The trouble with cutting tools is that they are optimized for one sort of cutting or splitting - if they are to work really well - and a person is likely to run into trouble when they expect one to work well at everything.
I typically carry a Mora of 4 to 6" blade. This will cut anything which needs cutting from dressing fish or small game to making fuzzy sticks to get a fire lit. It can be used with a baton to split wood into thinner pieces for firewood or (carefully) with a baton to drop green wood poles for use in a camp. I've come to prefer the Mora for the simple reason that they are light, and work well for my purposes. The thicker H1 if properly set up will do all of that and is better for splitting wood with a baton because it is a better (wider) wedge. The problem is that it's heavier, and I always consider what else I can carry for the weight difference.
With the Temagami or the H1, you'll notice that the back of the blade or spine is pretty straight, and so the actual edge has more curvature to the point. The H1 - second from top in this pic, has a continuous curve of edge and that is an advantage in both skinning and in whittling very thin fuzzies for wet conditions.
I'm glad that you brought up the raft idea which implies cutting across the grain of dry or seasoned wood. A more likely task is cutting across the grain of dry wood found in a log jam, for firewood. A knife and baton takes forever at this task compared to a chopping tool or saw. So if a person starts with a Mora for cutting and adds a folding or larger take down saw, then they can get a lot of work done at around the same weight as a heavy knife. A lot of people over the years have gone with the idea of adding a light hatchet or axe instead of the saw since it has the capability of both chopping and splitting. A long blade such as a machete will also work well now that we know how to profile them.
I've tried to calculate how much wood I've cut over the years with my take-down saws (wood here gets a bit big for a Bahco Laplander) - many cords. Here when trees fall across trails they're often under tension and so axes work better for clearing. Driving logging roads sounds easy, but with our heavy snow alders get bent over the road blocking it, but are still green and growing. Those are very dangerous to cut since they split and sections springboard or spring up - and a machete or golok is the safe tool to use on them. An axe or hatchet bites too deep and so they always springboard. Saws bind and also cause springboarding. So while I'd happily drop any of the standing saplings with a knife and baton in a couple of minutes since they are only 6-8" diameter saplings, a person would be in a lot of danger trying that with ones bent over the road. I use a heavy golok since around the bend are going to be another half dozen, and further even more. Yes I section them and clear the road.. It's just a few minutes with a heavy blade.
This is spring-boarding or splitting up in a very mild example. A person I know was blinded by cutting a bent alder stick.
I've sure sectioned and split lots of seasoned wood with a machete too, when making a fire for a brew up after trail clearing with the tool. Properly profiled a heavy machete or golok will cut through a 2x4 in a fraction of the chops that a heavy survival knife like the A1 would take, so it's a viable tool.
I probably haven't been very helpful, but I try to match the blade to the expected job. For small fires and cutting then better to have a light knife that's actually on my person. Since I do have to clear trails and logging roads then I carry long blades, axes and saws in the vehicle - and with me if I'm clearing trails. I tend to like light knives, but you may not. Nevertheless it's worth investing in a set of Moras of all blade lengths and shapes to see which one suits. Then make a good decision based on your experience with those. After that decide on saws axes or heavy blades depending on what you figure you'll need.
