Tarp seams

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keen-edge

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Nov 14, 2009
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Hi fellas what's the best seam to use for joining the two halves of canvas together to form the ridge seam
any help would be cool want to have a go at making one so if there is anyone that's made one on a standard sewing machine and pics of tarp would be great fellas ATB Phil
 

John Fenna

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A Lap-Fell seam would be my first choice - worth reinforcing with a light webbing as well =.
Easy enough to sew with a domestic machine if you are using a light tarp fabric, BUT having room to support the weight of the fabric will be crucial to getting the fabric to feed easily.
 
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keen-edge

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Nov 14, 2009
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A Lap-Fell seam would be my first choice - worth reinforcing with a light webbing as well =.
Easy enough to sew with a domestic machine if you are using a light tarp fabric, BUT having room to support the weight of the fabric will be crucial to getting the fabric to feed easily.
cheers fella would you have any close photos of how the tie outs are attached and reinforced ATB Phil
 

John Fenna

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Not a great photo...
Sew the reinforcing to the fabric, roll your hem (around a webbing reinforcing if you like), sew the webbing tie outs to the reinforcing patch at right angles from the hem or to the point at corners from as deep as possible... some like to have the tie out tape both sides of the tarp (inside and outside) but I am happy enough just to sew the tie out to the outside


P4070008.JPG
 
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C_Claycomb

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up to four layers of canvas, AND webbing? I think that might be a bit much for most domestic machines. Definitely worth trying out before committing to it.

Also, on light fabrics many people do not reinforce the seam with webbing, they use a French/flat felled hybrid.
DIYGS-Winter-Tarp-lowres.jpg
 
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Toddy

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I prefer the felled French seam for lightweight fabrics like ripstop nylon.
If you really do want to fit ties in, then it's possible to attach a folded piece before the felling is done. Even if you have to stitch that piece by hand it's still sound.
Not a bad idea to use some seam sealant in there too, and if you can proof the tapes and let them dry, before you stitch them in, then they'll not encourage water to wick into the seam.
 
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John Fenna

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I think that you underestimate the power of a domestic machine :)
Six layers of East European poncho canvas and two of light webbing going through an Aldi sewing machine with no effort at all.... and photos of my light canvas tarp's side tie outs for the OP.
I like to use reinforcing on all seams...just to be sure...
I do not carry my gear far so the extra weight is not an issue but I do go out in some tough conditions:)
P2020004.JPG P2020005.JPG P2020006.JPG P2020007.JPG P2020008.JPG
 

keen-edge

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Nov 14, 2009
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I think that you underestimate the power of a domestic machine :)
Six layers of East European poncho canvas and two of light webbing going through an Aldi sewing machine with no effort at all.... and photos of my light canvas tarp's side tie outs for the OP.
I like to use reinforcing on all seams...just to be sure...
I do not carry my gear far so the extra weight is not an issue but I do go out in some tough conditions:)
View attachment 56918 View attachment 56919 View attachment 56920 View attachment 56921 View attachment 56922
That's fantastic and most helpful fella thank you very much your sewing looks spot on to did you add webbing to ridge seam to thank you ATB Phil
 

keen-edge

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Nov 14, 2009
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Not a great photo...
Sew the reinforcing to the fabric, roll your hem (around a webbing reinforcing if you like), sew the webbing tie outs to the reinforcing patch at right angles from the hem or to the point at corners from as deep as possible... some like to have the tie out tape both sides of the tarp (inside and outside) but I am happy enough just to sew the tie out to the outside


View attachment 56917
The tarp looks great what oz it the canvas your using I ordered a meter of a 7oz canvas to try cheers do you have a photo of how you stitched the corner tie out as I bet the material the thicker at this point like the ridge seam cheers
 
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C_Claycomb

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I think that you underestimate the power of a domestic machine :)
....

Well, I know that my old Toyota Atlantis will not comfortably sew through two layers of webbing and two of 500d Cordura with a No100 needle and thread appropriate to the task. I have to go down to Tex35/Sew All and a No70 needle. This despite it being sold to me as capable, and advertised in various places as capable, and it being an older machine, which are usually thought of as more solid and capable than many modern domestic machines.

My mum's Elna, also older and heavy, struggled going through two layers of regular nylon webbing.
 

Toddy

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My modern machines won't tackle it. My son has an old Merritt one that will though and my ancient Jones one, which is a right royal pain to adjust tension and keep it there, will tackle pretty much anything. It happily sews multi layered straps for bags and cameras. I used to make huge stunt kites with it.

Tbh, I'm still inclined to hand stitch on tapes, I use a smaller version of a sailmaker's palm to get through the layers at times though. I feel it's easier to be accurate that way.

M
 

John Fenna

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That says a lot for the Aldi machine then! :)
My light weight canvas tarp is actually pillow case lining cotton cambric (light, strong and windproof) that I have proofed with wax on the seams and Fabsil elsewhere - it has kept out water even when I have brushed against the inside.... it has stood up well to all sorts of weather including named storms and sunny (UV rich) summer weather for something like 5 years so far and is comparatively quiet in the rain - compared to nylon!
In the past I have also made tarps from 4oz PU proofed nylon and have done major adjustments to silnylon tarps as well as making canoe sails from Sil-nylon rip stop.
None presented any problems for my domestic machines.
My big issues with sewing tarps has always been getting the fabric to feed evenly - the weight of the fabric has to be well supported either side of the feed dogs or gravity is your enemy!
Corners
P2020001.JPG P2020002.JPG P2020003.JPG P2020004 (1).JPG
I did add webbing to the ridge - but as an afterthought on this one - and to make the tie outs just extended the webbing and made an integral loop in the end - the photos
P2020001 (1).JPG P2020001 (1).JPG P2020002 (1).JPG P2020003 (1).JPG P2020004 (2).JPG
not great shots.... note the internal hanging point...
 

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keen-edge

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That says a lot for the Aldi machine then! :)
My light weight canvas tarp is actually pillow case lining cotton cambric (light, strong and windproof) that I have proofed with wax on the seams and Fabsil elsewhere - it has kept out water even when I have brushed against the inside.... it has stood up well to all sorts of weather including named storms and sunny (UV rich) summer weather for something like 5 years so far and is comparatively quiet in the rain - compared to nylon!
In the past I have also made tarps from 4oz PU proofed nylon and have done major adjustments to silnylon tarps as well as making canoe sails from Sil-nylon rip stop.
None presented any problems for my domestic machines.
My big issues with sewing tarps has always been getting the fabric to feed evenly - the weight of the fabric has to be well supported either side of the feed dogs or gravity is your enemy!
Corners
View attachment 56923 View attachment 56924 View attachment 56925 View attachment 56926
I did add webbing to the ridge - but as an afterthought on this one - and to make the tie outs just extended the webbing and made an integral loop in the end - the photos
View attachment 56927 View attachment 56927 View attachment 56928 View attachment 56929 View attachment 56931
not great shots.... note the internal hanging point...
That's fantastic my friend and most helpful my machine is a old Singer 328k its grey in colour I have tried sewing through 8 layers of denim and as no problem doing that I was using a size 18 needle so I am sure it will work on making a tarp I like the idea of the webbing on ridge seam but think on the tie outs around the tarp I will only put a 6 inch length were the tie outs are going rather than go all the way round with it you think that will work thank you so much for you help and for the wonderful photos ATB Phil
 

Toddy

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The Singer 328K was made in the Singer factory in Scotland in the early 60's. They're very sound and very able machines from what I know of them.
So long as you make sure it's cleaned and oiled, and the electrics don't fry, it'll do very well for tarps and the like. If I recall correctly that model takes cams to allow for decorative (zigzag stitches, etc.,) and it can be used as a treadle machine too if you thread a belt through the channel at the hand wheel.
 
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John Fenna

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I think my webbing is polyester - and short lengths just to support the tie outs, although not spreading the load as much as full length webbing, should help.
 
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keen-edge

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Nov 14, 2009
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The Singer 328K was made in the Singer factory in Scotland in the early 60's. They're very sound and very able machines from what I know of them.
So long as you make sure it's cleaned and oiled, and the electrics don't fry, it'll do very well for tarps and the like. If I recall correctly that model takes cams to allow for decorative (zigzag stitches, etc.,) and it can be used as a treadle machine too if you thread a belt through the channel at the hand wheel.
cheers I got it for £20.00 from a secondhand shop it was quit clean and paint
work still good I have ordered some singer oil it runs very well and stitching is great on both sides there is like a tapping sound coming from were them discs go no discs came with it but the straight stitching is sound been looking on the bay for the discs as looking on sites you can get discs to do all sorts of stitches cable seems fine to maybe it was just used now and again it came with two bobbins and the case ATB Phil
 

Toddy

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Bargain :D
There's most likely a Servicing Manual (different from a User's or Owner's Manual) online, and bound to be some discussion somewhere too about odd noises. Might well be worth a look ?
The only other stitch that you're likely to use would be a zigzag one. If closely stitched that makes bar tacks to re-inforce where there's likely to be a lot of pull, and used with normal spacing it'll happily seal raw edges and stop fraying.
Clean out the feed dogs fairly often, and mind to check the needle's neither bent not blunt. They can be sharpened just using the little strawberry sand bag on pincushions. Best to use a new needle, but for a lot of folks that's not always an available option.

Menfolks seem to prefer calling a sewing machine a 'thread injection power tool' :) :rolleyes:
 

keen-edge

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Nov 14, 2009
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just to let you all know my tarp is coming on really good I am waiting on my tie out tape to come but its looking good for my first go not sure how to put photos on but sure you will like it ATB Phil
 

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