjust-ability, spark resistance, carriage ability (pockets) and possibly discreet appearance - I would venture almost 24/7. So simply by identifying the point(s) of having a jacket and asking when will I need those features a natural division is identified between H20proof, insulation and other attributes. Indirectly it has identified ‘the layering principle’. Without going into the technicalities of it (or the plethora of material types and claims within it) the layering principle does offer the most versatility of any clothing system. Allied to intelligent selection of base/mid layer materials and garment styles and correct venting/insulating practice relevant to your activities it is difficult to beat. In my experience the main challenge of the layering system is getting the bulk-to-function for each garment correct so that you achieve comfort without towing a hand cart behind. But to maintain focus on that BushCraft jacket itself (which I believe fits into the outer-layer (not the shell!) of the layering system, there is yet another fundamental element to it – fit! I have often watched in dismay people trying on (and purchasing) clothing, particularly mil surplus jackets and trousers which were simply too small, with the potential to restrict movement when under-layers are added leading to cold spots at pressure points especially at elbows; knees; seat; shoulders etc. Shoulder width is probably the most critical dimension – especially if the jacket has a ‘set-in’ sleeve construction (a la M65 pattern) and if you (mistakenly) choose it exactly whilst wearing only thin layers beneath. As you subsequently have to add layers whilst in the great outdoors that arm seam moves onto the shoulder ‘plane’ tightening the arm hole and shortening the sleeve length= physical and thermal discomfort. Better to start with a jacket that is slightly too big and allow for those under layers, you can always roll cuffs and pull in waist and hem cords when under-layers are fewer. (or is it just about looking Gucci? :lmao:) Or you can purchase a jacket that doesn’t have the (mostly now outdated) set-in sleeve in favour of the kimono style (more on that in Part 2.) Oh yes – and there is one other aspect (a major requirement perhaps in the view of some) which has to be factored in – value for money! I’m fortunate enough to have either been issued with or able to have afforded some of the most technically capable (claimed!) and expensive C&E over many decades and it has all been used up to and beyond its design capabilities. Much of it has been nice to own but rarely has it surpassed expectations in the field. There are alternatives. I think that I have now more than scratched the surface re BC jacket requirements/specifications and more importantly pre-purchase thought process without yet identifying a specific recommendation. No doubt there will be those who wish to add to or challenge my opinions - which is a good thing before I do post the review so that this info and any comments can be absorbed and subsequently applied by anyone later viewing ‘the best’ BushCraft jacket review, which I will post tomorrow. Enjoy! :D
 

swotty

Full Member
Apr 25, 2009
1,878
246
Somerset
Yep, sorry, got to admit that couldn't read this. Please re write as it could be an interesting thread.
 

Inky

Full Member
Nov 4, 2012
179
8
Cambridge
the op has probably been berated enough his verbiage so leaving that to one side and returning to the topic, this question of jackets always ends up going round in circles. It's largely a matter of the best bushcraft jacket for YOU, rather than anything more objective. Personally I prefer cheap, army surplus stuff. Its tough, has loads of pockets, blends in with the woods and, in my view, treated pollycotton is just as waterproof as much more expensive Ventiel, in other words, not all that waterproof but ok for a shower or two.

I have two favourites that I alternate between depending on my mood, a soldier 95 smock (the ripstop one with the button on hood... I know but I like it) and a German flektarn parka (love that camo). I have a few overhead smocks (70s cadet one, Swedish snow one) and while I love them on an esthetic level, I don't find them as practical as something with a zip. Be interested to hear about others favourites.
 
Nov 29, 2004
7,808
22
Scotland
The OP appears to have cut and pasted his text from a WP program and what may have appeared nicely set out there hasn't carried over to here.

---

Aye Up All,


This appears to be a recurring topic on the site and has prompted me not only to create a review of one which I use frequently myself but to post an insight to the thought process which perhaps ought to go ahead of making a jacket choice.


The question ‘which is the best jacket for BushCraft?’ is a pretty subjective question – a bit like asking ‘what is the best knife?’ or ‘what is the best boot?’ As some members have already quite rightly responded – “It is the jacket that suits your BushCraft needs”. There are however, I believe, certain fundamental (possibly common) factors that should guide us in an initial ‘right’ direction when it comes to choice, e.g. – what is the point of wearing a jacket in the first place?

Here are a few suggestions –

Protection - from the elements - wind/rain/snow/sun/temperature;
Protection - from the environment - foliage – hawthorn/gorse/bramble/bracken etc;
Protection - from your activities - shelter/fire construction/use; ground contact; rucksack carriage;
Adjustability – the ability to control the micro-climate within your clothing - venting or insulating;
Carriage - of items that support your activities – anything from a pencil to another garment
Concealment – if being low profile is a requirement – and this doesn’t necessarily mean disruptive pattern camouflage.


Many jackets of different fabrics/configuration/style may appear to initially fulfil the above until you explore your own specific use of one and discover both its advantages and limitations. Take the elements aspect for instance – would you want to cross country nav or hill-trek, in sunshine, with a pack-load - in a heavy wool smock? (or at anytime for that matter!). Conversely, would you want to sit around a base camp in cool/cold weather - in just a polycotton jacket?

Both those statements have in fact introduced not just the weather elements aspect but the personal activities level also! Remaining with the weather aspect though (and both the aforementioned materials) would you want a garment that remains wet for hours after your initial activities whilst you are sat around your base camp or overnight-ting in a (cool) shelter? (cool as in temp – not construction!). I learned that lesson with Ventile and wool back in the 80’s during a very wet Scottish ML course!) In my experience it is better to have a shell garment that sheds water not holds it – hello Goretex etc - but obviously that material is defo not resilient to quite a few BC relevant activities and so a point recently made by another member re not looking for a jacket that does absolutely everything to the letter, holds water, if you will pardon the pun. A few simple questions will inform your thought process:

When will you need full H20 proof – on the move – yes; under your tarp/in your shelter – infrequently.
When will you need full insulation – on the move – less likely; static – most likely.
When will you need the following attributes – comfort, robustness, durability, adjust-ability, spark resistance, carriage ability (pockets) and possibly discreet appearance - I would venture almost 24/7.

So simply by identifying the point(s) of having a jacket and asking when will I need those features a natural division is identified between H20proof, insulation and other attributes. Indirectly it has identified ‘the layering principle’. Without going into the technicalities of it (or the plethora of material types and claims within it) the layering principle does offer the most versatility of any clothing system.

Allied to intelligent selection of base/mid layer materials and garment styles and correct venting/insulating practice relevant to your activities it is difficult to beat.

In my experience the main challenge of the layering system is getting the bulk-to-function for each garment correct so that you achieve comfort without towing a hand cart behind. But to maintain focus on that BushCraft jacket itself (which I believe fits into the outer-layer (not the shell!) of the layering system, there is yet another fundamental element to it – fit! I have often watched in dismay people trying on (and purchasing) clothing, particularly mil surplus jackets and trousers which were simply too small, with the potential to restrict movement when under-layers are added leading to cold spots at pressure points especially at elbows; knees; seat; shoulders etc.

Shoulder width is probably the most critical dimension – especially if the jacket has a ‘set-in’ sleeve construction (a la M65 pattern) and if you (mistakenly) choose it exactly whilst wearing only thin layers beneath. As you subsequently have to add layers whilst in the great outdoors that arm seam moves onto the shoulder ‘plane’ tightening the arm hole and shortening the sleeve length= physical and thermal discomfort. Better to start with a jacket that is slightly too big and allow for those under layers, you can always roll cuffs and pull in waist and hem cords when under-layers are fewer. (or is it just about looking Gucci? :lmao:) Or you can purchase a jacket that doesn’t have the (mostly now outdated) set-in sleeve in favour of the kimono style (more on that in Part 2.)

Oh yes – and there is one other aspect (a major requirement perhaps in the view of some) which has to be factored in – value for money! I’m fortunate enough to have either been issued with or able to have afforded some of the most technically capable (claimed!) and expensive C&E over many decades and it has all been used up to and beyond its design capabilities. Much of it has been nice to own but rarely has it surpassed expectations in the field. There are alternatives.

I think that I have now more than scratched the surface re BC jacket requirements/specifications and more importantly pre-purchase thought process without yet identifying a specific recommendation. No doubt there will be those who wish to add to or challenge my opinions - which is a good thing before I do post the review so that this info and any comments can be absorbed and subsequently applied by anyone later viewing ‘the best’ BushCraft jacket review, which I will post tomorrow.

Enjoy! :D
 
Last edited:

Jaeger

Full Member
Dec 3, 2014
670
24
United Kingdom
Aye Up Sandbender - you've more or less nailed it,
I wrote the original on a mobile whilst out in the sticks and then transferred it.
As I spend most of my time out 'on-the-ground' and not on social networks I'm new to the 'etiquette' of posting things and thought that the informative content of a post in a compact format was more important than lay-out.
Thanks for your adjustment of the original post, I will try and apply it to the follow-on which based on Inky's comments may be of interest to some.
 
Nov 29, 2004
7,808
22
Scotland
Aye Up Sandbender - you've more or less nailed it,
I wrote the original on a mobile whilst out in the sticks and then transferred it.
As I spend most of my time out 'on-the-ground' and not on social networks I'm new to the 'etiquette' of posting things and thought that the informative content of a post in a compact format was more important than lay-out.
Thanks for your adjustment of the original post, I will try and apply it to the follow-on which based on Inky's comments may be of interest to some.

I thought it might be something along those lines.

If your mobile device has an offline email ability then writing your notes, journals and forum posts into the body of a draft email will usually take care of formatting issues, just cut and paste the text when you are happy with it.

Additionally you can then email yourself the finished draft when signal permits and will have a backup copy of your work that you can easily search for should you need it again.

:)
 

Jaeger

Full Member
Dec 3, 2014
670
24
United Kingdom
Thanks for that info Sandbender,

I've now found the preview post button (which I hadn't used before and yet strangely some of my previous posts were more or less paragraphed as I had originally written them)

After a few attempts I edited the imported Part 2 which I have now posted. It looks OK on my screen, I hope that it appears OK to others and we can get past the tech bit and into the reason for the post in the first place.

My/your last 'paragraph' :) in Part 1 was an invite to others to comment on the thought process (and experience) behind selecting a BC jacket of which I am sure there are many younger members and those new to outdoor living will benefit from - before they spend their cash!

Thanks again for the tech advice, I often use the mobi to note down issues with my C&E whilst out on the ground simply so that I don't forget to address them at a later date when I'm doing admin - good call re the e-mail idea too, I will give that a try.
 

NoName

Settler
Apr 9, 2012
522
4
If You want a 100% protection from the elements best stay at home ��
Just buy a swanndri ranger or a bush shirt and enjoy the rest.
Otherwise bison bushcraft shirt or charity shop go for wool and canvas and be content.
��
 

Tiley

Life Member
Oct 19, 2006
2,364
374
60
Gloucestershire
I don't believe that there is or ever can be one single 'best jacket' for bushcraft. Conditions very, work rates vary and levels of fitness vary from individual to individual, making it well nigh impossible to dub one jacket as the best.

There are several that I use regularly but their selection will depend on the season, the weather and what I'm going to do on that particular outing. If it was ever possible to hybridise my Bison Bushcraft single Ventile, Loden smock and Swedish Army Goretex into one viable jacket, I'd go for it. Sadly, that won't be possible in my lifetime so I am left with that tricky decision before each trip out to the woods or the wilds!
 

WoodGnome

Tenderfoot
Mar 4, 2015
67
1
Germany/Northern Ireland
While I have to agree that there probably won't be THE ONE (personal taste alone excludes that), I think there's at least a type of jacket that comes pretty close to meeting every single demand... at least if you combine it with a second layer like a fleece jacket for example...

BEHOLD! THE JACKET:

COM1095HW0.jpg


http://store.drizabone.com.au/bushman-brown

Driza-Bone Bushman, traditional oilskin. Waterproof, windproof, durable and immune to fire (to some point... sparks definitely), combined with a fleece jacket: hard to beat. Meeting all demands IS pricey though...
 
Last edited:

BCUK Shop

We have a a number of knives, T-Shirts and other items for sale.

SHOP HERE