Re-grinding

[Josey Wales]

Hi chaps, a while since I do this.

OK. I've got a couple of knives that I want re-grinding. One is a Faellkniven F1. I want to get a flat scandi type edge on this for easier sharpening/better wood carving.

Also I have a stewart marsh bushcraft knife (made myself with a kit) with a horrible nick in it, so I would like to grind it away brecause it hurts me to even see it!!

I was wondering if anyone knows any professionals who might be able to do the job. I would like whoever is doing it to be capable of creating a good edge (correct angles e.t.c. hence why i said professionals).

I hope you can point me in the right dirrection.

Cheers,

 

[Longstrider]

Hi Josey, To get a scandi grind on an F1 would probably mean having to remove quite a bit of steel, making the blade considerably narrower than it is now. You might like to consider a flat-ish grind with a secondary bevel as a better alternative? This would be more easily achived and would not involve quite so much removal of good blade steel.
If you like the design of the F1 but would prefer a flat ground knife, why not look at selling the F1 as it is and treating yourself to a new "toy" like the Cold Steel Master Hunter instead ? Cold Steel now do a Master Hunter with a San Mai blade that is very similar in make-up to the triple laminated blade of the F1.

As for your Stewart Marsh knife, if you can sharpen it properly yourself you should be able to regrind the edge correctly too. Simply "sharpen" the knife on a far coarser stone than you would normally use (to remove LOTS of the steel quickly) then work your way down through finer and finer grits until you have a blemish-free, new edge on the blade.

I would gladly do the Stewart Marsh knife for you if you were a little closer to me (postage would make this a little awkward as it is I guess) but I'd not want to take on the job of turning a convexed F1 into a Scandi grind on someone elses knife unless I'd done it successfully on one of my own first, and I LIKE the convex blade on my F1.

Don't be fooled by the "Professional" tag. To be a professional at something simply means that the person is paid to do the job. You can often find that a keen amateur is a better man for the job as he does it for the love of it not just for the money.

 

[woodchips]

Hi Josey, the subject of a scandi grind on a falkniven f1 has recently been discussed in much detail, check out this link

I recently bought a F1 and was very disappointed with the way it carved wood, but I was prepared for this after reading all the discussions around the f1. I did have a lot of success after re profiling it however. I made a hoodoo hone a while ago, with smooth wood on one side and rubber on the other. I used the flat side and 400 grit wet and dry to knock off the steep shoulders off the convex profile and then used the rubber side to recreate a smooth convex profile then made my way up the grits to a smooth polish. It took me a couple of evenings work until I was happy, but happy I was at the end. I was surprised by just how easily 400 grit paper removed the steel, I thought it was going to be a lot tougher than it was.

The blade still has a convex profile but without the steep shoulders it now carves wood very well, not quite as well as a thin scandi grind blade perhaps, but there is not much in it unless fine detail is needed, and I still have a solid knife in decent stainless steel suitable for general bushcraft abuse which is exactly what I wanted.

 

[leon-1]

Use a Lansky to set up a shallow moran grind on it, it works very well.