I purchased a Husky Carpenter's axe a while back but never found it to be ideal for carving. After investing in a few good books on wood carving and reading the blogs of knowledgeable woods folk I decided to reprofile the axe giving it a steeper (longer) grind on the left side (I'm right handed) i.e. an asymetrical grind that aids the user when the axe is used almost parallel to the work piece.
I resisted the temptation to use my belt sander but didn't want to use a file because I hate the feeling of hardend steel on hardened steel. I don't have any large oilstones so that was another avenue I didn't explore. I have diamond sharpeners but I save those for Sunday best. To remove steel quickly and efficiently I glued some carborundum paper (from broken grinder belts) onto some plywood and added a couple of handles. I made one for some 3" wide course belts and another would utilise some scrap 2" belts which were much finer. Removing the metal was still hard work but abrasive paper/cloth feels so much nicer to use than a file. I got the blade so sharp that I wore Kevalr gloves when sharpening! After an hour or so of hard work I had an axe that can give very fine and smooth cuts in green sycamore. I still find the axe too heavy and I'm no lightweight but it is much improved tool for my needs.
20" inch sanding blocks
Elongating the LHS edge
Axe clamped to workbench for stability when sharpening
Tooltime...
I resisted the temptation to use my belt sander but didn't want to use a file because I hate the feeling of hardend steel on hardened steel. I don't have any large oilstones so that was another avenue I didn't explore. I have diamond sharpeners but I save those for Sunday best. To remove steel quickly and efficiently I glued some carborundum paper (from broken grinder belts) onto some plywood and added a couple of handles. I made one for some 3" wide course belts and another would utilise some scrap 2" belts which were much finer. Removing the metal was still hard work but abrasive paper/cloth feels so much nicer to use than a file. I got the blade so sharp that I wore Kevalr gloves when sharpening! After an hour or so of hard work I had an axe that can give very fine and smooth cuts in green sycamore. I still find the axe too heavy and I'm no lightweight but it is much improved tool for my needs.
20" inch sanding blocks
Elongating the LHS edge
Axe clamped to workbench for stability when sharpening
Tooltime...