storm kettle aluminium repair

[Fluxus]

Hi there, I have a couple of 1 litre storm kettles which get weekly use and are over 4 years old. One of them has developed a bit of a leak at the base where the metal is rolled over. It is worst when heated up which is pretty dire as the water drips into the base and puts out the fire!!!

Just wondering if anyone here has actually successfully repaired this sort of problem in a storm kettle or if anyone works with aluminium welding / brazing and knows how to do it?

The folks at http://www.thestormkettleshop.com didn't have a definitive answer but were so nice and helpful that I bought a replacement from them anyway. I need a few kettles for events so would still like to repair this one.

I've looked at the epoxy aluminium putties on the net but am not sure about safety in contact with both heat and drinking water.
Very grateful for any advice.

 

[Col_M]

It should be straight forward 2 minute job for anyone who has the kit to MIG or TIG weld aluminium, just needs a bead over the hole to seal it up.

I'm not a welder myself but having studied mech engineering I know it's an easy job, it's not like you need to x-ray it or anything

 

[spandit]

Have a look at Lumiweld

 

[Shewie]

JBWeld will probably be up to the job

 

[Springheeljack1]

Sounds daft but a little bit of Milliputty may work as a quick fix until you get it welded, I don't know how well it would put up with sustained fire, but it should be fine in the short term.

 

[IanM]

Try putting one egg white in the water, only half full, shake it up and then boil for ten minutes. It worked on my aluminium car radiator many years ago fixed it for years. Cheap and worth trying.

 

[Fluxus]

Thanks all, I knew I'd get some answers here
I'll try Milliput while I look around for the tig / mig welding option.
Is it something a car bodyshop would have?
cheers
Richard

 

[spandit]

The stuff I mentioned is an aluminium solder - used it on my Kelly Kettle that leaked too. You need to melt it with a blowtorch & then brush through it with a stainless brush to break the oxide layer - it then flows like normal plumbers solder