Moving to Bulgaria - It's an option

Tony

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The Britons who swap the UK for the poorest part of the EU

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By Matthew PriceEurope correspondent

Kate and Terry Humphries show Matthew Price around their new home and neighbourhood in Bulgaria

This is the link to the article which has the vid in it if anyone is interested in watching it, It's worth it. One of the things I gout out of the vid was that they were there with the right attitude and sense of humour... http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-26324564 TB


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What's it like to live in the poorest part of the poorest country in the European Union?
While concerns persist over how many Bulgarians and Romanians might move to the UK in search of work, some Brits have upped sticks and made the opposite journey.

Amid increased restrictions in the UK on benefit payments for EU migrants, the BBC has caught up with one British couple who left their home in a quiet village in Rutland in favour of the snow-capped terrain of north-west Bulgaria.

"The undertakers all seem to wear tracksuit trousers," says Kate Humphries, as she prepares a pot of coffee in her new Bulgarian home, nestled in the snowy hills of the poorest part of the poorest country in the EU.

"In fact the ambulance crews also wear tracksuit trousers. Perhaps they're the same people," she adds, to a throaty laugh from her husband Terry.

The couple moved to the village of Komoshtitsa late last year. It took them four days to drive across Europe, with their two dogs, to the house they bought in the remote, rural north-west corner of Bulgaria, close to the border with Romania.

Potholes and rubbishThey've always liked village life, but this is rather different from what they've left behind.

"The village that we came from in England was very twee. On the edge of Rutland Water. A very pretty Rutland village. Stone houses. All hedges cut beautifully - mostly by Terry."

Komoshtitsa is not beautiful to look at. Potholes litter those roads that are tarmacked. Other lanes are either gravel or mud tracks. The buildings haven't seen a fresh coat of paint in years. Plaster crumbles off many facades. Rubbish lies along the roads.

And there is real poverty here. Many are unemployed. Some of the villagers collect their water from a spring.

So why move 1,625 miles (2,616km) to this?

"We could do what we want to do. We could afford to do what we want to do. Bulgaria was the place," says Kate.
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Some 18,000 British people live in Bulgaria, including Kate and Terry Humphries, who moved there last year

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The couple said that, despite not speaking the language, they did not feel isolated living in Bulgaria because people were more friendly than back in UK

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The village of Komoshtitsa is located in north-west Bulgaria and has a population of about 1,000 people

What they could afford is a lot: the main house with several bedrooms; a barn, recently re-roofed; more buildings that, in time, can be converted; land for a horse, which one day Kate wants to buy; room for an orchard and more besides. All, as Kate says, "for around the price of a new family car in the UK".

Their idea is to be self-sufficient in terms of food.

'Lower cost of living'"We will have to buy milk - I don't think we will stretch to a cow. Maybe a goat, or two, some chickens. We've got a vegetable plot over there."

The yard next to the barn is full of chopped wood that's been keeping them warm through the winter months. All their heating is provided by a wood burner in the living room.

"Less than £300 to heat everywhere" for the year, says Terry proudly. "That's good mathematics."

Terry's used to chopping wood. He worked for the Forestry Commission. Kate was a housekeeper for a rich landowner for years, until she lost her job recently.

They've never been in debt and have worked hard but they realised that, with both of them in their 50s, something had to change if they were to be able to afford their own home and live comfortably in the coming years.

It is estimated that some 18,000 British people have moved to Bulgaria - many to take advantage of the lower cost of living. About half live here for part of the year, the rest permanently.

The latest figures provided by the British government - and gathered by the Institute for Public Policy Research (IPPR) - are an estimate. They're the best guide we have as to where Brits who have moved abroad are living in the EU.

Interestingly, they suggest that the number of Brits living outside the UK but in another EU country is 2.2 million - about the same as the number of EU citizens who are now living in the UK (2.34 million).

"British people, for the most part, leave for work," says Dr Carlos Vargas-Silva, an economist and senior researcher at Oxford University.

Freedom of movementThis migration, back and forth, is made easier by the European Union's policy on Freedom of Movement, part of the Single Market rules which allow any EU citizen to travel to another EU country to live, study, or look for work.

The UK government's plans to restrict EU migrants' access to benefit payments are being examined by the European Commission to see whether they break the Single Market rules.

Meanwhile the ski slopes above the Bulgarian capital, Sofia, are swarming with children in yellow high-visibility jackets. It's unseasonably warm. The snow is melting, turning to sludge, making the going tough. A little boy slips over on the edge of the piste.

"There you go, up you get," says another Brit turned semi-Bulgarian, offering a helping hand. Matt Pigden has made the resort, Borovets, his home for almost a decade now. He runs a successful snowboarding company here during the winter, and in the summer he heads down the mountain to a nearby lake where he hosts wakeboarding training sessions.
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Briton Matt Pigden has lived in Bulgaria for almost a decade

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Mr Pigden runs a snowboarding company in Bulgaria during the winter

"When I first came here, before 2007, before Bulgaria was in the EU, we had to register with our local police station, you could only stay here for a certain amount of time."

Since joining the European Union it has become a lot less bureaucratic.

"Now I've got a Bulgarian citizen card. I'm registered in Bulgaria. I have a European ID card on top of my UK passport. It's easy," says Matt.

"The single labour market is not the key factor that decides the destination," argues Dr Vargas-Silva. People "are looking at wider factors than that".

So many Brits have moved to Bulgaria - a country of only 7.3 million people - that it has inspired a comedy TV series.
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Leslie Grantham's first scene in English Neighbour

The English Neighbour was originally a popular book written a few years ago. In the TV version, the Englishman who moves in is played by the former EastEnders actor Leslie Grantham, aka Dirty Den.

For the real "English neighbours" of Komoshtitsa, the move is a chance to reset their lives.

"I didn't even know where Bulgaria was at first. I certainly didn't know it was in the EU," says Kate Humphries.

They are still grappling with the language and no-one in the village speaks particularly good English but, they say, they do not feel isolated.

"Just the opposite," says Terry. "You walk up the street and everybody speaks. In England you walk up the street and sometimes people wouldn't speak."

Kate says things had changed so much back in Rutland that they needed a new place to call home.

"There were seven farmers in that village when we moved there 30 years ago. There are no farmers there now. This is a farming community... with a slight drinking problem," she adds, to that infectious laugh from her husband.
 
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British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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Interesting stuff there Tony, a lot that chimes with things I have heard from hard working people

The village that we came from in England was very twee


So why move 1,625 miles (2,616km) to this?

"We could do what we want to do

I've hears similar sentiments from lots of guys (and girls) tired of the feeling that everything here is over sanitised and over regulated. I think the frustration is that people cannot "carve out" a better life from sheer hard work here any more.
 
Nov 29, 2004
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"...the feeling that everything here is over sanitised and over regulated..."

The "over-regulation" thing isn't necessarily missing over in this neck of the woods, however it frequently ignored or 'bypassed' if you know the right people and 'make them happy' in some way. Additionally the 'regulation' can come in to play after you completed all the work that you were assured "would be fine", this is only fair as how else would town councillors be able to afford their new BMWs. :)

The media often refer to these parts of Europe being much poorer than the West, however much of the visible poverty is simply poorly maintained infrastructure and housing, there is wealth there, its just being squirrelled away elsewhere.

If you fancy moving to these places, make sure you or someone in your family are fluent in the language. Travel there many times before the move, travel around different regions. Understand the history of the place, and find others who have gone before, meet them and ask about there experiences.

Hungary has had a very mild winter this year and as we get most of our energy from the Ukraine lets hope the winters remain mild until the current situation plays out. There are not nearly enough trees to keep everyone warm in any of these countries.

Edited to add:

Make sure you have a good set of DIY skills. Builders, developers and tradesmen around these parts are laughably under skilled and unreliable. :)

Edited to add:

You might also think about moving to Germany, which places no restrictions on European citizens either living there or buying property, has an easier language to learn, spends money on the infrastructure, has decent health care etc. etc.

It might seem more expensive tax wise, but I reckon you'll make a saving long term.

German regulations will also require you to build a house (or renovate one) so that it won't catch fire, won't electrocute you and won't vent energy into space. :)
 
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TeeDee

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Nov 6, 2008
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Whilst this appeals to me , the Missus would rebel! Mostly I miss the possibility of a property with adequate land attached to be able to actually DO something.
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
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Nothing like inside track info - thanks Sandbender.

I'm too old for it now - but I wish I'd done it years ago
 

Joonsy

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Jul 24, 2008
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Interesting post, thankyou. There was a time (pre 1980s) when people could do a similar thing to those in that video while still ‘remaining’ in the UK, years ago many rural places had cheap properties and many were left in dereliction for years because they were not in demand at all then, in fact it was mostly people looking for a cheap alternative way of living that sought them out, then came the English obsession with rapidly inflating house prices and suddenly the old ruin in the country became sought after only to be turned into a ‘luxury’ 4-5 bedroom executive house, when old ruins became scarce attention was turned to old barns for conversion, it got ridiculous any old pile of bricks or old tin shed became a target as prices soared upwards. The trouble is most of those developers were not country lovers after cheap alternative living but profiteers seeking out financial gain and they ruined opportunities for people not driven by money and changed the social fabric of country life.
 
Nov 14, 2013
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Whilst this appeals to me , the Missus would rebel! Mostly I miss the possibility of a property with adequate land attached to be able to actually DO something.

Haha we are one and the same, i think my Mrs would practise her wood carving on me if i put that forward as an option.
 

Andy BB

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Apr 19, 2010
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When I was working over there, I asked the local factory manager how much it would cost for a house and about 10 hectares of land running down to the Danube in Northern Bulgaria. He said the land there would be peanuts, although not many houses out there in the wilderness. His most tleling comment was "But why on earth would you want to do that? No facilities or action!" He couldn't understand why anyone would like the peace and quiet of a remote area.

Food etc is ridiculously cheap - even meals in "posh" restaurants were only a few quid, and the quality of the fruit and veg was spectacular. But it would really help if you had the ear of an influential local though....
 

Kerne

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Dec 16, 2007
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I knew a guy who bought a ski chalet in Bulgaria before they joined the EU. Spent all the time he could over there doing it up and now spends a lot of the year out there. Loves it. Don't want to get controversial but it seems to me that we are less adventurous than many of our EU neighbours - and less likely to see things like this as opportunities.
 

Tony

White bear (Admin)
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Yeah, I agree, I think that for all our dissatisfaction about the UK and other countries t's not actually bad enough to move sticks for, there's always family as well, I personally tend to think that If I move too far I'll not be abel to see the family much and even though I probably could afford it I tend to get stuck in the mentality that i'd not be abel to afford traveling back and forth...Moving that far away is a big deal for most...I've lived in Belgium, Holland, Canada, Scotland, England and Wales and still I'd need a very good reason to move....Now If I had a load of mates over there and my wife had friends and there were kids for my kids to grow up with that could be a completely different kettle of fish.

We have family in Canada, they've got 600 acres, we could have a 4 acre plot on the ranch for peanuts and we could qualify points wise etc and we've thought about it loads but their kids are grown up and that just scuppers it for us, I'd love to though Southern Alberta 30 minutes from the rockies, 30 minutes from the US...
 
Nov 29, 2004
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"...hat i'd not be abel to afford traveling back and forth..."

It is a very important consideration. As things stand I can catch an early flight from Budapest direct to Edinburgh and be in Perthshire just as lunch is laid on the table for less than £70.

:)
 

Dave

Hill Dweller
Sep 17, 2003
6,019
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I think the frustration is that people cannot "carve out" a better life from sheer hard work here any more.

I think thats entirely accurate.

Its also completely understandable for the many people in this boat to feel very angry and ask why should I have to move?
 

Parbajtor

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Feb 5, 2014
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I knew a guy who bought a ski chalet in Bulgaria before they joined the EU. Spent all the time he could over there doing it up and now spends a lot of the year out there. Loves it. Don't want to get controversial but it seems to me that we are less adventurous than many of our EU neighbours - and less likely to see things like this as opportunities.

The thing is, most of the time we complain about over-regulation and beaurocracy as the reason why we don't get particularly adventurous, but in the vast majority of cases it's the social obstacles of friends/neighbours/complete strangers that shoots things down in flames. "That'll never work" Armchair critics, Professional NIMBYS, people who like to voice official objections because it somehow makes them feel "important", I swear that if someone decided to "improve" an area there'd almost instantly be a campaign to "save our spoil heap/middings tip/slag pile/slum" etc. Particularly if it's hung off some kind of "Think of the Cheeldren" appeal.
Come up with an idea (doesn't matter what the idea is) voice it and watch the crowd of "experts" gather to tell you why it won't work. Particularly appealing are the ones who say "It's not me, but other people won't like it because......"
 
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Joonsy

Native
Jul 24, 2008
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there's always family as well, I personally tend to think that If I move too far I'll not be abel to see the family much

i once fell into the trap of not moving because of family ties, however less than two years after my decision to stay they moved themselves anyway and i then came to regret my original decision.
 

mrcharly

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 25, 2011
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At 22 I moved from Australia to the UK, leaving my parents and brother behind. Although I love the UK, the pain of separation from my parents (and the pain it caused them) has never left me.
 

boatman

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Feb 20, 2007
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Why wouldn't hard work bring rewards? If you have a goal and work for it then you might achieve it. If you are working "hard" on your own smallholding who is going to come and sequestrate your woodpile or any other fruits of your labour. Of course if in public service in the lower echelons no amount of harder work is going to bring any more rewards except perhaps to avoid the next round of redundancies.

Much too much pessimism about prospects in the UK. Think how nice it is to live in a country where you don't have to find bunce to get your phone/electric etc connected. How nice not to have to bribe a doctor to see you or the tax office to help sort out your affairs. How good it is not to live somewhere that might arbitarily rezone your house or decide that the planning consent legally sealed and delivered wasn't really legal so your house must be torn down or perhaps sold to the cousin of the planning officer.
 

Badger74

Full Member
Jun 10, 2008
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Ex Leeds, now Killala
Not to the extremes of Bulgaria, but my plan is to sell up and move to Ireland. I have been visiting the particular area for years and its the home of distant relatives that we as a family get on with. I get the do it upper house, with a big garden (circa an acre if I get the house I want), the kids get a more rural way of life and chickens, and the wife gets a de-stressed husband who now has access to fishing, shooting, beach, sea, canoeing, surfing, woods, hill walking......


By the way I live on the outskirts of Leeds and my house is for sale, good motorway connections, good schools.....
 

Huon

Native
May 12, 2004
1,327
1
Spain
At 22 I moved from Australia to the UK, leaving my parents and brother behind. Although I love the UK, the pain of separation from my parents (and the pain it caused them) has never left me.

Me too. From NZ and at the same age as you.

Lots of pain due to separation from family but I think I did the right thing.

I'm glad I haven't tied myself to my family. I hope my own kids feel the same way.
 

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