Scandinavian knife making
- Thread starter kjeld
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Come along to the amazing Summer Moot (21st July - 2nd August), a festival of bushcrafting and camping in a beautiful woodland PLEASE CLICK HERE for more information.
any hardwood is good for the handle but yo can use anything. I have used bits of copper leather tree bark even an old pool ball once. you go onto the british blades web page has some good info on there or if you go to youtube and type ray mears knife making there is a video of him making one very good video
I found it easier to use different segments, basically breaking the handle down to managable chunks. Measure the tang onto the segment (wood, bone, leather, metal), drill it out roughly and use needle-files to file it to shape to nicely fit around the tang (at the point you want it to on the tang, because tangs often taper).
Honestly I learnt far more on my first attempt than any amount of research could have taught me. Dive in there, find a knife you like the look of and try to replicate it.
Essentials:
Drill
Needle / Swiss files
Sander (or you could you files)
and to finish, sandpaper and oil (Danish oil, linseed oil, etc)
Honestly I learnt far more on my first attempt than any amount of research could have taught me. Dive in there, find a knife you like the look of and try to replicate it.
Essentials:
Drill
Needle / Swiss files
Sander (or you could you files)
and to finish, sandpaper and oil (Danish oil, linseed oil, etc)
Whittler Kev
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Have a look on the site you got it from, as most have a How to section on making their knifes. Also worth searching for hidden tang tutorial on here and British Blades forums
All the above, plus i would say dont be afraid to use a bit of wellie.
Not in the handle, I mean once you have the bits glued on (epoxy resin) i wrap the blade well in card, stick it in a soft jawed vice then use a bast*rd file to shape it, then go through the grits. If yopu have a belt sander that would work well - i do it all by hand and its perfectly do-able.
My response in another post in this forum of this morning is also relevent.
Plus there are so many tutorials on here.
Personally my favorites are spalted beech and cherry with leather spacers.
Not in the handle, I mean once you have the bits glued on (epoxy resin) i wrap the blade well in card, stick it in a soft jawed vice then use a bast*rd file to shape it, then go through the grits. If yopu have a belt sander that would work well - i do it all by hand and its perfectly do-able.
My response in another post in this forum of this morning is also relevent.
Plus there are so many tutorials on here.
Personally my favorites are spalted beech and cherry with leather spacers.
Whittler Kev
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
For a minute I thought you was after a nice waterproof handle (the treads would give it grip I suppose
)
Firstly I am glad you are going for a stick tang as the scare mongerers on here cant have got to you yet.
Look HERE HERE and HERE
Do not be scared to shorten the tang (50 mm into the wood is fine) and when getting the bolster to fit thin the tang rather than failing the hole bigger. You do not need fancy tools or a bench sander (i Have one now) to do this. You can use quick setting glue (safely on a stcik tang) and hold it place while it sets.
Read a lot and take your time get each piece to fit neatly.
To sand a piece flat hold 120 grit sandpaper on a flat suraface and turn the piece in small circles.
If you are unsure at any point stop and ask a question and someone will answer it.
If the kit is like THIS the wood is fine.
Look HERE HERE and HERE
Do not be scared to shorten the tang (50 mm into the wood is fine) and when getting the bolster to fit thin the tang rather than failing the hole bigger. You do not need fancy tools or a bench sander (i Have one now) to do this. You can use quick setting glue (safely on a stcik tang) and hold it place while it sets.
Read a lot and take your time get each piece to fit neatly.
To sand a piece flat hold 120 grit sandpaper on a flat suraface and turn the piece in small circles.
If you are unsure at any point stop and ask a question and someone will answer it.
If the kit is like THIS the wood is fine.
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Excellent links there Alf. Is the procedure the same if I use a piece of roe deer antler rather thana block of wood?
Cheers, Michael.
Cheers, Michael.
Yes but you will tend to find the centre honeycombed so more care is needed to get it stick and need to be careful how much shaping you do. Reindeer antler has a very dense core
Roe dear etc is OK to use it just needs more care.
Micheal
If you are planning on having a go you can come over and I will help you if you want.
Oh another tip which i find very usefull - to sand get a thin strip of your paper about 2cm wide and put a couple of legths of tape (electrical or duct) on the back.
Then you can put the blade (while protected) in the jaws of a vice and sand py alternately pulling one end then the other works suprisingly well. To finish do the same thing with a strip of leather and buffing compound on it - i only just found this and it works really good!
Since people are interested dare i mention the idea of a handle making meet sometime, or an excuse for a meet and a bit of handle making, kit swapping etc?
Then you can put the blade (while protected) in the jaws of a vice and sand py alternately pulling one end then the other works suprisingly well. To finish do the same thing with a strip of leather and buffing compound on it - i only just found this and it works really good!
Since people are interested dare i mention the idea of a handle making meet sometime, or an excuse for a meet and a bit of handle making, kit swapping etc?
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