Andy, they are a lot easier to carve than they look. All you need is a good sharp carving knife. Preferably one with a straight edge and sheepfoot or wharncliffe style blade. I would not use a pocket knife for this unless you've put a lot of work into reprofiling the edge.
The thinner the blade, the easier it is to carve with. The wood is 1" by 1".
Any chance of a step-by-step on them? I have tried to do similar things and always have trouble figuring out the faces
Thanks Hoodoo, I'll have a look around see if I can get that issue. Do you use a straight blade or is a curved edge better (shape not grind)? I don't really know what the knife types mentioned earlier in the thread are lol
Thanks Hoodoo, I'll have a look around see if I can get that issue. Do you use a straight blade or is a curved edge better (shape not grind)? I don't really know what the knife types mentioned earlier in the thread are lol
Next meet I'm going to make a broom! The mess you guys make from carving jees!
Here's the shape I prefer for detail carving. The thinner the blade, the better. I can carve walnut all day long with any of these blades with nothing but stropping occasionally. Don't put a secondary bevel on these or you will have a long day of carving and a poor one to boot. If the steel is a bit thick, though, you can convex the edge to smooth it. The edges should be stropped ultra smooth.
The Carving Jack is ultra expensive but handy for the field because it's a folder and you can carry it in a belt sheath. Some of the other blades are handy as well. I love the chisel blade for doing balls in cages.