Anyone know where I can get hold of some (actually, one...) of these things?
Many thanks for any help.
Richard
Many thanks for any help.
Richard
Metal wedges for fitting axe handles?
- Thread starter Tiley
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Wood is better.
The day that you have to remove the handle remains (because you broke the handle), you will curse and curse yourself for using a metal wedge.
If you use wooden wedges, you can just drill them out.
The day that you have to remove the handle remains (because you broke the handle), you will curse and curse yourself for using a metal wedge.
If you use wooden wedges, you can just drill them out.
Ditto here mate. The wooden wedge will spread the upper part of the haft, and the metal will hold it fast. Unless you soak the heads in linseed, the wood will expand and contract if exposed to dry or wet conditions accordingly, hence a metal wedge will mitigate the wooden wedge coming loose to a degree.
I've never had an issue with removing an old haft with a metal wedge, there's still space to drill out around the edges if need be.
I agree with Silverhill but you don't have to put the metal wedge in straight away. You can use the axe for a bit first to see if it settles in then drive the metal wedge in if needed. They're not essential.
I bought a new hatchet handle but even after sanding it down quite a lot, it's REALLY tight on the head - the slot that was cut to take a wooden wedge is completely closed up - should I knock it off again and make it looser or just hammer in some metal wedges?
Although I am in no position to make suggestions, it seems to me that the wooden wedge, because of its size, is supposed to push a larger surface area of the handle into the metal of the axe head. Then, the metal wedge seems to lock it all off securely. If that is the case - and, coming from me, it's a pretty big "if", then I would knock it off, make it looser and try again, using both wooden and metal wedges. As I said, I'm no expert - I offer the suggestion as 'observant idea' - nothing more.
I think I will try the combination myself. If it's good enough for Gransfors and Wetterlings, it'll be good enough for me and my rather beautiful Nic Westermann axe head.
On, on!
If it's a bought wooded wedge, they tend to be a bit thick....they also tend to be made out of a fragile wood....
I'd knock the head off, tidy up the handle, if necessary open up the slot a wee bit and re-wedge with a wedge which is about the right size (150 - 200% of the slot width works for me) and a decent material. Oak is good, but I've had success with American Black Walnut (all I had lying around). I'd then add a metal cross-wedge
Cheers
I'd knock the head off, tidy up the handle, if necessary open up the slot a wee bit and re-wedge with a wedge which is about the right size (150 - 200% of the slot width works for me) and a decent material. Oak is good, but I've had success with American Black Walnut (all I had lying around). I'd then add a metal cross-wedge
Cheers
Knock if off, the fit should not be too tight that's the wedges job. I used to smear a bit of pva on my oak wedges, they never came loose.
Failing a local Agri store - do you have a 'magic shoppe' locally? I've yet to find a town that doesn't have one of these... it's normally the one with all the hammers, drill bits, hacksaw blades and augers in the window. Ours looks like this...
...always seems to have whatever it is you need.
...always seems to have whatever it is you need.
Only put it in when your sure Its right Tiley! I have some that I have yet to use; if holds tight with a wooden wedge I would be happy with a that; if it comes loose later then you can use your metal wedges. I always soak in boiled linseed though that seems to help them to stay put.
ATB
Nic
ATB
Nic
I have a Husqvarna Hatchet that I just received. Do you think the metal wedge being so far off center is a cause for concern? I have not used the hatchet yet. Below is a link of an photo I took of it.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/338/imag0671p.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/338/imag0671p.jpg/
Way late but...
http://shop.tcv.org.uk/shop/category?l=level3;lid=24
Use a wooden wedge, and then a metal one perpendicular.
If need to rehaft, it's usually not much trouble if have a nail puller, that can grip the metal wedge, and lever it out.
http://shop.tcv.org.uk/shop/category?l=level3;lid=24
Use a wooden wedge, and then a metal one perpendicular.
If need to rehaft, it's usually not much trouble if have a nail puller, that can grip the metal wedge, and lever it out.
Not at all. The wooden wedge supplies the force to hold the handle into the head. The metal wedge is just there to stop that wedge from moving. If it were to move, as its a wedge shape it will work its way out. If this happens the head will come loose and your in trouble. A metal wedge is just to hold the wooden one. It will not spread the wood enough to effect the fit. As such fit it straight away or not at all. Fitting it later defeats the point. If your wood wedge does come loose fit a new one then put the metal one in.
An axe is a fabulous tool but deserves more respect that any other you will carry. It can do far more damage than any other tool you have (knife included), both to you and those around you. Treat it well and ensure the head is always secure.
My thoughts, ramblings anyway
If you need to remove metal weges theres a methord where you drill a small hole into the metal wege then screw a screw into it you can then remove the wege useing the screw for leverige. O and on ebay you can get a pack with metal and wooden weges ive used myself and would recomend them
I use vine eyes or other people's discarded chisel blades for wedges - never had a problem drilling out the wood around the wedges to renew handles
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