Linseed oil.. any advice??

[Toddy]

Samon, if you really want the job done quickly, then look for stand oil.
This is linseed oil that has been boiled in airless conditions. The boiling changes the polymerization of the oil and makes for a smoother application.
It does not mean that it has had metals added to it as extra driers.

Tung oil is about the quickest drying, but look for pure Tung (it's a nut from China) oil. It's less liable to mould than linseed and it doesn't yellow the way linseed does either.

cheers,
Toddy

 

[Samon]

How likely is the raw linseed oil to mould? I heard wood preservative at about 15% in the oil will help alot. Also I hear raw soaks in deeper but not as fast as boiled. Can't fine any clear wood preserve in small ammounts..

 

[Toddy]

If you don't leave your knife wet for a while anywhere it shouldn't be a problem.
It's more that folks sometimes use it for fancy food prep knives, cheese knives, steak knives, that kind of thing. It is just a seed oil, not a mineral oil (that's why Ikea sell a mineral oil for their cutting boards and wood surfaces, it doesn't go mouldy)
Once the linseed oil is thoroughly dry it should be fine but it can take a while to dry right through, and subsequent coats limit it the drying of the first layers.
It's 'good for wood' as they say, nourishes it, etc, but it's not the only choice.
I have more stained clothes from the blasted stuff in the boatyard than with anything but Stockholm tar
Smells good though, still can't get it out of heavy silk that was used inadvertantly by a delighted boatbuilder (from a bag I'd left when I went to a lecture at Uni, he was so pleased, this fabric didn't leave a hairy surface ) Can't see where the oil had been on the cloth but years later the smell is still there.

cheers,
Toddy

 

[blacktimberwolf]

Linseed oil is a drying oil in all of the applications you mention Blacktimberwolf....it's exothermic.
If the heat cannot dissipate quickly enough it will burn.

Wikipedia was quoted for the simplicity of it's description.
Will Oxford University Data Safety Sheet do for you ??
http://msds.chem.ox.ac.uk/LI/linseed_oil.html

As a crop the oil is contained within the fibres of the seed, it is not exposed to air, it does not react.

Raw linseed oil on cloth, crumpled up and left somewhere where it cannot give off heat fast enough, is an entirely different matter.

If you wish to be an idiot about it, that's entirely your right, but don't denigrate potential dangers simply because you *haven't seen it happen*.

I have. In a boatshed thirty odd years ago. There was a smell like hot frying on a summer evening, and then a yell from one of the workmen and the apprentice got a clout round the ear that sent him flying. The rag was in a pile of shavings and the whole lot went up. The big kettle was poured over it and the whole soggy lot scooped up and thrown outside on the redash path to dry and then it was deliberately burnt.

Toddy

Idiot, moi, ?........to be honest I have had a look around & found several references concerning rags soaked in linseed oil catching fire. Though rare, it does happen so I am begining to take the possibilities more seriously. There seems to be a certain chain of events neccesary for it to happen, which I don't think will occur with me personally but I will be less dismissive of the risk in the future should I discuss the matter again...as the saying goes ;.".Only idiots, never change their minds." & I've just changed mine.

 

[Samon]

Should be alright then, I don't leave my stuff wet and always clean my kit.

What would varnish do to linseeded wood? Would it change the colour or life of the wood?

 

[mrrivers]

Samon.

if you dilute it with turps, not much, just like you were making a glass of squash. give it a right old shake. then apply with 0000 wire wool, gently does it
then let it dry it will come up a belter, a nice sheen, or polish after its dried for a shine.

do it as many times as you like. it's what i used all the time on unpolished antique wood.

every restorer i know has used this method.

oh and just be careful with the storage of the materials.

 

[blacktimberwolf]

Should be alright then, I don't leave my stuff wet and always clean my kit.

What would varnish do to linseeded wood? Would it change the colour or life of the wood?

No need to varnish,( defeats the object) the oil is more than enough. I feel though you may be applying it too thickly, thin applications will soak in better ( just enough to wet the wood) & dry quicker between coats, soaking it in oil will just make it a sticky mess. hard woods won't absorb it without being rubbed in anyway.. it's not something that can be rushed so gently does it.

 

[Teepee]

Its the combination of oil and rag that causes the problem, not pure linseed oil or the solvents. Solvents actually retard the effect due to reducing available oxygen which is needed for the oil to oxidise. Raw Linseed is a drying oil, just like boiled and is capable of producing enough heat to cause a fire if its given the right environment. The chemistry for this is rock solid and proven.

I'm not a health and safety mad type, just trying to help Toddy stop a nasty unexpected oily rag fire so we have more time for proper campfires.

 

[mountainm]

So what's Teak Oil? Can't find much info on the stuff - but it's the cheapest option...

 

[Teepee]

Should be alright then, I don't leave my stuff wet and always clean my kit.

What would varnish do to linseeded wood? Would it change the colour or life of the wood?

You cant varnish on top of an oil mate, it will fall off. Its a pain too, oil is far better especially as you have already oiled it

 

[Retired Member southey]

The reason behind dunking in oil is to reach the bits your digits can't .

 

[Samon]

The varnish was just a question and I deffinately won't be putting it on. Just rubbed the oil it had been resting in..in, then wiped off/rubbed in with kitchen paper then rag. It's now hanging in my work space by fine wire to let it dry nicely and I have to say it looks lovely! Very rich and dark.

Shouldn't be too long now untill it's all finished!

 

[flexo]

i use home boiled linseed oil,and apply with bare hand! leave it penetrate don't wipe any excess,for first coat

 

[GimpyOlderndirt]

Traditional linseed oil finish is applied; let sit for 30-60 minutes; excess rubbed off:
Once a day for a week.
Once a week for a month.
Once a month for a year.
Once a year forever!