Silky blade

Fryer

Member
Dec 12, 2023
24
2
40
Norfolk
Getting a silky gomboy 240 when funds allow. For an all rounder, am I better off with the standard black one with the 240-10 medium blade, or is the 240-8 course curved blade the better choice? I know the gomboy outback has the 240-8 curved blade. Although it is more money than the medium black one.

Anyone used both?
 

Moondog55

Forager
Sep 17, 2023
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72
Geelong Australia
Any Silky brand saw is worth the money.
Although mine is the Sukoi 420 as I had a need for a bigger blade for pruning purposes. I find the curved blades work very well and bigger blades cut better and faster.
I also have the Yoki slashing blade and that is a real beast and can be sharpened to a razor edge for soft grasses etc:
Didn't you ask the same question last year??
 
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Fryer

Member
Dec 12, 2023
24
2
40
Norfolk
Any Silky brand saw is worth the money.
Although mine is the Sukoi 420 as I had a need for a bigger blade for pruning purposes. I find the curved blades work very well and bigger blades cut better and faster.
I also have the Yoki slashing blade and that is a real beast and can be sharpened to a razor edge for soft grasses etc:
Didn't you ask the same question last year??
No me no
 

GNJC

Forager
Jul 10, 2005
167
121
Carms / Sir Gar
I have several of the dubiously named 'Silky Big Boy'... :rolleyes: and have three different types of blade for use with seasoned wood / timber and greenwood about the place. If you are going to be using yours in the field, the '8' is unquestionably the best choice. But I can't advise on blade curve, since all of mine have a rather ironically straight cutting edge.
 

Nice65

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Apr 16, 2009
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W.Sussex
Regarding curved or straight, the curved cut better because the teeth towards the tip are dragged harder into the wood at the end of the stroke. They are ideal for cutting anything not on the ground. If you cut a log with one on the ground, it’ll dig in. The straight edge Silkys tend to have a lock that has 2 blade positions to make flat cutting more comfortable and efficient.

I have a curved Zubat and a BigBoy. Much prefer the fixed blade Zubat.
 

Fryer

Member
Dec 12, 2023
24
2
40
Norfolk
I have several of the dubiously named 'Silky Big Boy'... :rolleyes: and have three different types of blade for use with seasoned wood / timber and greenwood about the place. If you are going to be using yours in the field, the '8' is unquestionably the best choice. But I can't advise on blade curve, since all of mine have a rather ironically straight cutting edge.
Cheers. It's more about the medium (10) or course (8) rather than straight or curve. As an all rounder I think I'll go for the medoum6as it's a mix of greed/dead, hard/soft wood.
 

Nice65

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Apr 16, 2009
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W.Sussex
Cheers. It's more about the medium (10) or course (8) rather than straight or curve. As an all rounder I think I'll go for the medoum6as it's a mix of greed/dead, hard/soft wood.

Medium definitely. Silky blades are thin and as you know, only cut on the pull. Bigger teeth are more prone to catching, and a mate of mine snapped my BigBoy blade by getting a bit over zealous with his cutting. Medium also leave a lovely clean cut if that’s what you need, such as green pruning jobs.
 
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GNJC

Forager
Jul 10, 2005
167
121
Carms / Sir Gar
Medium definitely. Silky blades are thin and as you know, only cut on the pull. Bigger teeth are more prone to catching, and a mate of mine snapped my BigBoy blade by getting a bit over zealous with his cutting. Medium also leave a lovely clean cut if that’s what you need, such as green pruning jobs.
Hmm... I have had lots of blades eventually snap, but they last quite a long while*. If they are 'catching', it could be because too much downward pressure is being applied.

The vast majority of what I cut is hazel, hawthorn, blackthorn and, probably most of all now, ash - in varying states of dieback, from sound to punk. Each requires a slightly different style of cutting and a standard '8' blade has proven best for all of these woods.

But that's just my own experience, different tools suit different people; but I simply don't get on with more saw-teeth on the greenwoods I have mentioned.


*Snapped blades always - for me - go at the base; then they are then fine as short-saws with some teeth snapped off and tape around the bottom. When finally no good for cutting, I reforge them for whatever other purpose.
 

Nice65

Brilliant!
Apr 16, 2009
6,892
3,313
W.Sussex
Hmm... I have had lots of blades eventually snap, but they last quite a long while*. If they are 'catching', it could be because too much downward pressure is being applied.

The vast majority of what I cut is hazel, hawthorn, blackthorn and, probably most of all now, ash - in varying states of dieback, from sound to punk. Each requires a slightly different style of cutting and a standard '8' blade has proven best for all of these woods.

But that's just my own experience, different tools suit different people; but I simply don't get on with more saw-teeth on the greenwoods I have mentioned.


*Snapped blades always - for me - go at the base; then they are then fine as short-saws with some teeth snapped off and tape around the bottom. When finally no good for cutting, I reforge them for whatever other purpose.
Silky BigBoy = long thin blade capable of cutting quite big wood. Thus it needs a bit of care. But with someone inexperienced like my mate, who is actually a very accoplished joiner, this resulted in excitement and frenetic sawing towards the end of the cut. The wood being cut then pinched the blade. An expensive mistake.

Personally, the Zubat is perfect. And it has thicker blade stock for arb applications.
 

GNJC

Forager
Jul 10, 2005
167
121
Carms / Sir Gar
Silky BigBoy = long thin blade capable of cutting quite big wood. Thus it needs a bit of care. But with someone inexperienced like my mate, who is actually a very accoplished joiner, this resulted in excitement and frenetic sawing towards the end of the cut. The wood being cut then pinched the blade. An expensive mistake.

Personally, the Zubat is perfect. And it has thicker blade stock for arb applications.
Yep, they aren't cheap, it's a quick learning curve...
 

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