Making a Stone Point from a Flake

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Paleoaleo

Member
Dec 16, 2004
21
0
California, USA
As I see there are several of you interested in learning to flintknapp, I thought to post a quick series of photographs depicting the creation of an arrowhead from a flake. The stone is called "dacite." It is a lot like obsidian, but harder and stronger. It forms much the same way - like a volcanic glass.

This is the flake I started with:

Point%20in%20Progress%201.jpg


At first, my goal is simply to make this flake as flat as possible. In the ensuing photos, you'll see bumps and humps and irregularities that I will be trying to remove. I'm not worried about making an arrowhead yet...just making a flat stone.

In this next photo, you'll see a hump on the bottom of the stone. I've created a platform from which to attack that hump. A platform is merely the term given to a place on the edge of the stone that I will use to either strike with a percussion tool, or to push with a pressure flaking tool:

Point%20in%20Progress%202.jpg


That white area is the platform. I've prepared it by using an abrasive stone to grind the edge. Grinding primarily is used to make the edge strong so that it will withstand the strike or the force of the pressure flaking tool without crushing. You want the energy to go into making flake, and not crushing the edge.

In this next shot, You'll see the flake that I took off of that platform. I used a copper tipped batton (percussion flaker) to hit the platform. the photo is a little confusing, as I've turned the piece over in order for the viewer to see the flake that came off. The photo is not very clear, but you can see it right above the arrowhead blank:

Point%20in%20Progress%203.jpg


In this next photo, you'll see that I created a new set of platforms from which to take more flakes. Again, my goal is to make a flat rock at this point, so I'm placing my platforms, and preparing to take flakes strategically, so that I can attack the bumps/humps on the blank. In this photo, the platform is set to take flakes off of the bottom of the piece. Note that the platforms are below the centerline of the arrowhead blank.

Point%20in%20Progress%205%20half.jpg


This next photo is of the same platform - just from the side - so I can illustrate something further about proper platforms. My initial 2 striking areas (platforms) are on the right side of the blank. Notice two important things about those platforms: 1. there is a bevel on top of the platform, as well as on the bottom, and; 2. the platforms are set up along ridges (on the bottom), so that the flake travels down the ridge. Flakes like to travel on ridges:

Point%20in%20Progress%20platform%20side%20view.jpg


In this photo, you can see where I took those two flakes. Again, I turned the blank over so that you can see the flakes and the flake scars (actually only one flake...the other one fell into the waste pile!).

Point%20in%20Progress%208.jpg


Those two flakes pretty much cleaned up this side of the blank. By "cleaned up," I mean that they succeeded in removing bumps and irregularities on the stone. Now this face is flat. I will continue to work around the stone, seeking to make both sides flat and as regular as possible. In so doing, the blank becomes thin.

Here's the other side of the blank. With a few thinning flakes (like above), and some luck, I managed to get both faces reasonably flat, and to get the piece fairly thin. You will note here that I have begun shaping the point a bit.

Point%20in%20Progress%209.jpg


Here's a view from the side. You can see that there is still some irreguglarity, but this will be remedied by pressure flaking. Also in this photo, you'll see that I set up some platforms for my pressure flaker. As before, the platforms are below the centerline of the blank, they have a bevel on top and on bottom, and they have been strengthened by grinding. What you can't see in the photo, is that where possible, the platforms are set for the flake to follow ridges on the stone where possible (note that each flake creates two ridges - one on either side of the flake scar).

Point%20in%20Progress%206.jpg


To finish the point (and I'm cutting corners in this narrative), I just continued around the blank, creating platforms where I needed them to thin the piece, remove irregularities, and to create symmetry from both the edge view, and the front face view.

Here's a photo of the finished point:

Point%20in%20Progress%2010.jpg


From the side:

Point%20in%20Progress%2011.jpg


It's not the thinnest point in the world, and certainly not the prettiest! I know the photos and explanations were lacking. Still, I hope it helps (if only a little bit) give you a better understanding than before.

Here's a final few photos of the tools I use:

Knapping%20tools%202.jpg


These next and final photos show an easy way to make a pressure flaker using some hardened copper wire:

Split%20stick%20pressure%20flaker%202.jpg


Split%20stick%20Ishi%201.jpg


If you have any questions, fire away and I'll try to answer them.

Cheers,

Tom Mills
 

tenbears10

Native
Oct 31, 2003
1,220
0
xxxx
Great tutorial. I just registered on your Paleo site the other day after someone put up a link in a thread here. The site is really interesting and I am now on the lookout for flint.

Is there a good kind and a bad kind of flint and how do you tell them apart?

I look forward to more of your posts Tom

Bill
 

Snufkin

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Oct 13, 2004
2,097
138
53
Norfolk
Tom, excellent tutorial mate :You_Rock_
tenbears10 said:
Great tutorial. I just registered on your Paleo site the other day after someone put up a link in a thread here. The site is really interesting and I am now on the lookout for flint.

Is there a good kind and a bad kind of flint and how do you tell them apart?

I look forward to more of your posts Tom

Bill
From my limited experience the darker flint seems to work best, also try to find stuff without inclusions, these are lighter coloured grainy areas in the flint. You can still use these flints but it is really hard to get a flake to run through them, especially if they are near the edge of the piece. I am very much a beginner knapper and If I have an inclusion I seem to either crush the platform or get a step fracture or hinge.
 

Paleoaleo

Member
Dec 16, 2004
21
0
California, USA
Thanks folks. I was hoping to put together a more thorough tutorial, but it's hard to do the knapping and the photography at the same time. Also, I'm no expert at knapping - just a guy having a good time. I like sharing what little I know with others.

On the flint...the best material is very waxy feeling. If you break a chip off, feel the clean, new surface. The smoother and waxier, the better.

Flint is pretty tough to work with, especially if you're just starting out. What seems impossible at first, may actually be decent stone. Here's a pic of some chert (pretty much the same as flint) from my area here in California. It's very tough stuff, and has lots of fractures. Most of the fractures are healed, and hold together while working it. The best of this stone is very nice and waxy. Some portions are more grainy and don't flake as well. With practice, you can work with both.

In this first photo, the stone was really nice - very waxy and it chipped well:

Mckitrick%20bipoint%202%20best.jpg


This second photo shows the same kind of stone, but with lots of less desirable grainy portions:

Imgp1139.jpg


Despite the grainy stone, you can still work through it. the flakes tend not to travel as far, or as cleanly. It still makes a functional point, however.

In this final photo, the two blades on the outside are this same stone. These were a medium to good quality. The brown one in the middle is flint from Texas.

3%20blades%20in%20hand.jpg


Thanks again for your kind words.

Tom
 

Pict

Settler
Jan 2, 2005
611
0
Central Brazil
clearblogs.com
Very good post. Thanks for taking the time to post such solid information. Flintknappng is an amazingly useful skill to have.

I live in Minas Gerais, Brazil. The states name means "General Mines" if that's any indication of the rich geology here. There is an abundance of quartz all over our hills. Have you ever used quartz as a medium for points? As a kid in Pennsylvania I found many points made form white quartz.

I have access to large clear crystals of pure quartz and was wondering if it is a workable medium for knapping. In the stone shops here they don't give you change, they reach into a box of crystals and offer them instead of coins to make up the difference. Could these be worked into points? Mac
 

Paleoaleo

Member
Dec 16, 2004
21
0
California, USA
Thanks Stuart and Mac. Again, I'm no expert, just having a good time. I nearly gave up working stone shortly after I started, as I was terrible at it at first. In the growing community of flintknappers, I consider myself a mediocre practictioner. It wasn't until I had the benefit of some hands-on instruction that I succeeded in progressing.

Mac, your area in Brazil sounds like a place I'd like to visit! I have seen stone tools made from pure quartz crystal. They are beautiful, appearing much like items made from clear glass. I have never worked with quartz crystal myself however, and can't offer anything about the nature of its workability etc. I imagine that you'd need fairly sizable pieces to make an arrowhead sized object. Especially so if the raw material is thick and chunky (as opposed to thin/flat slabs).

Sorry I can't be of more help in this area.

Tom
 

Pict

Settler
Jan 2, 2005
611
0
Central Brazil
clearblogs.com
Tom,

you're welcome to come visit. Minas is a great place for stone. For example my bathroom and kitchen are done in black granite and it cost me less than formica.

I wasn't a rock collector before I got here but that changed very quickly. I also have never knapped a stone in my life but that may change as well. I know you can grind clear quartz and polish it to any shape you want. It fractures like glass. As far as size goes you can find crystals here large enough for knife or spear points. Ten dollars US would net you a shoebox full.
I'm sure there has to be workable flint here as well. Your post sparked my imagination to start looking. Mac
 

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