Landmannaréttir and Laufskálaréttir in Iceland!

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Arya

Settler
May 15, 2013
796
59
39
Norway
I visited Iceland 20th-26th of September, with a group consisting mostly of experienced horse people, but also less experienced and a brave new beginner. Many familiar faces, and some new ones as well :)
I didn´t bring my own camera this time, due to some problems with a couple of my lenses, but I was allowed to borrow photos from a good friend of mine.
14542599_1215861961811732_8932191794536912164_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

We were heading for Landmannaréttir, to join the big sheep gathering of the year. From horseback we moved a herd of almost 4000 sheep over the vast lava landscape. They were to be sorted out by their owners in the end of the journey, and the event gathered quite a lot of people.
It is one of the coolest things I´ve ever experienced! Just the sight of almost 4000 sheep moving over the surreal landscape, almost like one organism, was amazing!

Day 1, the whole group was paired with suitable horses and equipment at Leirubakki, and went for a test ride.
I got a wonderful, hard working gelding named Floki. He was my favorite horse during the whole trip :)

14492340_10153747056291790_6271922780235662034_n by Lykketrollet, on Flickr
Selfie time! Floki and me.

14468775_1215698795161382_6737570782954726191_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr
Our two first nights were spent at Leirubakki, at the foot of the vulcano Hekla.

Day 2, all horses and people were transported to the starting point, were we "ganged up" with the other farms. From here we would move sheep that had already been gathered, to the final destination (around 3000-3500 sheep), the corrals were they where to be divided into their owners pens.
When the large group was in their proper place, and people and horses had their lunch brake, it was time to spread out and gather more sheep from another area. What first seemed like a small group quickly turned into a new, impressive mass of sheep. This was the remaining 500-1000 sheep.
The weather was ever changing, and we rode in sunshine, hail shower, wind and rain. The horses were truly amazing!
When all sheep was gathered, we could finally call it a day. Some went to sleep, and some was already drunk and kept the party going ;)

14525175_1215860921811836_938928972787575806_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

14434878_1215861721811756_6616908911016811438_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr
Moving the big herd of sheep. I am on one of the small dots in the background of the photo.

14434859_1213488125382449_6761139391513317032_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

14480575_1216352998429295_3470722017873256235_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

14445048_1215861451811783_7972490124609463388_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr
Lunch brake, finally!

14524954_1215862351811693_3108974371602301210_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

Day 3, the sheep were driven into the corral, little by little, and sorted out before a new group was driven in. The ones that wanted could join the sorting process, but some of us (including me) was a bit reduced from the previous day. We were happy observers ;)
Man, did we see a lot of beautiful Lopi sweaters/Lopipeysa!
When we were finished tackling sheep and drooling over Lopis, we starter driving towards Sauðárkrókur, stopping by a few typical tourist attractions on the way like Geysir, Gullfoss, the recreation of the viking farm at Stöng, etc.
Some of us were still drunk, and there was a lot of singing in the car...The whole way...
At some point we discussed which one of us should be responsible for strangling the singer, but eventually we arrived at Sauðárkrókur in time. The singer is still alive...

14524541_1215860751811853_6807511498547696117_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

14480713_1215862111811717_2083512219732741727_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

14468735_1215698288494766_2605107359346574156_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr
Look at the badass in the middle, with four horns pointing the wrong way!

14525020_1216353068429288_1125402286304771977_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr
Somebody got lucky in the bottom of Hjálparfoss! A big Salmon!

14468596_1215861631811765_6936954344180677318_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr
One of the buildings at Stöng.

Day 4 and 5, new horses and new equipment. I already missed Floki! We were gathering horses, the same procedure as the with the sheep. First finding the semi-wild horses on horseback and then drive them several miles, into the corrals for sorting.
We joined a mini Laufskálaréttir at day 4, before the big one the day after in Kolbeindalur. This is a big happening in Iceland, and also among Icelandic horse fans all over the world.
The landscape here was lush and farmable, compared to the south. It was like riding in a movie, truly amazing!
We had an incident on day 4, where the free horses broke out of the pen/end station, to follow us on our way home to the stable, so we had to keep an insane speed to keep it all together.
So, instead of being brought to the farm in trucks, the free horses ran all the way "home".
I still marvel at the ridden horses. Hard work in high speed all day, and when they finally think they can rest a bit on the way home, they still have to run for many miles. Several was running on "empty tank", but still managed to cope without collapsing. I felt so bad for them!
But it really shows how strong they are when it matters!

14500200_1215861828478412_2141486261249240539_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

14495412_10208842340828082_647389621713076862_n by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

14480590_1215698425161419_8440669995561399256_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

14448825_10208842401949610_50466403632095095_n by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

14492321_10208844280836581_1604470651448179716_n by Lykketrollet, on Flickr
Finally home with the runaway herd...

14481959_1215698641828064_7361907520067484150_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

14500226_1215861068478488_3868378222763141774_o by Lykketrollet, on Flickr

There was a big party in the evening, and most of us were hung over in the car the next day. The singer had lost her voice, so the trip down south to the airport was blessedly quiet. It was like a zombie bus, several dreaming of their own beds at home.
We had a short stop and lunch at at producer of Eider down. It was really interesting to learn about the process and their life, on the edge of the world. They even had a visit from a polar bear this summer. It was unfortunately put down.
They had a silent, and somewhat medium engaged audience in the hung over norwegians :p

Ah, not to forget! We ate rotten shark on the trip! Stupid gullible tourists, haha!

A wonderful trip in a surreal landscape! The food is great in Iceland, just stay away from the rotten shark!
I hope I get the chance to return some day with my own camera. Until then, I will go out and enjoy the forests here at home that I love so deeply :)
 
Last edited:

bopdude

Full Member
Feb 19, 2013
3,001
216
58
Stockton on Tees
Great pictures and write up, the 'cabin' "One of the buildings at Stöng." looks fabulous, my first real glimpse of Iceland, not what I was expecting although I wasn't sure what to expect.

Thanks for sharing :)
 

Leshy

Full Member
Jun 14, 2016
2,389
57
Wiltshire
This must have felt absolutely incredible! Spectacular scenery.
I mean, riding through that landscape like so many have done before , for centuries... Wow!

The volcano, the terrain and the smell and sound of the horses riding together like this must have put a huge grin on your face...
The horses look fantastic and the cabin at Stöng is just so beautiful.
Thanks for taking us with you for a little while on your adventure.

I can imagine how you felt.
Even just riding out in the woods and hills of Wiltshire , very early in the mornings of Autumn and winter , still make me feel that this is what I'm supposed to do!
'Normal' life is boring and this is the way , the right and only way.
I'd rather be nowhere else at that particular time.
It puts everything in perspective and grounds you into the land.
Cleansing the soul and clearing the mind!


Well done you and thank you for sharing.
Great post
 

Dave

Hill Dweller
Sep 17, 2003
6,019
9
Brigantia
That looks like a great trip. Those little icelandic horses must be as tough as nails. Thankyou. :D
 

wicca

Native
Oct 19, 2008
1,065
34
South Coast
Interesting post Arya, thank you. Spectacular scenery in a really wild landscape and making work fun.. The first photo of the sheep in the distance looks like they are wandering lost on the Moon..;)
 

Arya

Settler
May 15, 2013
796
59
39
Norway
This must have felt absolutely incredible! Spectacular scenery.
I mean, riding through that landscape like so many have done before , for centuries... Wow!

The volcano, the terrain and the smell and sound of the horses riding together like this must have put a huge grin on your face...
The horses look fantastic and the cabin at Stöng is just so beautiful.
Thanks for taking us with you for a little while on your adventure.

I can imagine how you felt.
Even just riding out in the woods and hills of Wiltshire , very early in the mornings of Autumn and winter , still make me feel that this is what I'm supposed to do!
'Normal' life is boring and this is the way , the right and only way.
I'd rather be nowhere else at that particular time.
It puts everything in perspective and grounds you into the land.
Cleansing the soul and clearing the mind!


Well done you and thank you for sharing.
Great post

Ah, you take the words right out of my mouth! Well written!
I also love how close I get to wild animals when my human stench is camouflaged by the horse.

Thank you all for reading, and for not whipping me over my my grammatical errors in the English language! I can see that they are plentiful :lmao:
 

Arya

Settler
May 15, 2013
796
59
39
Norway
The first photo of the sheep in the distance looks like they are wandering lost on the Moon..;)

That was my thoughts to! It looks like we are on another planet, and it kind of felt that way too.
The small lava pebbles, covering the ground, are very similar to hydro granules. They make the same sound, weighs nothing and are full of tiny holes. Weird!
 

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