Low Budget Full Tang Knife?
- Thread starter Erbswurst
- Start date
Does it have to be full tang? Why?
I know a maker of cheap but high quality knives, but they have a quite substantial tang that goes about 40% into the handle.
I know a maker of cheap but high quality knives, but they have a quite substantial tang that goes about 40% into the handle.
Is there enough time to make the scales and haft a good blade? I've got a much greater appreciation
for the dozen(?) wood carving blades that I've done in recent years.
for the dozen(?) wood carving blades that I've done in recent years.
Yes, Mora, Hultafors, Opinel are the usually to beginners recommended knives, and no question, they do a very good job and give a lot for the money.
But in my opinion a full tang knife is the stronger option. So I ask myself if there aren't a few good offers with full tang, if possible with a nice leather sheath.
But in my opinion a full tang knife is the stronger option. So I ask myself if there aren't a few good offers with full tang, if possible with a nice leather sheath.
I ask theoretically.
I am interested in beginners equipment.
I buy good looking cheap stuff and try it out.
I am constructing a self explaining "plug and play" solution for young beginners, who usually aren't able to make theyr own gear.
I look for stuff that everybody can easily order in the internet and use it directly out of the box.
I am interested in beginners equipment.
I buy good looking cheap stuff and try it out.
I am constructing a self explaining "plug and play" solution for young beginners, who usually aren't able to make theyr own gear.
I look for stuff that everybody can easily order in the internet and use it directly out of the box.
There are cheap full tang knives out there but generally I have found them to be very poor performing, with steel and heat treats that are way off the mark of a proper working tool.
Usually good production knives that are full tang tend to be sold at a premium over good partial tang knives. To get what I say was a capable and well made full tang knife out the box you be looking at spending at least £50. For example a Condor bushlore.
Usually good production knives that are full tang tend to be sold at a premium over good partial tang knives. To get what I say was a capable and well made full tang knife out the box you be looking at spending at least £50. For example a Condor bushlore.
I use Mora ( these days the brand Morakniv) and I am no beginner. Satisfyis all my needs.
Yeah, I do change the handle.
Broken tips of them when I was young and the beer cans were made from steel, maybe a few blades in the join between the handle and the blade.
That happened when they still made them with a rat tail, and a wooden handle.
I do own other knives.
Drawer queens.
You want somebody to learn proper Knife Craft?
Get a Mora with the rat tail. I think they still make them. Classic it is called? Or get a vintage/used one. Several stores in Sweden sell ex Armed Forces Mknives. Cheap.
Yeah, I do change the handle.
Broken tips of them when I was young and the beer cans were made from steel, maybe a few blades in the join between the handle and the blade.
That happened when they still made them with a rat tail, and a wooden handle.
I do own other knives.
Drawer queens.
You want somebody to learn proper Knife Craft?
Get a Mora with the rat tail. I think they still make them. Classic it is called? Or get a vintage/used one. Several stores in Sweden sell ex Armed Forces Mknives. Cheap.
I cannot say I’ve ever broke a mora.
I remember back in the earlier days battoning a piece of relatively hard, dry sycamore for a bow drill hearth using a full-tang, 4mm thick blade Webley (Chinese stainless steel). Was left holding the Webley’s handle whilst the blade of it was partially embedded in the sycamore, 3 feet away. I bashed the blade back out, and continued battoning the wood (very gingerly) with my 2mm thick blade companion - no problem at all, no edge rolling, chips or even dullness to the edge - I think that’s when I knew a Mora could be relied upon.
I remember back in the earlier days battoning a piece of relatively hard, dry sycamore for a bow drill hearth using a full-tang, 4mm thick blade Webley (Chinese stainless steel). Was left holding the Webley’s handle whilst the blade of it was partially embedded in the sycamore, 3 feet away. I bashed the blade back out, and continued battoning the wood (very gingerly) with my 2mm thick blade companion - no problem at all, no edge rolling, chips or even dullness to the edge - I think that’s when I knew a Mora could be relied upon.
Once I bought a cheap oliv green hunting and outdoor knife in Norway, a bit like a Mora in Stile, but probably Asian production. I misused it a bit in the garden and the blade broke, what I hadn't expected.
Later, after I read a lot about the mora companion knife in the internet, I wanted to know it. I put my stainless version in between two logs and broke the blade. That was pretty easy and happend as fast as expected. As you know, the blade is relatively thin.
Yes, I used a Mora classic (carbon steel) many years without breaking it. No problem if you use it as it should be used.
After I lost it in France, I replaced it with an Opinel No8 Carbone without any problems and used it over decades, I just can't remember in which box I put it, so in between I had to buy a new one. (Probably stolen by extraterestic forces, I think you know the problem.)
With my incredible cheap full tang knife, I think I payed round about 10€ 5 years ago, I can do much heavier things than I would try with a mora knife.
Unfortunately it was a home brand of a shop that changed the owner and they don't offer it any more...
Later, after I read a lot about the mora companion knife in the internet, I wanted to know it. I put my stainless version in between two logs and broke the blade. That was pretty easy and happend as fast as expected. As you know, the blade is relatively thin.
Yes, I used a Mora classic (carbon steel) many years without breaking it. No problem if you use it as it should be used.
After I lost it in France, I replaced it with an Opinel No8 Carbone without any problems and used it over decades, I just can't remember in which box I put it, so in between I had to buy a new one. (Probably stolen by extraterestic forces, I think you know the problem.)
With my incredible cheap full tang knife, I think I payed round about 10€ 5 years ago, I can do much heavier things than I would try with a mora knife.
Unfortunately it was a home brand of a shop that changed the owner and they don't offer it any more...
Condor or a good kitchen or butcher knife and make your own sheath or they still do a hunters dadley
in England
in England
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Depends much on what counts as cheap, I suppose, Erbswurst. Condor are an option. I like the Kephart they do. Enzo and LT Wright are worth looking at..
HAve a look for the Otter Outdoor Knife. This is a Canadian link, but it is German manufacture (or brand, at least)
And, my bet is that it wil be cheaper in Europe. Has the great advantage that if you grow out of it for outdoor use, it'll be handsome in the kitchen
http://www.bushcraftcanada.com/products/detail.cfm?product=3243
It is in 1075, a steel I have developed a great liking for. MIght be a thing to look out for in the cheaper LT Wright knives
HAve a look for the Otter Outdoor Knife. This is a Canadian link, but it is German manufacture (or brand, at least)
And, my bet is that it wil be cheaper in Europe. Has the great advantage that if you grow out of it for outdoor use, it'll be handsome in the kitchenhttp://www.bushcraftcanada.com/products/detail.cfm?product=3243
It is in 1075, a steel I have developed a great liking for. MIght be a thing to look out for in the cheaper LT Wright knives
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https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/terava-jaakaripuukko-carbon-steel/56524
Not pretty or delicate, but excellent solid work horses, with a great heat treatment and edge retention.
Their Skrama is an excellent woodland working tool too.
Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk
Not pretty or delicate, but excellent solid work horses, with a great heat treatment and edge retention.
Their Skrama is an excellent woodland working tool too.
Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk
Those knives, I think are a bit thick. All my drawer queens are thick bladed.
I can not use a thick blade, too set in the old ways I suppose....
I can not use a thick blade, too set in the old ways I suppose....
Yes, you are right. Things like Fallknivens, EKAs etc, you got to thin them behind the edge, then they work great. But it not so much the thickness at the spine is the problem, more what's going on for a few cm behind the edge. Even Fallkniven put a slight hollow grind in mid section of their blades at the higher end of their market, like they recognise the problem
Svords are thin 15N20, the Otter is thinner stock too ... under 3mm
Svords are thin 15N20, the Otter is thinner stock too ... under 3mm
Yes, that is a very intelligent and explanatory explanation.
I have two LE Damascener bladed Fallknivar, (never used and never will be used properly)
I will check them out tonight. mybe cut a slice of bread. Using any of the other Fallknivar I have, cutting white bread is like cutting with a axe.
Good idea to thin the blade, but that needs a professional. Goddamn hard steel. I hated sharpening them even.
I have two LE Damascener bladed Fallknivar, (never used and never will be used properly)
I will check them out tonight. mybe cut a slice of bread. Using any of the other Fallknivar I have, cutting white bread is like cutting with a axe.
Good idea to thin the blade, but that needs a professional. Goddamn hard steel. I hated sharpening them even.
I think it really does depend which ones, Janne. The steel they sandwich the VG10 with, (420J perhaps?) is very soft so as to protect the brittler, harder steel inside.Apparently, the first full VG10 blades snapped in the Scandinavian cold, so they went to a softer lamination. Anyway, easier to work. I doubt their damascus blades are soft though 
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