Nikwax question

[Jamie]

Hi all

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how much hot water to put in a bath and how long you would leave a jacket to proof it using the Nikwax Cotton Proof stuff?

I tried it in the washing machine and it didnt work

Any ideas gratefully received

Cheers

 

[bigjackbrass]

Not sure about handwashing, but I have successfully used Cottonproof in a washing machine before now. Did you make sure that all of the detergent was cleaned out of the machine? That seems to be the main reason why proofing fails to stick. Try running a load through with no detergent (just plain water) and be certain that the item you're proofing has been rinsed through in dilute pure soap (or Nikwax Loft) to remove any traces of dirt and proofing, then put it in the machine with the Cottonproof, preferably on a half load.

If that doesn't work then I'd suggest enough water to cover the item, so as not to dilute the proofing too much.

 

[Jamie]

Cheers BJB

When you say 'and be certain that the item you're proofing has been rinsed through in dilute pure soap (or Nikwax Loft) to remove any traces of dirt and proofing' what do you mean by the dilute pure soap bit....sorry for being dense!

cheers

 

[Adi007]

What i do is run a blank wash through the machine to clear out any detergent, then wash the item with TechWash before finally giving it the CottonProof treatment - longwinded but it works, although what you treat is far from being waterproof, rain will bead off it and items done like this dry quickly.

 

[Jamie]

Cheers to you both

 

[Buckshot]

I followed the instructions on the 'how to Nikwax your Swanni' on the reviews section here when I did my 95 pattern coat I use for stalking.
It is a long winded process though.

Works fine, the rain beads well as Adi says. I haven't been out in a downpoor yet though.

Cheers

mark

 

[bigjackbrass]

Cheers BJB

When you say 'and be certain that the item you're proofing has been rinsed through in dilute pure soap (or Nikwax Loft) to remove any traces of dirt and proofing' what do you mean by the dilute pure soap bit....sorry for being dense!

cheers

Sorry Jamie, I could have phrased that more clearly. Basically, Nikwax Loft is a soap rather than a detergent, so it doesn't repel or disperse waterproofing. For this reason it is recommended as the cleaner to use when washing proofed items, or items you need to clean prior to proofing. However, it's not cheap and many people use soap flakes instead. You'll find them in the washing powder section at the supermarket under a variety of names. When I said "dilute pure soap" I meant not to use too much Loft or soap in the wash. If the item you're washing really needs a good clean then you might have to do several washes, firstly with a good detergent to get it clean, then with Loft or soap to get the detergent, then a good rinse or two to remove all traces of the soap before applying the Cottonproof.

And indeed the end result is not total waterproofing, but it can be surprisingly effective.

 

[Swampy Matt]

Something that I was told by a Nikwax sales rep during product training -

All of the Nikwax proofing products are Heat Activated. Once you have washed or sprayed the proofer into the garment, it should be dryed out by Tumble Drying (read garment instructions first!) or put it on a coat hanger and leave it over a radiator on a low heat.

Apparantly this can make a big difference to how affective the waterproofing is.

Doing this i've had success with both the cotton proof and the TX Direct for gore-tex.

 

[Jamie]

Thank you one and all...... :biggthump :biggthump

 

[leon-1]

Something that I was told by a Nikwax sales rep during product training -

All of the Nikwax proofing products are Heat Activated. Once you have washed or sprayed the proofer into the garment, it should be dryed out by Tumble Drying (read garment instructions first!) or put it on a coat hanger and leave it over a radiator on a low heat.

Apparantly this can make a big difference to how affective the waterproofing is.

Doing this i've had success with both the cotton proof and the TX Direct for gore-tex.

This is true they also say that the higher the heat the better, I have used an iron before now on both the ventiles that I have.

I always get caught in the rain because I don't drive and it's a 3 1/2 mile walk into town as the crow flies, using the methods described above I have remained dry for a good period of time.

 

[PC2K]

i have heard things about ironing... Didn't noticed any diffrence. the DWR was gone. Got to apply new stuff wenn i got the time.

 

[leon-1]

Ive heard things about it as well, but it still seems to work as well as normal styles of waterproofing so I have no problems with it .