Sharpening scotch eye augers

[tombear]

I thought I'd ask now before I blunt them but what is the best practice regarding sharpening augers?

I've been lucky enough to pick up two unused but old Sheffield made scotch eye augers a 8 " long 1" dia one for £2.75 off of that excellent chap on eBay and a 24" by 1 1/2" job off of my favourite surplus stall on Burnley flea for £4.

Incidentally Footprint still make the large sort should anyone be planning some fence making et al but the prices are rather shocking, the 1.5 inch I found is the best part of 80 quid now! Mind you no doubt you get what you pays for!

Incidentaly I will be asking the stall holder if he has more as he often gets job lots.

Cheers

Tom

 

[Dave Budd]

it's a lot easier to show than try to describe, but here goes. It also depends of the tip pattern of the bit, a scotch eyed auger only described the fact that you have a twisted shaft and a hole on the end: the actual business end could be one of several different styles!

Assuming that its a lip and spur type with a screw lead in:

take a small three square (triangle) file, second or smooth cut, and sharpen the flat blade from the spiral side (eg hold the drill uproght with the point down and file up at an angle. follow what is already there, but it is normally about 30-45degrees. Don't file an angle on the under side, but you can take the burr off (though it can actually help cut some woods to leave it there)

Then the spur (point or blade forms) needs to be sharpened from the inside. Turn the bit the other way up and sharpen a bare minimum to get it so it is sharp enough to score the outline of the hole. Take the burr off by gently rubbing the outside of the bit on a stone, be careful to to remove any metal that will reduce the diameter of the bit at the end as it wil cause the drill to bind.

when you've finished using it, dry it off. Green oak is great for dulling freshly sharpened tools if you don't clean them off

 

[tombear]

Thanks Dave!
the cutting part is as you described and it was which side (or both) to sharpen that I was in doubt over.

ATB

Tom

 

[pwb]

I thought I'd ask now before I blunt them but what is the best practice regarding sharpening augers?!

I found this web page looks quite helpful:
http://www.fine-tools.com/G-augerbitfile.html

Incidentally Footprint still make the large sort should anyone be planning some fence making et al but the prices are rather shocking, the 1.5 inch I found is the best part of 80 quid now!

After reading that I went and looked out my old Robert Sorby auger, It's 20" x 1.5" - is that too large for birch tapping ? Don't want to harm the tree.

It seems in quite good nick so I'm also going to have a go at sharpening.

Cheers, Pete.

 

[tombear]

An excellent link, thanks! and it gives me an excuse to buy another sort of file. Ever since I picked up some NOS Stubbs mill files cheap from a old hardware store that was closing down I've had a weakness for files

I got the 1.5 incher as I've got a 5 bar gate and a bit of fencing to do in the summer and I've recently found some scout pioneering websites that are full of great projects now the lads are big enough to get stuck in.

atb

Tom

 

[Dave Budd]

brilliant link there. That's exactly what I was trying to describe, see pictures are much easier to follow!

Personally, I don't go in for drilling ruddy great holes in the tree. I just use my knife to make a small hole (drive the tip in about 1/2") and poke a sliver or pointy stick into the flap of bark. The sap runs down the underside of the stick and drips off into an awaiting vessel. When finisheed I take the stick out and hold the flap until the dripping stops (or hold down and cover with clay). I've filled a demijon in less than a day that way, so it's by no means slow!

 

[pwb]

Personally, I don't go in for drilling ruddy great holes in the tree. I just use my knife to make a small hole (drive the tip in about 1/2") and poke a sliver or pointy stick into the flap of bark. The sap runs down the underside of the stick and drips off into an awaiting vessel. When finisheed I take the stick out and hold the flap until the dripping stops (or hold down and cover with clay). I've filled a demijon in less than a day that way, so it's by no means slow!

Thanks Dave.

I did wonder If a 1.5" hole was a bit wide to easily repair with a plug without going deep enough for it to hold.
I think I like the sound of your method.

Cheers,
Pete.