Nah....
That is what that flat back edge is for....
That and numbing animals before slaughter...
That is what that flat back edge is for....
That and numbing animals before slaughter...
Restoring an old axe
- Thread starter Leshy
- Start date
Electrolysis works too, as long as you connect the correct polarity. Acetic acid is doing the same thing, of course, but more slowly. The advantage of electrolysis is that you're replacing oxide with metal, and not just peeling off the oxide.
Protip: A Carbon electrode cut from a low-grade D-cell may seem like a good idea to replace that corroded iron you use for the grubby side. What you get is evolved Chlorine. DAMHIKT.
You guys are funny!
The flat back edge is there to use to hammer with. Nails, wedges.
Nuts in the forest.
What do you use it for if not to hammer with?
The flat back edge is there to use to hammer with. Nails, wedges.
Nuts in the forest.
What do you use it for if not to hammer with?
Look at the log rounds that I am leaning on in my avatar.
The power splitter has a huge wedge = the "sparp" edge was no less than 5mm wide.
Professional fallers are forever hammering wedges into power saw cuts with the back of their axe.
Mind you, a lot of those wedges are "tell-tales" to judge as the trunk tips and opens.
Iron wedges are over kill and to heavy to carry. Most everybody uses big Delrin/nylon wedges
which do no damage to the axe. No broken metal chips, peening.
You all know how soft western red cedar can be.
I use nothng but WRC wedges for splitting,
Because the soft wedge will not dent the wood block to be split.
The power splitter has a huge wedge = the "sparp" edge was no less than 5mm wide.
Professional fallers are forever hammering wedges into power saw cuts with the back of their axe.
Mind you, a lot of those wedges are "tell-tales" to judge as the trunk tips and opens.
Iron wedges are over kill and to heavy to carry. Most everybody uses big Delrin/nylon wedges
which do no damage to the axe. No broken metal chips, peening.
You all know how soft western red cedar can be.
I use nothng but WRC wedges for splitting,
Because the soft wedge will not dent the wood block to be split.
I use old axe heads for splitting, at least to get started. They set into the wood better.
I should make guide handles for them, less chance of hitting myself in the set.
After that, Delrin or WRC wedges to make the rest of the split.
I can buy the wedges in a hardware/vehicle business where I buy boxes of chainsaw files.
I doubt very much if you will find the wedges outside of any forestry/logging district.
Buy the fluorescent pink colored ones to make a fashion statement.
I should make guide handles for them, less chance of hitting myself in the set.
After that, Delrin or WRC wedges to make the rest of the split.
I can buy the wedges in a hardware/vehicle business where I buy boxes of chainsaw files.
I doubt very much if you will find the wedges outside of any forestry/logging district.
Buy the fluorescent pink colored ones to make a fashion statement.
I am man enough to wear a pink shirt, but not man enough for a pink wedge!
No forestry on this island, apart of 'getting wood', but they have stuff like that in the closest town to our place in Norway.
No forestry on this island, apart of 'getting wood', but they have stuff like that in the closest town to our place in Norway.
It's spring and the summer's work might have run them out of stock.
They had pink and yellow, maybe red but I forget. Maybe 300m from my house.
Clean up a few old axe heads, really, really smooth sides is less friction.
Hardwood wedges at 25 degrees is about as bash-worthy as they need to be.
They had pink and yellow, maybe red but I forget. Maybe 300m from my house.
Clean up a few old axe heads, really, really smooth sides is less friction.
Hardwood wedges at 25 degrees is about as bash-worthy as they need to be.
No it's not! This comes down to impact mechanics. The difference in force on the eye of the axe between knocking a nail into a piece of wood or a wooden peg into the ground and hitting a solid metal cone or similar into a difficult log is incredible. You will distort the eye or even crack it - that is classified as cruelty to axes
In the same way hitting the back of the axe with a lump hammer is also a no-no.
Of course, you can do what you like with your own axe; just don't come near any of mine
. Of course you could be just winding us up However, I think we have gone off topic!!!!
Apologies for rubbish cellphone pictures , but there you go.
I've put an edge on it with a file, but decided not to sharpen it ....yet.
I will try it first without the razor sharp edge to see how we get on.
I've put 3 coats of Danish oil (the only one I have here at the moment) but will probably treat with B.L.O. in the future.
Nothing extravagant or pretty to look at , although the grain of the old hickory came out lovely with the oil .
It's not a show queen , it's definitely a workhorse , with battle scars , character and everything.
I'm happy with the fact that I got a free quality axe and I had the great pleasure of bringing it back to life again .
PS-
Axe mask ideas for a leather deficient novice very welcome .
And all the discussion here , on or off topic is more than welcome!!
I've put an edge on it with a file, but decided not to sharpen it ....yet.
I will try it first without the razor sharp edge to see how we get on.
I've put 3 coats of Danish oil (the only one I have here at the moment) but will probably treat with B.L.O. in the future.
Nothing extravagant or pretty to look at , although the grain of the old hickory came out lovely with the oil .
It's not a show queen , it's definitely a workhorse , with battle scars , character and everything.
I'm happy with the fact that I got a free quality axe and I had the great pleasure of bringing it back to life again .
PS-
Axe mask ideas for a leather deficient novice very welcome .
And all the discussion here , on or off topic is more than welcome!!
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Excellent job..
No need for a nerdy polish, imo. Will remove the character!
You can quite easily make a protection from wrapping raw hide.
Get a 'dog chew' large size, soak until soft. Squeeze out excess water. 'Untie' it, maybe cut to a wide strip, depending how it looks like. Wrap. Let dry.
Simple!
No need for a nerdy polish, imo. Will remove the character!
You can quite easily make a protection from wrapping raw hide.
Get a 'dog chew' large size, soak until soft. Squeeze out excess water. 'Untie' it, maybe cut to a wide strip, depending how it looks like. Wrap. Let dry.
Simple!
For practical applications I often make up 'no sew' leather covers etc. Here's a simple leather mask (on a much smaller axe) using just a press stud.
Thanks Broch .
They look easy enought that I could manage to make that in my very limited abilities.
I might have a go ...
Also nice old axe that one ! I bet it has some history .
Turn of the 19th century makes it about 100 years old! What's the story behind it ?
Sorry for being nosey
They look easy enought that I could manage to make that in my very limited abilities.
I might have a go ...
Also nice old axe that one ! I bet it has some history .
Turn of the 19th century makes it about 100 years old! What's the story behind it ?
Sorry for being nosey
I was trying to work work out what you meant but now I get it ! Sounds quite easy indeed, cheap dog treat and very useful.
Thanks Janne
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