Squaring the back side of a Mora for Firesteel

[chem_doc]

I just got a stainless Mora and it's tough getting a decent spark from a Firesteel using the back of the blade with it.

I have used a file and Japanese wetstones to square up my carbon steel Mora, but is this the best way to do it? Any tips?

Thanks,

Doc

 

[RobG]

Best tip I have is to try the spine close to the tip of the knife.

I've had decent luck throwing sparks there.

 

[chem_doc]

Best tip I have is to try the spine close to the tip of the knife.

I've had decent luck throwing sparks there.

That's what I normally use on my Carbon Steel Mora. The Stainless Mora doesn't work so well at that. I think that the spine is a little rounded....

 

[spamel]

A diamond file, stones, wet and dry on a hard piece of flat board, whatever does it best really. A sharp edge will work best, as in a sharp right angle or similar. Don't use the blade edge itself, I don't expect you to, but it's more for the benefit if anybody new to the game!

 

[Chainsaw]

I gave my stainless clipper a wee tickle with a bench grinder near the handle, sparks great now. Doesn't need more than a second or two to get an edge, just don't let it heat up at all.

Cheers,

Alan

 

[chem_doc]

I gave my stainless clipper a wee tickle with a bench grinder near the handle, sparks great now. Doesn't need more than a second or two to get an edge, just don't let it heat up at all.

Cheers,

Alan

Ah, if only I had a bench grinder. I can just see She-who-must-be-obeyed's face when I say to her, "Honey... I need a bench grinder so that I can, amongst other things, put a square edge on the back of my knife so that I can strike sparks from my firesteel."

I'm all for power tools, but I'm choosing my battles. I'd rather have a compound miter saw. It'd take a while for me to grind off a finger (says he who's had a finger in a bench grinder back in the day). I could take off a whole limb rather quickly with one of these.

 

[TheGreenMan]

Hey Doc,

You need what I understand is called a ‘mill file’ in the US. Personally, I would buy a ‘*******’, a ‘second cut’ and a ‘smooth’, just to cover all the bases. The key to success is to have a sharp edge on the spine of the knife, how you get there is up to you, but metal workers files seem to be the easiest way.

Incidentally, if you buy ‘single cut’ files they will only remove metal on the forward stroke, and if you buy ‘double cut’ they will remove metal both in the forward and backward stroke. If you elect to use ‘single cut’ files you need to lift the file at the end of each forward stoke, if you want to avoid blunting the file.

If you would like to refine the filed, square edge, even further the Japanese waterstones would do that job very well.

Cheers,
Paul.

 

[chem_doc]

Hey Doc,

You need what I understand is called a ‘mill file’ in the US. Personally, I would buy a ‘*******’, a ‘second cut’ and a ‘smooth’, just to cover all the bases. The key to success is to have a sharp edge on the spine of the knife, how you get there is up to you, but metal workers files seem to be the easiest way.

Incidentally, if you buy ‘single cut’ files they will only remove metal on the forward stroke, and if you buy ‘double cut’ they will remove metal both in the forward and backward stroke. If you elect to use ‘single cut’ files you need to lift the file at the end of each forward stoke, if you want to avoid blunting the file.

If you would like to refine the filed, square edge, even further the Japanese waterstones would do that job very well.

Cheers,
Paul.

Thanks for the info. I'll swing by Lowes on my way home.

And I've become addicted to the shiny edges I get after the 8000 grit waterstone and stropping. In my world, the rough edge post-filing will *need to be* refined.

 

[TheGreenMan]

Thanks for the info...

You're welcome.

... And I've become addicted to the shiny edges I get after the 8000 grit waterstone and stropping...

Quite understandable

...In my world, the rough edge post-filing will *need to be* refined. ...

Excellent, success is a great stimulant to taking the next step toward perfection

Cheers,
Paul.

 

[Chainsaw]

You really should have a bench grinder to sharpen all your gardening tools, only about $40 from lowes or home depot and about £20 here in the UK. You know a garage full of power tools is the future Buy it, sneak it into the garage and she'll never know (welcome to the darkside!)

Cheers,

Alan

 

[Martyn]

You really should have a bench grinder to sharpen all your gardening tools, only about $40 from lowes or home depot and about £20 here in the UK. You know a garage full of power tools is the future Buy it, sneak it into the garage and she'll never know (welcome to the darkside!)

Cheers,

Alan

Ditto.

It's a battle worth choosing. Useful little tools for all sorts. A cheap one from B&Q or US equivalent is only £20 or so as said above.

I used mine to square the spine on my sebenza and it now throws fantastic sparks. A few gentle passes is all that is needed.

 

[Martyn]

Thanks for the info. I'll swing by Lowes on my way home.

And I've become addicted to the shiny edges I get after the 8000 grit waterstone and stropping. In my world, the rough edge post-filing will *need to be* refined.

For throwing sparks, a square 90deg edge is perfect and a little rough is good too.

My sebenza after grinding...

 

[LazySod]

Postie just delivered my stainless Clipper (my first ever knife). tried it out on a piece of paper and like it said in the ad, it's ready to use straight from the box.......v.sharp.

Then tried the back edge on my firesteel, v.disapointing, four strikes = one tiny spark.

And just to prove that some newbies use the search button, found this thread.

If anyone wants me, i'll be in the garage.