any one got one? whats the blade thickness and hardness, any idea of weight? and are they a full-length stick tang?
cheers
J
cheers
J
mora 120 woodcarver any good?
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Yes, yes, 2.5mm, Rc 60 at a guess, light. yes.
I have two 120s, and I have just bought 4 for my local community woodland. I think they're 2.5mm thick, and they're made out of a laminated steel. The centre core is Rc 60 or higher, and this is supported by the softer sides. They are lightweight, I'd guess 60 grams or less. They are indeed a full length stick tang (and you can see the end of the tang at the back of the grip).
I think they're great, but I prefer the longer bladed 106.
Cheers
I have two 120s, and I have just bought 4 for my local community woodland. I think they're 2.5mm thick, and they're made out of a laminated steel. The centre core is Rc 60 or higher, and this is supported by the softer sides. They are lightweight, I'd guess 60 grams or less. They are indeed a full length stick tang (and you can see the end of the tang at the back of the grip).
I think they're great, but I prefer the longer bladed 106.
Cheers
robin wood
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
+1 on what Ian said, 120 excellent little knife but 106 even better. It's not a bushcraft knife, it is a perfect woodcarving knife.
Sorry to hijack, but how does everyone find the spoon knives? I've heard they're not as good as they could be. Or did I hear wrong?
Unfortunately you heard right.
Frosts spoon knives are made out of a good, high carbon steel which is well hardened and tempered. Both the blade shape and the grind are somewhere between 'bad' and 'woeful.' If you know what you're doing, you can tune a 164 up to a fairly good, right handed, knife, but it takes a fair amount of time. The 162 and the 163 are well worth leaving alone.
There are several British makers and three Swedish makers who make knives which go from 'good' to 'superb.' I'd strongly recommend them rather than Frosts.
Cheers
Frosts spoon knives are made out of a good, high carbon steel which is well hardened and tempered. Both the blade shape and the grind are somewhere between 'bad' and 'woeful.' If you know what you're doing, you can tune a 164 up to a fairly good, right handed, knife, but it takes a fair amount of time. The 162 and the 163 are well worth leaving alone.
There are several British makers and three Swedish makers who make knives which go from 'good' to 'superb.' I'd strongly recommend them rather than Frosts.
Cheers
Hi all,
I'm new here, but actually just got two Frosts, so...
One is a 122 (curved back (?), straight edge, so not quite the same thing), and it came out of the package ready to go. I've touched it up a bit, and it's even better. The other, a 164, I think (it wasn't marked in any way), not so much. The edge actually felt like it was slightly rolled in the direction of the bevel. Fortunately, I've been learning to sharpen curved blades, and had put in a lot of time on a modified hoof knife I had, so putting an edge on this one was quick, and once I had it, it was great!
Admittedly, I'm new to this, but so far I'm very happy, especially for the price.
Frode
I'm new here, but actually just got two Frosts, so...
One is a 122 (curved back (?), straight edge, so not quite the same thing), and it came out of the package ready to go. I've touched it up a bit, and it's even better. The other, a 164, I think (it wasn't marked in any way), not so much. The edge actually felt like it was slightly rolled in the direction of the bevel. Fortunately, I've been learning to sharpen curved blades, and had put in a lot of time on a modified hoof knife I had, so putting an edge on this one was quick, and once I had it, it was great!
Admittedly, I'm new to this, but so far I'm very happy, especially for the price.
Frode
If you want a spoon knife, go to Dave Budd. The blade shape is much, much better. Far more versatile.
The 920 is worth a look too, same blade but a moulded plastic handle designed by Willie Sundqvist that is spot on in use, if not overly pretty.
I have a Mora 120 but hate the evil little thing - I barely have to look at it and it cuts me
. It's a nice looking, well made and very sharp knife for the money but its too small for my needs (making big bowls) and for some reason that small blade keeps finding its way into my flesh. When I first got it I dropped it and bent the point but I was able to repair it. I sharpened it a couple of nights ago and was pleasantly surprised to get a mirror finish on the bevel, only to have it slip straight into my flesh again! The plastic handled version may well be more controllable and is probably worth considering (perhaps I should flatten the wooden handle?). Was thinking of getting the larger 106 but can't decide whether it will be easier to handle (like its big brother Frost Clipper bush knife) or whether it will take bigger chunks out of me, like its little brother. (I'd welcome suggestions/recommendations.)
Once drawn, it must taste blood before it is returned to its sheath...
. It's a nice looking, well made and very sharp knife for the money but its too small for my needs (making big bowls) and for some reason that small blade keeps finding its way into my flesh. When I first got it I dropped it and bent the point but I was able to repair it. I sharpened it a couple of nights ago and was pleasantly surprised to get a mirror finish on the bevel, only to have it slip straight into my flesh again! The plastic handled version may well be more controllable and is probably worth considering (perhaps I should flatten the wooden handle?). Was thinking of getting the larger 106 but can't decide whether it will be easier to handle (like its big brother Frost Clipper bush knife) or whether it will take bigger chunks out of me, like its little brother. (I'd welcome suggestions/recommendations.)Once drawn, it must taste blood before it is returned to its sheath...
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Eh up Jonny,
Think I have one in my "will be parting with soon" drawer if you want to drop me a line
Think I have one in my "will be parting with soon" drawer if you want to drop me a line
MarcelXL, your avatar just reminded me. The Mora 120 is actually quite good for skinning deer, being short (so as not to go too deep), sharp, precise and with its natural flesh cutting tendency/blood-lust . I took a decent sized male roe deer from dead to joints in the freezer, mainly using the Mora 120, plus an extremely large (meat) carving knife and a large hacksaw, and possibly my favourite, Frost Clipper. (I didn't kill the deer.)
. I took a decent sized male roe deer from dead to joints in the freezer, mainly using the Mora 120, plus an extremely large (meat) carving knife and a large hacksaw, and possibly my favourite, Frost Clipper. (I didn't kill the deer.)
rancid badger
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
106 is the one to go for, unless you're particularly after a small carver.
very good indeed but shop around.
cheers
Steve
very good indeed but shop around.
cheers
Steve
MarcelXL, your avatar just reminded me. The Mora 120 is actually quite good for skinning deer, being short (so as not to go too deep), sharp, precise and with its natural flesh cutting tendency/blood-lust
I will remember that but alas, that one in my avatar is a big rubber 3D archery target!
(and they take some gutting!)
I actually found a need for my Mora 120 yesterday, when carving the bowl of my spoon. My Mora hook knife was struggling with some of it (stropped but probably not as sharp as it was new after being used to smooth out two big, hard beech dough bowls) and the razor sharp 120 was handy for removing some of the wood inside the bowl and clearing "blockages" caused by cutting too deep with the hook knife. I tried using for some small details too but not so pleased with it in that use - the 106 is far more versatile. I ended up using a longer Swiss army knife blade for final detail - but that too was inferior to the Mora 106.
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