Lauri blades

[heath]

I wonder if anyone could help me, I wanted to post this on BB but it's blocked. I recently bought a Lauri blade for a new knife project but found that the tang has a bevel on it carrying on from the blade. This goes for about 1.1/2" of the tang. The question is how do I get a tight fitting bolster piece when the end of the tang is thicker than the blade end? Can I grind the rest of the tang or will that weaken it? I know I probably haven't explained that very clearly but if anyone has used a Lauri blade they will possibly understand what I'm talking about.
Cheers Heath.

 

[Shinken]

Yes grind it the rest of the way. It wont weaken it because the place where it will fail if it's going to is at the blade tang juncture and since that is already that shape it wont hurt to grind it that shape all the way down

 

[philaw]

I've got a couple of lauri blades and the tangs were all straight. 'sounds like you got a duff one

 

[Shinken]

I dont think its duff, some of them may grinds that dont go all the way to the Tang. Depends on the model

 

[michiel]

I saw some blades withe a "sharpened" tang. Looks normal to me.

Michiel

 

[SOAR]

I've used the Lauri blades before mine had the same grind on the tang as yours, I filed mine with a metal file and the bolster fitted fine, its just a case of filing and trying till it fits flush.

Good luck with it, and remember to post some pics when its done.

 

[brancho]

Thin the tang down as I have had to do a few times with other blades

A good file will do the job and not heat the blade. If you grind it keep it cool and you will be OK.

 

[caliban]

I made a knife with a Lauri blade. I found that I didn't have to taper the tang. Remember the tang tapers in WIDTH from the bolster to the end of the tang. I just drilled three holes in my antler bolster to make a hole as wide as the blade was from the blade back to the beginning of the bevel and then slotted it onto the tang untill it stopped, which was just around wher the tang bevel began. After that it was just a case of using a mini-hacksaw blade and file to slowly widen the bolster and work it down the tang. I assumed that the blades were made with the bevel on the tang at this distance for this reason, but maybe I just got lucky? Good luck!