Short bow - Long arrows?

[Matt_1992]

Hey everyone, I was unsure on where to post this question after having a scan 'round the website so I thought this section would be best. I've recently made a 54 inch (nock to nock) ash flat bow with 47 inch bend. The draw length of the bow is at 25 - 27 inches. I only have 30 inch arrows however and the arrows tend to have a mind of their own somewhat, is this due to the extra length hanging of the bow (essentially there is about 3 - 5 inches of arrow not resting on the arrow rest)?

So my main question is this; Would the short bow perform better with 27 inch arrows compared to 30 inch arrows? I'm currently using 30 inch wooden arrows, probably made for a 35 - 40 pound bow.

The short bow has a draw weight of about 40 pounds give or take a few.

Thanks for any advice in advance!

Matt.

 

[Cromm]

Your arrows will be spined to 28in so any thing you take off them after 28in will add about 5lb. If you can I would take off an inch at a time and shoot one and see were they start to shoot right for you, it's not hard to do but can be a pain but that way you can match the arrows to the bow.

 

[Hagrid]

if your bow has a draw length of 27 inches then I wouldn't use any arrow longer than 28 inches, these are a standard size so you should be able to buy these without any difficulty.

 

[Matt_1992]

Thanks for the quick replies! Very helpful. Though, the arrows I brought have a steel head on them and I've no idea how to remove them without having wood 'stuck' inside of them. Without being able to do this I can't reduce the arrows . Also, I'm new to this hobby. How does arrow spine effect the performance of the shot?

Cheers! I appreciate your time

Matt.

 

[mountainm]

Thanks for the quick replies! Very helpful. Though, the arrows I brought have a steel head on them and I've no idea how to remove them without having wood 'stuck' inside of them. Without being able to do this I can't reduce the arrows . Also, I'm new to this hobby. How does arrow spine effect the performance of the shot?

Cheers! I appreciate your time

Matt.

Boil the tips in water - if they're glued with epoxy it will melt

 

[Matt_1992]

Oh! clever, I'll try that. Thanks for the advice!

Matt.

 

[yarrow]

What spine weight are your arrows? For a 35lb bow you need arrows matched to that weight. Your arrows going all over the place will have very little to do with length and everything to do with spine weight of the shafts. Arrows have to flex around the bow handle when you release the string, so a very high draw weight bow will need equally stiff arrows, light bow less stiff. Check out this film to get your head around the archers paradox. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96KGWC0PB6s Matching a set of arrows to a bow is everything when it comes to accuracy.

 

[Matt_1992]

Oh right, fair enough that's understandable. I take it higher spine arrows also come more expensive? And I've no idea the spine of these arrows, they where simple target arrows from the net for £10 (Quant 5).

Any idea where I could get relatively cheap wooden arrows with a 35 - 40 spine? :S

 

[dwardo]

Also check your string is tracking the handle properly and that the handle is thin enough.

 

[Matt_1992]

I assume you mean ensuring the string is centered? so that is runs down the center of the whole bow from nock to nock? And I've made the handle thin and thick in order to make it more center shot. I think it is probably the arrows spine considering the price and feel of them, made of pine I believe. They shoot well with my 30 pound self-bow which is a 28 - 30 inch draw length but not so well with the short bow, although it is 40 pounds. I assume the arrows are 20 - 25 or 25 - 30 pounds in spine.

 

[yarrow]

Merlin archery, the longbow shop, ebay, flybow. A quick google around should find you what you want. Just remember that the draw weight of the bow tells you what spine to look for in arrows. I always use 11/32 but recently tried some of Dwardos 5/16 and they worked great, for a light bow like you described I would go for 5/16, this is the diameter of the shaft. So to recap - you have the length of the shaft, the diameter of the shaft and the spine weight of the shaft (how flexible the shaft is) these are the things to consider when picking arrows. Of these three spine weight is crucial to accuracy. How long the shaft is has relevance to your draw length and that of the bow coupled with the shooting characteristics of that particular bow. I could expand but don't want to bore you.

 

[Matt_1992]

You are far from boring me! I've been stifling through Google all morning simply looking for 27 - 28 inch arrows without much consideration for anything else other than length and price. Thank you for the information, is there any wood the arrows should be made from in particular by any chance?

Thanks,

Matt.

 

[yarrow]

Some guys like Port Orford Cedar, some compressed pine. Ash shafts are also very good, then there is bamboo. You could even harvest some Hazel and dry it to make your own shafts.

 

[Matt_1992]

Just checked out the sites you mentioned, are all arrows so expensive? (£5 per arrow range). I'd like to make my own arrows, but after getting the kit for making bows It'll be a while until I can get the kit for making arrows too sadly.

 

[Big Stu 12]

I ve just brought 12 of these with 3" sheild fletcings, and been using them with no problem at all

http://www.cbarchery.co.uk/epages/6...ucts/"PREM POC ARWS 4"" X 12 - 11/32[1]-0005"

 

[dwardo]

Just checked out the sites you mentioned, are all arrows so expensive? (£5 per arrow range). I'd like to make my own arrows, but after getting the kit for making bows It'll be a while until I can get the kit for making arrows too sadly.

PO Cedar shaft spined decent quality is about £1.90, field point about 25p, fletch about 50p? nock 20p then someone with a jig to fit the fletch straight and even and then you have to apply a finish to the arrow so is doesn't suck up moisture and change spine/rot.

Doesn't take long to get expensive.

 

[Big Stu 12]

PO Cedar shaft spined decent quality is about £1.90, field point about 25p, fletch about 50p? nock 20p then someone with a jig to fit the fletch straight and even and then you have to apply a finish to the arrow so is doesn't suck up moisture and change spine/rot.

Doesn't take long to get expensive.

What finish do you use dwardo... just in case I want to make some

 

[Matt_1992]

Seems I'll have to stop being selective then. Though, I tend to break the arrows I get just from target practice, missing etc. How can you make a target area that wont shatter your arrows? currently using cardboard which is great! but nothing behind it or to the sides except for mud and rocks.

Cheers,

Matt.

 

[dwardo]

What finish do you use dwardo... just in case I want to make some

I have used linseed, thinned polly varnish and Tru-oil. These days is mostly Tru-oil. Much easier and cleaner to apply.

Seems I'll have to stop being selective then. Though, I tend to break the arrows I get just from target practice, missing etc. How can you make a target area that wont shatter your arrows? currently using cardboard which is great! but nothing behind it or to the sides except for mud and rocks.

Cheers,

Matt.

You need a target that will slow the arrow rather than stopping it dead. Small bail of straw would be good providing you keep it dry.
I use a cardboard box stuffed with old clothing and sheets, then wrapped in packaging film. But I only tend to shoot at close range to break in a new bow and test the arrow flight at home. Out in the woods its straw.
Proper targets are great but they are not cheap.

Arrow making is like most things in the sport, if you start to invest in arrow jigs and string making tools etc then you start to save money in the long run but initially it is expensive. Just be sure to make a good target as that will save you having to buy new arrows.

 

[Matt_1992]

Brilliant, cheers for all the quick advice everyone it was very helpful!

Matt.