Sealing an axe collar.

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Chaard

Forager
Jul 9, 2013
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Hi all.

I've cut and prepped a piece of thick veg tan to make an axe collar for my hatchet but dont know what I should seal it with.

I need to buy some dye and sinew and needles and have heard the identity store reccomend on here. So it would be good to buy it all together.

I'm planning on making a knife sheath soon too of that requires something different.
 
Personally I never "seal" leather - I treat it will mixes of oils and beeswax or commercial products such as Nikwax or similar.
For the axe throat guards I have just produced I used a mix of Neetsfoot oil, animal fat, beeswax and natural turpentine which should keep the leather in good condition and weather resistant for some time.
For maintenance I would just use a commercial boot wax or shoe polish.
Same goes for the knife sheath.
I dislike "Resoline" type products as I think they can easily spoil the look of natural leather.
 
ok i should have called it how to finish an axe collar.

I used a mix of Neatsfoot oil, animal fat, beeswax and natural turpentine

Thanks for the info John. As I'm just getting started in leather-work I'd rather not have to buy 4 products to finish it off. Is there one thing that mostly does it all?

also out of curiosity what quantities do you use for your "Fenna's Fantastic Finishing Formula" or is it a secret recipe?
 
I am still experimenting on the "ideal" mix ... I had a supplier of a locally made organic "dubbin" and since this is no longer available I am trying my own variants...
making a batch this afternoon - plus a wood wax (beeswax and wood oil) at about 4 to one oil to wax:)
 
I have just made my mix -
200g Bees wax
125g Lard
100g Neetsfoot oil
25g pure turpentine
All done by weight for ease of measuring.
I melted the wax and lard together in an old army surplus mug on top of a gas stove - VERY CAREFULLY - I would liked to have used a bain - marie but could not rig one with the pots I had available.
I took the mix off the heat as soon as the wax had melted and added the oil and turps and stirred it as it cooled.
It is of just about the consistency I was after and works into leather very well.
You could use olive oil instead of Neetsfoot but I like to use animal products on animal products ...
Based on an old Welsh recipe.
 
And another recommendation for a product :)

I have been using a product called 'Gliptone Liquid Leather Conditioner & "Waterproofer" ' on my motorcycling gear and archery leather stuff for many years. I am not too sure what is in it, but it works very readily (best with a couple of applications overnight) and smells great - an important consideration! Note that Gliptone put their use of the word waterproofing in double quotes, because nothing actually waterproofs leather articles in the end.

I have also taken to making a few leather things, and have a couple in the pipeline - a Mary Rose inspired archery bracer, and a sword sheath for a bronze sword (cast and made the sword too). They are currently sucking up quantities of neatsfoot oil, and will probably get the Gliptone treatment in the end. I will post something about them in due course.
 

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