Loch Shiel/Glenfinnan

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David Morgan

Tenderfoot
Sep 18, 2004
50
0
Buckinghamshire
Hi Guys. I'm planning to go on my first real wild camping trip in the next couple of months and looking over my Michelin map of Scotland my eye was drawn to the area around Loch Shiel/Glenfinnan; it seems to give the oppurtunity for getting of the beaten track while still being reasonably close to civilisation (for transport, supplies, and for accommodation if I wimp out :rolleyes: ) Any feedback or experience of the area, especially at this time of year, will be most welcome. If it's positive I'll get some more detailed maps for better planning (if I bought a landranger map of every area that looked interesting I wouldn't be able to afford the transport up there!).

Thanks!
 
Read Mike Tomkies books before you go. He lived there for many years in a cottage on the Northern shore called Wilderness. It was only really accessable by a long climb from Mhoidart or by boat from Pollack. He writes about the ferociousness and unforgiveness of nature while he lived there as well as the beauty of wildlife. He allegedly ended up going a little mad when he left the place an old and possibly broken man. He was allegedly last heard of staying down south shooting moths in his living room with an airgun.

I know this place well. (I spent part of my honeymoon canoeing there!)

There is a very ancient trackway down the North shore, a track cut into the hill to take bodies to the burial ground on an island way down the loch. If you are brave, you can try and find it and follow it down. It is no easy task. I've walked some of it and it is definatley not an easy option with bail out clauses. It is one of the most remote hard to reach areas in Scotland by foot. I've done it several times by canoe as it is an over popular canoe trip. Once you are committed to the walk in, there is no easy way out, mobile reception is not available, flares are a must and bushcraft is a no no as most of the ancient woodland is west coast oak and protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest. the woodland is on a very steep rocky mountain side with cliffs and boulder fields with almost no places to pitch a tent.

The south shore is commercial forestry, the kind of which is everywhere in Scotland. There is a forestry track along this side for most of the length of the loch-well from the North until Pollack.

I would not consider this choice a good one. It is not a sheltered place, it is not accessable easily, there are no emergency exits...
 

David Morgan

Tenderfoot
Sep 18, 2004
50
0
Buckinghamshire
Hmm, maybe somewhere else then :( .
My initial thoughts based on the map and a walking guide I have were to spend a night or two in the forest near the A830 a mile or so from Glenfinnan, maybe less than an hour's walk from the town to settle into the outdoor living; then six or so miles down the track on the south shore which looks like it will bring me into the significant forest and a place to camp, with only six or so miles back to my original site or a little further back to town if I can't find anywhere suitable. Then the next day(or day after) another six miles down to Polloch, and, if I feel comfortable doing so having spent some time not being more that a few hours walk from a settlement, exploring up the river that flows into the loch at Polloch for a few days.
But if you still think that even with a cautious approach the area is too much for a first time wild camper, or that the bits that are suitable aren't worth the effort of getting there, then I'm happy to accept your advice Woodsmoke!
Maybe I could open the thread up and invite recommendations for places that would be suitable for the type of approach I've described, preferably with the option of following natural features such as lake shores and rivers (navigating by compass over featurless terrain is definitly an important skill to have but isn't my idea of fun!)

Thanks.
 
The South side would be okay, no worries there. You do realise that there is absolutley nothing at Pollach except a small FC car park and a couple of houses and an information shed? It's a long walk but easily manageable on the forest track. There is no resuply until you either get to Acharacle or A hell of a long walk up a single track road to Strontian? Strontian has a shop and bus service.


Go for it on the south side but be prepared for the windy and very wet weather and a very long walk. It sounds like a good adventure. It's amazing countryside. Pm me and I'll send you some photo's to help make your mind up either way.

Woodsmoke
 

Greg

Full Member
Jul 16, 2006
4,335
259
Pembrokeshire
David Morgan said:
Hi Guys. I'm planning to go on my first real wild camping trip in the next couple of months and looking over my Michelin map of Scotland my eye was drawn to the area around Loch Shiel/Glenfinnan; it seems to give the oppurtunity for getting of the beaten track while still being reasonably close to civilisation (for transport, supplies, and for accommodation if I wimp out :rolleyes: ) Any feedback or experience of the area, especially at this time of year, will be most welcome. If it's positive I'll get some more detailed maps for better planning (if I bought a landranger map of every area that looked interesting I wouldn't be able to afford the transport up there!).

Thanks!

I stayed there when I was a teenager with my Father, and I thought it was a very beautiful area, I know at this time of year, as you would expect, it is probably quite wet but don't let this deter you as I am sure you will enjoy yourself there.

Good luck mate.:)
 

Limaed

Full Member
Apr 11, 2006
1,293
70
48
Perth
Hi Dave
Woodsmoke is right, this is quite a difficult area to wild camp in and as has been said has limited phone coverage. What about a using some of the Mountain Bothies instead and a tent for an adventure?
If you head north from Glenfinnan into Knyodart, then West to Inverie you could have an excellent multi day walk then get the ferry and train back to Glenfinnan (from Mallaig). By using the Bothies you can have a fire and get dry and comfy. I prefer this type of trip as I feel im not leaving any impact on the trail + the Bothies are ready made bivi's :D Hope this helps?
 

David Morgan

Tenderfoot
Sep 18, 2004
50
0
Buckinghamshire
I've got to say, it looks like a trek through Knoydart would take me further from civilisation more rapidly and over more difficult terrain than exploring the south shore of Loch Shiel :eek: . I've done quite a bit of hill walking, especially on family holidays when I was a kid but now I'm more into the idea of covering smaller distances in a day and taking the rest of the day to explore the area i'll be camping in, wildlife watching and the like. That said, camping in an area where there is also a bothy network as a fall-back, or for drying out sounds like a good idea.
 

Limaed

Full Member
Apr 11, 2006
1,293
70
48
Perth
Thats fair enough Dave
Have a look at Peanmeanach ruins a bit further on towards Malliag only about 11/2 hours walk in and right by the sea.
This is a spot on place for wilderness exploration, and the bothy is excellent. Ta Ed
 

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