Hi. I've a WS Dartmoor knife that I'd like to re-grind to something like a scandi shape. Does anyone know of anyone in Scotland? I'm Perthshire based.
RE-GRIND NEEDED PERTHSIRE
- Thread starter SCOMAN
- Start date
Do you have any pictures? I'm pretty sure that knife has a scandi already. Albeit with a micro bevel. I don't personally do regrinds but in sure a picture would help anyone who does.
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There is a small bevel, I’ll post pics shortly. The steel is notoriously hard to sharpen so a grind that I can touch up easily in the field is what I’m after.
I agree with Stew.
That said, if a steel is difficult to sharpen, usually it is preferable to have the smallest bevel possible, so that you need remove the least amount of steel. That knife already has a small secondary bevel. Changing to a Scandi would mean that you are either going to be sharpening a small secondary back on to the knife until you are where you are now, or you are going to have to remove metal across the whole 1/2"+ bevel, which will be a real pig of a job to keep up on.
Convexing will also be a long term maintenance job to prevent the bevel becoming shorter over time, but you don't have to use the same fine stone across the whole convex, you can use coarser media on most of it, then polish the last bit that does the cutting. Do that with a Scandi and you don't have a flat bevel. Convex also means you don't have to be particularly precise on your angle in the field.
That said, if a steel is difficult to sharpen, usually it is preferable to have the smallest bevel possible, so that you need remove the least amount of steel. That knife already has a small secondary bevel. Changing to a Scandi would mean that you are either going to be sharpening a small secondary back on to the knife until you are where you are now, or you are going to have to remove metal across the whole 1/2"+ bevel, which will be a real pig of a job to keep up on.
Convexing will also be a long term maintenance job to prevent the bevel becoming shorter over time, but you don't have to use the same fine stone across the whole convex, you can use coarser media on most of it, then polish the last bit that does the cutting. Do that with a Scandi and you don't have a flat bevel. Convex also means you don't have to be particularly precise on your angle in the field.
yep I'm with the last two 
If you want it as a lump to bully or chop through stuff, then convex it yourself. If you want it as a knife for slicing things, then have it reground to a full flat or high sabre grind, ya know like a proper knife!
The sooner people give up on this ridiculous scandi grind on every knife that isn't a dedicated carving tool, the better!
If you want it as a lump to bully or chop through stuff, then convex it yourself. If you want it as a knife for slicing things, then have it reground to a full flat or high sabre grind, ya know like a proper knife!
The sooner people give up on this ridiculous scandi grind on every knife that isn't a dedicated carving tool, the better!
Sweet baby Jesus. Someone in the bushcraft community that agrees with me!yep I'm with the last two
If you want it as a lump to bully or chop through stuff, then convex it yourself. If you want it as a knife for slicing things, then have it reground to a full flat or high sabre grind, ya know like a proper knife!
The sooner people give up on this ridiculous scandi grind on every knife that isn't a dedicated carving tool, the better!
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good ol' St Mears has given the bushcraft movement a lot of good things, but the scandi is not one of them!
I couldn't agree more. In fact a week or so ago I said as much on my instagram when someone seemed surprised that I do full flat grinds on O1 tool steel!
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LOL, if you tell that to a std puukko user he is not going to buy you a beer. There is actually little difference between a "full" flat and "scandi" grind, main difference mostly being the starting thickness of the blade.
Most scandi grinds are really oh so very slightly hollow because of the large diameter wheel. In use the blade develops a slight flat bevel.
Most puukkos are multipurpose (light weight) knives not intended for very heavy work.
But each to his(hers)(whatever) own.
Mors was absolutely dead set that a blade that was to be used for wood must have a Scandi grind (as in a single bevel, no secondary), and a blade that was never going to be used for wood could have something else. So it wasn't just Mr. Mears.
It also does not help following the terminology that people from Finland tend to have a slightly different idea of what constitutes a "Scandi grind" than folk from the UK, or from the US, and that the bevels on traditional Norwegian, Finnish and Swedish knives all look a little different, and that the term "full flat" can be taken as a single bevel, spine to edge, or having a secondary bevel, and that that secondary bevel can itself be either flat or convex.
It also does not help following the terminology that people from Finland tend to have a slightly different idea of what constitutes a "Scandi grind" than folk from the UK, or from the US, and that the bevels on traditional Norwegian, Finnish and Swedish knives all look a little different, and that the term "full flat" can be taken as a single bevel, spine to edge, or having a secondary bevel, and that that secondary bevel can itself be either flat or convex.
My apologies for taking your thread off topic.
"Can help" might be different from "willing to help".
A lot of people don't like taking on re-grinds, especially when the base knife is fairly expensive. I know that applies to me. The apparently simple question you ask leaves a lot of room for misaligned expectations. What sort of level of finish are you looking for? Is this knife a tool that sees use, or are you hoping that it will retain significant resale value? Are you looking for someone to quote you a price, or a mate that will take it on for the challenge?
Many who do Scandi grinds do so with the aid of jigs which may not suit something the size and shape of the Dartmoor. To find out whether they "can" might involve getting you to send the knife for a trial fit.
Does your request for only Scottish makers mean you want to hand deliver, not use the post?
"Can help" might be different from "willing to help".
A lot of people don't like taking on re-grinds, especially when the base knife is fairly expensive. I know that applies to me. The apparently simple question you ask leaves a lot of room for misaligned expectations. What sort of level of finish are you looking for? Is this knife a tool that sees use, or are you hoping that it will retain significant resale value? Are you looking for someone to quote you a price, or a mate that will take it on for the challenge?
Many who do Scandi grinds do so with the aid of jigs which may not suit something the size and shape of the Dartmoor. To find out whether they "can" might involve getting you to send the knife for a trial fit.
Does your request for only Scottish makers mean you want to hand deliver, not use the post?
Maybe not but it has kept it bumped up that maybe someone who can help will see it. I’m not in Scotland so can’t help.
No more than happy to post. Rather than get in a ‘urine & wall‘ post all I’m after is a grind that ends in a sharp edge rather than having an extra bevel on it. The steel used is not easy to work with and if I do take it out for use I want to be able to, if necessary, sharpen it easily. Whether it’s recommended for or against by Mors, Mears or Mork is a little irrelevant. I’ll take an axe file to it and see how I progress or not. I’ve been meaning to attack it but have been too busy for the last few years...
I’m sure you’re aware of this, but the secondary bevel adds strength to the edge by widening the steel thickness behind it. Taking it to a zero grind makes the knife less suited to its purpose of being an all rounder with chopping and hard use in mind, convex would be better, and also a lot easier to do. Also, it’s been mentioned that scandi is not an easy grind to sharpen. It is absolutely my least favourite due to the amount of metal that needs to be in contact with the stone and held exactly at the correct angle. A secondary bevel is a doddle to sharpen by comparison. However, if it’s what you want, then the best of luck with it.
