Messed up my knife, please help!

[Zammo]

I appear to have messed up my knife. I bought a drill stand to help me drill holes straight but unfortunately my useless cheapo drill didn't fit into it. So I decided to take the plunge and drilled the holes without it, on one scale. On the other I actually clamped the blade to the scale and drilled through the metal holes of the blade into the wood, so I knew they'd be lined up.

Unfortunately now when i've gone to slot the whole lot together the holes I done freehand are slightly slopping (in particular one of them, see below) and when I go to fit the knife together I can't.

What would be the best course of action?

1. Drill the metal knife holes with a larger drill bit, so the pins can move around a bit and hopefully allow me to assemble it straight.

2. Drill the wonky hole a bit.

3. Get some more wood and start again (bit of a pain as i'll also need to get some vulcanised fibre).

4. Another idea I haven't thought of.

Heres some pictures of the mess:

The scale on the right is the one I used the knife as a template to drill the holes, and does appear to have straight holes.

This picture shows what happens when I try and assemble the knife. Namely the scale on the left's top hole is slightly on an angle and so I can't push it together.

Thanks.

 

[Hoodoo]

Personally, I would get some more wood and start over. And get a drill that fits the stand.

The old saying is, any job worth doing is worth doing right.

 

[scoops_uk]

Get some new wood and start over.

You'll feel more satisfied when you've finished if you've done the job right rather than bodging it.

Scoops

 

[AJB]

Hey Zammo,

No advice, just sympathy as I am a measure twice, cut once, then through it away kind of person!

Better luck next time.

 

[bent-stick]

Write off the scales to experience. Tough to do but anything else is a kludge and won't be satisfying.

Try this next time:

Clamp a scale to blade
Drill from blade through scale
Locate the holes with the pins flush on the blade side
Clamp on the other scale
Remove one of the pins
Drill through from the drilled scale side to the undrilled making sure you don't waggle the drill and make the already drilled hole bigger *
Replace the first pin though both scales and blade
Remove the other pin
Drill though from drilled scale (see *)

Everything should then fit together.

Use a hand drill it's more controllable. If you feel you must use an electric drill go slowly checking alignment all the time.

 

[Zammo]

bent-stick thanks for the advice, i'll definately give that a go next time if I can't borrow a bigger drill for my drill stand (haven't really got the money to waste buying a new one).


The next step is obviously going to be shaping the handle, what do peeps on here use to do that?

I only have a multi sander which is rubbsh for sanding off loads of wood and a few files and sandpaper.

 

[bent-stick]

Combination of rasps, files, belt/disk sander, knife, modellers 1" plane,hand sanding .

 

[Zammo]

Looks like I may have to buy one of these puppies with my birthday money.

 

[Snufkin]

Looks like I may have to buy one of these puppies with my birthday money.

Not unless you plan on making loads.
Get a half round rasp, half round iligitimate child file(aren't thought police filters annoying sometimes ) and a half round second cut file. Then progressively finer grades of sandpaper.

 

[bent-stick]

I agree with Snufkin. It's much more satisfying to do it by hand and the machinery works out expensive if it's cost is spread across a few knives. If you are making them to sell they become a bit more worthwhile because they make things go a lot quicker.


Buck and Ryan do millenicut rasps that take of loads of wood without leaving bad toothmarks. They are about a fiver which is cheap for a rasp. My farriers rasps and bahcos are 20 quid a go....

 

[Snufkin]

I agree with Snufkin. It's much more satisfying to do it by hand and the machinery works out expensive if it's cost is spread across a few knives. If you are making them to sell they become a bit more worthwhile because they make things go a lot quicker.


Buck and Ryan do millenicut rasps that take of loads of wood without leaving bad toothmarks. They are about a fiver which is cheap for a rasp. My farriers rasps and bahcos are 20 quid a go....

Also powertools can take off too much wood very quickly, and a split seconds inattention can ruin a knife (and your knuckles). It's probably better to go slowly with hand tools.

 

[rapidboy]

I use sanding drums in a pillar drill for quite a lot of the rough shaping.
Takes off material quickly and in a controlled way.

Some pic's on this thread.
http://www.britishblades.com/home/articles.php?action=show&showarticle=68

 

[Zammo]

It is only £40 so its not going to break the bank, plus I intend to make a few knives, probably not to sell more than likely i'll give them to people as gifts and if I get good enough to sell them, all the better!

I will check out the Buck and Ryan rasps though, beofre I buy it.

 

[Shinken]

Instead of buying the cheap sander get a cheap drill press and buy a sanding drum. That way you can drill your holes straight and shape your knives all with the same machine. BINGO!

 

[weekend_warrior]

Instead of buying the cheap sander get a cheap drill press and buy a sanding drum. That way you can drill your holes straight and shape your knives all with the same machine. BINGO!

That's what I did. I got a Clarke Drill Press from Machine Mart and a drum sander kit from Screwfix. That and pack of wet and dry in all teh usual grades and its all you'll need mate!

 

[mikehill]

You won't need more vulcanised fibre, just open the holes up as it won't be seen anyhow
Mike.

 

[Snufkin]

You won't need more vulcanised fibre, just open the holes up as it won't be seen anyhow
Mike.

Sorry to go OT but is that a Honey badger in your avatar?

 

[Marijn]

The way i stick on and drill scales:

First stick on the spacer like usuall.

Second, stick the scale to onde side of the blade and let it dry completely.

Drill the holes through the scale already on the blade, using the blade itself as a jig.

Then stick on the second set of skales and liner, and wait for the glue on those to harden.

Drill through using the holes already there as a jig.

Epoxy-up the pins and push/tap them through.

Let it set, and finish the handle.

 

[Zammo]

The way i stick on and drill scales:

First stick on the spacer like usuall.

Second, stick the scale to onde side of the blade and let it dry completely.

Drill the holes through the scale already on the blade, using the blade itself as a jig.

Then stick on the second set of skales and liner, and wait for the glue on those to harden.

Drill through using the holes already there as a jig.

Epoxy-up the pins and push/tap them through.

Let it set, and finish the handle.

Thats what i'm going to do next time.

I did do it on one scale but I had already done the first one freehand before I realised I could do it this way, opps.

Looks like all I need is some more scales as I have enough vulcanised material left over from the first time. Just off to ebay to purchase some wood.

 

[Ogri the trog]

Looks like all I need is some more scales as I have enough vulcanised material left over from the first time. Just off to ebay to purchase some wood.

Zammo,
You'll surely get away with using the same fibre liners, you only ever see the outer edge after all. It shouldn't matter if the holes in the fibre are half an inch diameter, its all concealed inside the scales.

ATB

Ogri the trog