longbow questions

[davep90]

I'm makin a longbow at the moment from a hickory backed lemonwood stave.
Part tillered im ready for rounding the belly off some more but im not sure i i need to add a riser to this side as well as the back?
I also noticed that around the handle area the glue kinda missed and didnt stick, so what kinda glue do i use to fix?

 

[Robbo]

Is it a pre-glued kit?

Also what do you mean by riser, generally long bows dont have a riser section just occasionally a small piece of leather or cork on the back at the grip to pad out the flat back a little.

But if you want to add a riser to it then dont let any preconcieved ideas about whats right regarding long bows stop you, but if the bow bends in the handle any rigid riser (a pad of leather or cork or anything that can flex will be fine) glued on there will pop off as soon as the bow is drawn, unless you've got an exceptional glue joint.

If its a kit I'd consider contacting the maker re the sparse glue if it's between the backing and the lemonwood, if its a DIY bow then I'd probably try and get some warm (runny) epoxy in it and clamp it.

Andy

 

[jon r]

Im not an expert at bow making but the guys here are: http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/forums/18

You'll get an answer to pretty much anything, some people have made hundreds of bows on this forum and are rich with knowledge.

 

[davep90]

Is it a pre-glued kit?

Also what do you mean by riser, generally long bows dont have a riser section just occasionally a small piece of leather or cork on the back at the grip to pad out the flat back a little.

But if you want to add a riser to it then dont let any preconcieved ideas about whats right regarding long bows stop you, but if the bow bends in the handle any rigid riser (a pad of leather or cork or anything that can flex will be fine) glued on there will pop off as soon as the bow is drawn, unless you've got an exceptional glue joint.

If its a kit I'd consider contacting the maker re the sparse glue if it's between the backing and the lemonwood, if its a DIY bow then I'd probably try and get some warm (runny) epoxy in it and clamp it.

Andy

was glued when I bought it. Having worked on it today, I doubt the missing bit of glue will make a difference but in going to epoxy it anyway.
As for the the 'riser' as such it was glued on badly when i got it, but im thinking its gotta come off and be replaced with some fat leather or cork as you suggested. having flexed the bow a little for the first time im sure it will just pop off anyway.

 

[Ogri the trog]

From memory (which is more than a little hazy!)
A normal longbow, is left a little "heavy" through the handle section, which means all the flexing in within the limbs. Bows that flex through the handle are called "lug" bows and can really kick in the hand when shot but they're still a viable bow.
If you are going to glue a broken piece back on, try to get hold of a glue called "caskemite" (IIRC), a powder that you mix with water but when set its stronger than the wood itself and will flex a bit with your drawn bow.

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[Robbo]

I've used cascamite (its also called extramite when made by humbrol) to glue together a laminated bamboo bow, it poppd open at the handle (design flaw on my part) and I ladled in epoxy and its held ever since.

I think cascamite needs a very thin glue line while epoxy can stand a little more sloppyness (no excuses though ). I think either will do

Ogri's right about bows that bend in the handle, they can shock the hand more, its best to tiller them so you can FEEL its bend rather than an obvious visual bend.

Medieval long bows bent though their length whilst when the victorians developed longbow shooting as a 'genteel pastime' they prefered stiff handles for ease of accurate shooting.

I Personally prefer the bending handle bows from a purely asthetic viewpoint, I just like the look of a bow that forms a perfect arc when drawn, or as its known 'comes round the compass'

Andy