Sharpening steels

Harvestman

Bushcrafter through and through
May 11, 2007
8,656
26
55
Pontypool, Wales, Uk
More of a curiosity question than anything else. I was sharpening my kitchen knives using a sharpening steel the other day, when I wondered why they don't seem to get mentioned much for bushcraft knives. Kitchen knives seem to get used with them a lot, and they need to be kept very sharp all of the time. I'm sure it must be possible to get small ones that would be portable at minimal weight for bushcraft use.

So why do we always insist on stones for sharpening our bushy knives then? A steel seems quicker and easier.
 

John Fenna

Lifetime Member & Maker
Oct 7, 2006
23,276
3,068
67
Pembrokeshire
I use a butchers steel a lot. I even keep one on our basecamp site. I have a folding one for travel use.
Once you learn how to use them well, then they are very useful for maintaining an edge (along with a strop) but for the best edges I use diamond hones and wetanddry.
 

Hibrion

Maker
Jan 11, 2012
1,230
8
Ireland
I use a reasonably fine F. Dick steel in the kitchen and on some of my flat and hollow ground knives. The steel is large and heavy, which is no problem in the kitchen, but I wouldn't want to carry it with me on a trip.

When it comes to scandi ground knives I use a leather strop to keep them sharp as I find it is better suited to the task. At home I use a large, wooden backed strop, but this is also too large to carry into the field. Depending on how dull the blade has got I will use a strop loaded with compound or just go straight to a plain leather strop. I have been meaning to make a pocket strop from scraps for a while now, but havn't gotten round to it.

When I'm out and about I keep my knives sharp by using the back of my belt and the leg of my jeans. A few quick passes will bring it back to hair popping.

Sharpening stones are for sharpening, rather than honing, and don't get used all that often. I carry a small DC3 just incase I damage the edge of my axe or knife in the field, but it doesn't get used often. In general, steels tend to be relatively fine and are more for quickly honing a knife than sharpening it.
I have thought about getting one of those small, retractable steels for use in the field, but what I'm doing works fine now so it would just be a waste of money.

I guess they are not that popular since they are large, they aren't well suited to honing the popular scandi grind, and decent examples tend to be expensive. Whether you use a strop, a steel, or both, you will still need a decent set of stones at some stage. I use water stones and diamond stones, depending on the steel I'm sharpening.
 
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crosslandkelly

Full Member
Jun 9, 2009
26,445
2,366
67
North West London
Nice. That is exactly the sort of thing that I was thinking of. Why aren't those more popular? There must be drawbacks, unless it is just a fashion thing.

I think the convex grind on the Opinel, lends itself to using a steel, much like a double bevelled chefs or butchers knife. There is more accuracy needed to sharpen a single bevel, scandi, simply to avoid the secondary bevel. Just my opinion, I'm sure an expert will correct me if I'm wrong. :)
 

Harvestman

Bushcrafter through and through
May 11, 2007
8,656
26
55
Pontypool, Wales, Uk
I use a reasonably fine F. Dick steel in the kitchen and on some of my flat and hollow ground knives. The steel is large and heavy, which is no problem in the kitchen, but I wouldn't want to carry it with me on a trip.

When it comes to scandi ground knives I use a leather strop to keep them sharp as I find it is better suited to the task. At home I use a large, wooden backed strop, but this is also too large to carry into the field. Depending on how dull the blade has got I will use a strop loaded with compound or just go straight to a plain leather strop. I have been meaning to make a pocket strop from scraps for a while now, but havn't gotten round to it.

When I'm out and about I keep my knives sharp by using the back of my belt and the leg of my jeans. A few quick passes will bring it back to hair popping.

Sharpening stones are for sharpening, rather than honing, and don't get used all that often. I carry a small DC3 just incase I damage the edge of my axe or knife in the field, but it doesn't get used often. In general, steels tend to be relatively fine and are more for quickly honing a knife than sharpening it.
I have thought about getting one of those small, retractable steels for use in the field, but what I'm doing works fine now so it would just be a waste of money.

I guess they are not that popular since they are large, they aren't well suited to honing the popular scandi grind, and decent examples tend to be expensive. Whether you use a strop, a steel, or both, you will still need a decent set of stones at some stage. I use water stones and diamond stones, depending on the steel I'm sharpening.

I think the convex grind on the Opinel, lends itself to using a steel, much like a double bevelled chefs or butchers knife. There is more accuracy needed to sharpen a single bevel, scandi, simply to avoid the secondary bevel. Just my opinion, I'm sure an expert will correct me if I'm wrong. :)
Good, helpful answers. Thank you.
 

Dave-the-rave

Settler
Feb 14, 2013
638
1
minsk
I use one a lot. They keep a sharp knife sharp which is why butchers use them. I use the small Opinel one as well. Can't fault mine but they don't have a guard so easy to cut the fingers is used without care. Ideal for small knives when out and about.
 

Samon

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 24, 2011
3,970
44
Britannia!
I have one of those little sharpening steels and its nothing impressive. For the size you're much better off with a diamond rod.

However, when using a full size steel on kitchen knives or flat beveled knives I find them decent.

I see a sharpening steel more as a metal strop than an actual sherpening device. It removes or blends in mini nicks and dents. With my tool box knife (a more classic) I use one of my steels as its edge dinks easily and with moderate pressure and a backwards stroppingmotion it can push and pull it all back in place faster and easier than a stone.

When I first bought a sharpening steel I was so unimpressed though, and it did take a lot of time to get used to it and even longer to appreciate it. What I have learned is it works best on full flat and flat bevelled edges.
 
Jul 30, 2012
3,570
224
westmidlands
IMG_20141118_161114.jpgThe file type are good for taking off material if you have the right one, but if they are the file type (tungsten carbide) they do leave a rough edge, and that's not good for edge cohesion, and really they are the same as a round fine rat tail file. The round ones would be no good on a scandi, but a flat super fine rat tail file is, although they seem to brake!


Edit:

A half moon a flat and a round rat tail file, the half moon is quite good, as it does both. Quick polish and your done
 
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