I really having trouble sharpining my knife i have a sharpening stone bbut it just dosnt seem to be having any effect please help
Thanks
Martin
Thanks
Martin
My knife sharpening troubles HELP ;) plz
- Thread starter Martin Cross
- Start date
Check out the "Knife Tools FAQ" and "Sharpening Guide" that are stickied at the top of this forum. Those are guaranteed to work!
Adam
Adam
what sort of knife are you wanting to sharpen?
maybe pop across to the emccu meet up (details on britishblades) I'm sure someone can show you
maybe pop across to the emccu meet up (details on britishblades) I'm sure someone can show you
Martin,
If you follow the "Sticky" thread about basic sharpening, you be pretty close to getting what you need.
Just treat the line of steel molecules that make up the cutting edge as if they are the most precious thing in the universe
ATB
Ogri the trog
If you follow the "Sticky" thread about basic sharpening, you be pretty close to getting what you need.
Just treat the line of steel molecules that make up the cutting edge as if they are the most precious thing in the universe
ATB
Ogri the trog
Buy a few differing grades of wet and dry. Stick to a flat peice of wood. You have a cheap sharpening stone.
Remember as said above treat the wire edge gently. Like a good woman rough handling will end in a broken fragile edge. Your after a long term razor sharp edge. For this you need to gradually use finer and finer stones finishing with a strop.
Consistancy is the key.
Remember as said above treat the wire edge gently. Like a good woman rough handling will end in a broken fragile edge. Your after a long term razor sharp edge. For this you need to gradually use finer and finer stones finishing with a strop.
Consistancy is the key.
or do what I did and buy a Spyderco Sharpmarker.
It has to be the ultimate sharpener!
Mr Strop
(and no I dont work with etc etc etc blah affiliated Spyderco etc blah)
It has to be the ultimate sharpener!
Mr Strop
(and no I dont work with etc etc etc blah affiliated Spyderco etc blah)
Thanks to a sale here on BushcraftUK I now have a Spyderco Sharpmaker and I can say that it works for me too.
One knife that I was particularly frustrated with, an old Kershaw Outlaw Bill, is now sharper than the day it was bought.
I had used oilstones on it, wet and dry paper, a diamond rod and Arkansas stones. I think I was afraid to get too aggressive with it because I didn't want to ruin it completely. Anyway after three goes on the Sharpmaker it's almost shaving sharp. (I don't need it to be too sharp because it's for heavy cutting jobs rather than fine slicing.)
For people like me the Sharpmaker is ideal. I don't like spending a lot of time sharpening my knives and I like to have a simple, clean solution that is portable and doesn't take up much space.
One knife that I was particularly frustrated with, an old Kershaw Outlaw Bill, is now sharper than the day it was bought.
I had used oilstones on it, wet and dry paper, a diamond rod and Arkansas stones. I think I was afraid to get too aggressive with it because I didn't want to ruin it completely. Anyway after three goes on the Sharpmaker it's almost shaving sharp. (I don't need it to be too sharp because it's for heavy cutting jobs rather than fine slicing.)
For people like me the Sharpmaker is ideal. I don't like spending a lot of time sharpening my knives and I like to have a simple, clean solution that is portable and doesn't take up much space.
that's the 203 model IIRC
the 204 has a few more options.
It's worth noting that it doesn't really have any advantage over a benchstone for doing scandi grinds (infact has a dissadvantage) but can be handy for putting a very final edge on a mora. I use the 30degree setting to give a bit more strength to the edge then you'd get otherwise.
I think I want the spyderco benchstones now thuogh
the 204 has a few more options.
It's worth noting that it doesn't really have any advantage over a benchstone for doing scandi grinds (infact has a dissadvantage) but can be handy for putting a very final edge on a mora. I use the 30degree setting to give a bit more strength to the edge then you'd get otherwise.
I think I want the spyderco benchstones now thuogh
Andy said:that's the 203 model IIRC
the 204 has a few more options.
It's worth noting that it doesn't really have any advantage over a benchstone for doing scandi grinds (infact has a dissadvantage) but can be handy for putting a very final edge on a mora. I use the 30degree setting to give a bit more strength to the edge then you'd get otherwise.
I think I want the spyderco benchstones now thuogh
you can use the 204 as a bench stone by turning it upside down and putting both rods in the grooves on the bottom..
yes you can, however. Doing that means that you can't sharpen the full length of the blade. I find it's better to hold a stone in the packed position and sharpen that way. This means that the thick base doesn't get in the way (for best results use a blob of blue tac to hold the stone firmly). This also means that you have a larger base area and have a more steady sharpening stone (steady stone=better edge). I find that a damp sheet of kitchen roll under the sharpmaker stops it moving round when your doing this.
A benchstone is still better though as you have a greater area to use when sharpening
A benchstone is still better though as you have a greater area to use when sharpening
I would suggest that you dont try to start out with a sharpsmarker especially on single bevel knives, learn on a whetstone first then move on to something else if you feel you want to when you are more experienced
For my Frost's Clipper of carbon steel, I used Japanese water stones. I bought a 1000/6000 combination stone and after about 10 stokes on each side the Mora will shave a bugs whiskers! The key is the angle. I find the Norwegian bevel is fairly easy to sharpen. I lay the blade flat on the wet stone and bring it up until I can feel all of the bevel applied to the stone and then run it across the stone, equal amount of times on each side of the blade. The Frost's really take a great edge.
For double bevel knives I use mostly a Spyderco Sharpmaker and find it easy to get a good edge. I have never gotten an edge as sharp as a Norwegian bevel though, the large bevel is just so much easier to hold a consistent angle on the bevel. There is definately some good info with pics out there on the web, take a look around and see what works for you. Cheers!
For double bevel knives I use mostly a Spyderco Sharpmaker and find it easy to get a good edge. I have never gotten an edge as sharp as a Norwegian bevel though, the large bevel is just so much easier to hold a consistent angle on the bevel. There is definately some good info with pics out there on the web, take a look around and see what works for you. Cheers!
I use the lanskey system for my knives I have the deluxe version plus an arkansas black stone for final finishing and polishing of the cutting edge then a few strokes on a strop.
Dave.
Dave.
I am guessing you are a beginner. If i am right you are probably the only person on the thread who knows less than me!
Although you dont want to ruin a knife, remember how cheap that knife is. It is the knife for you to make mistakes on. You dont have to keep that bevel perfect each time you sharpen it for example. You could put in a secondary bevel and still have a really sharp and useful knife.
Do exactly what the threads tell you and have confidence.
Treat both sides of the edge the same. Same pressure, same everything. Remember also that the bevel should lie flat on the stone for the whole stroke.
Strop. If you are frustrated that you havent got a razor edge at the end of using the stone, use the strop and see if that works. I have just discovered stropping.
Although you dont want to ruin a knife, remember how cheap that knife is. It is the knife for you to make mistakes on. You dont have to keep that bevel perfect each time you sharpen it for example. You could put in a secondary bevel and still have a really sharp and useful knife.
Do exactly what the threads tell you and have confidence.
Treat both sides of the edge the same. Same pressure, same everything. Remember also that the bevel should lie flat on the stone for the whole stroke.
Strop. If you are frustrated that you havent got a razor edge at the end of using the stone, use the strop and see if that works. I have just discovered stropping.
I have had the same problem, but after about 12 hours of practice on my carbon steel Frost I can now boast a razor sharp knife and a hairless right arm, (Im left handed).Martin Cross said:
The key I have found is to allow lots of time and keep at it without worrying about ruining the knife, as suggested lay the blade flat on the stone and then tilt it so you can feel the bevel flat against the stone. Even pressure and even stokes will guarantee the edge runs down the middle of the knife. I have used both a cheap combination oilstone, and a pair of combination waterstones. I have found either system works equally as well. Practice and patients, in equal measure
