Sealing wood

  • Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.

greensurfingbear

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
The kuksa I'm working on appears to be a little more porous than I'd like.... What's folks recommendations for sealing it? I'd like to have hot beverages in it as well as cooler drinks.

Cheers guys


Orric
 
Last edited:

Macaroon

A bemused & bewildered
Jan 5, 2013
7,209
362
73
SE Wales
The milk (cassein?) thing seems to be a very good way of sealing, but if your kuksa is very porous the tried and tested method is beeswax, which is viscous enough to act as a filler; I've always smeared it on the inside thickly, then use some heat to melt it and let it run into the holes, then put it somewhere cold for a while so's the wax goes solid, and buff it to within an inch of it's life! It's also possible to overcoat the beeswax with a drying oil like Walnut from time to time, and mine have always been fine for both hot and cold liquids after this treatment.

Hope this helps....................
 

SimonMast

Tenderfoot
Dec 12, 2011
71
0
Hertfordshire
The milk treatment worked really well for me (I gave details in that thread). To a certain extent, anyone who drinks hot coffee with milk from their kuksa treats their vessel by so doing (which would help to explain why some people find that their kuksa stops leaking after a few coffees), but all I did is boil some milk and pour it in and leave it to cool. I'm no scientist, but so far as I can see from a little cursory reading on Google, casein is hydrophobic and resistant to dissolution by alcohol.

I finished my kuksa with walnut oil (from the outside, though obviously it soaks through) first, mainly because I like the finish. It's fine with both hot and cold, alcoholic and non. I was going to use beeswax but didn't want to buy any right now, and I've read reports of it melting under hot liquids (which would make sense).

I've read that pine resin makes a good finish, and you can of course use varnish (which can be natural). To a degree I think if your vessel is going to crack from the heat, there's only so much you can do to stop it.
 

greensurfingbear

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
The milk treatment worked really well for me (I gave details in that thread). To a certain extent, anyone who drinks hot coffee with milk from their kuksa treats their vessel by so doing (which would help to explain why some people find that their kuksa stops leaking after a few coffees), but all I did is boil some milk and pour it in and leave it to cool. I'm no scientist, but so far as I can see from a little cursory reading on Google, casein is hydrophobic and resistant to dissolution by alcohol.

I finished my kuksa with walnut oil (from the outside, though obviously it soaks through) first, mainly because I like the finish. It's fine with both hot and cold, alcoholic and non. I was going to use beeswax but didn't want to buy any right now, and I've read reports of it melting under hot liquids (which would make sense).

I've read that pine resin makes a good finish, and you can of course use varnish (which can be natural). To a degree I think if your vessel is going to crack from the heat, there's only so much you can do to stop it.

Thanks simon. Read your thread. Nice looking noggin made there.


Orric
 

BCUK Shop

We have a a number of knives, T-Shirts and other items for sale.

SHOP HERE