Kuksa questions

[SamBarefoot]

So I am in the middle of making a kuksa out of green birch wood and I had a few questions that could use some clarifying.

1. If the kuksa is not all one thickness, is it more likely to split when holding hot/cold beverages?

2. Should a finish be put on it (like boiling it in salt water or mineral oil)?

3. If it is boiled in salt water and/or mineral oil, can it be used the next day or does the wood have to dry because it is green wood?

4. I have heard that you do something like drinking cognac or coffee from it the first time, is this just tradition or does it do something to the kuksa?

Sorry for all the questions! Any help would be great!

 

[brancho]

1 its likely to split while drying if theits thick or varying in thickness
2 IMO No its not needed
3 salt water is a modern method of seaoning wood quickly I believe and not nessecary for you place it in a paper bag in a cool place to dry slowly is best
4 tradition

Avoid using the pith and enjoy your work

 

[Sean Hellman]

Sam, in my experience the wall thickness always tends to taper down from the top and gets thicker at the bottom. This adds to stability and also the durability of the kuksa. The thing that will cause it to crack is drying it out to fast in a too hot a place. My wall thickness at the top must be 4mm+ and a maximum of 9mm at the bottom.

If the wood is not treated it will leak, and some woods leak bad. Your dried out kuksa with a good portion of brandy in will soon disappear into the wood and even form a puddle on the table if not drunk quickly. I only want to use natural substances on my wood so I dip the whole kuksa into molten pure beeswax for minutes at a time. This makes it really water and alcohol proof for ever. I only do this when it is really dried out. So I only use mine for cold drinks, put coffee in it and the wax begins to come out of the wood.

I have heard about boiling in salt water, why? can someone explain this to me. The only reason I can see is that it will season the wood faster, as with steaming wood, it drives the sap out and the wood dries much quicker. Why the salt unless you like salty tasting drinks.

 

[SamBarefoot]

I only want to use natural substances on my wood so I dip the whole kuksa into molten pure beeswax for minutes at a time.

I had forgotten about beeswax, I'll probably go for that, thanks!

I have heard about boiling in salt water, why? can someone explain this to me.

As far as I can tell, it is to help strengthen the wood and help it dry quicker...but don't take my word on that. I think drinking the cognac/coffee is to help get rid of the saltiness but I wasn't sure if that was all it was for.

 

[Tiley]

If it's not all one thickness or even if it's too thick, you might find you get drying cracks on it, unless you carve it fairly speedily or wet it and keep it in a plastic bag when you're not working on it. That said, you should be alright with birch; my recent attempt with a bit of beech produced some really annoying cracks, a couple of which went all the way through. This one will be, I think, more 'ceremonial' than practical! I suppose it might be OK for nuts or something similar...

In terms of finishing them, I know it's not very bushcrafty but I've used Liberon Finishing Oil on one or two recent pieces and it has worked brilliantly. It's normally used on wooden kitchen worktops, so it's pretty food- and heat-tolerant. It brings out the grain very prettily too.

I've not heard about the salt option. Seems as though you'd have to enjoy Tibetan tea to make it worthwhile. As for swilling alcohol in it as the first thing you drink - I think that that's tradition, along with the idea that you should only ever make a kuksa or be given one; apparently, you should never buy them - it's supposed to be bad luck.

 

[Mike8472]

I have a kuksa question,

I have just treated myself to one for my camping trips. I know that you can drink coffee and vodka etc in it fine; but when me and SWMBO go camping we always take red wine with us.

Will red wine stain and ruin the cup or will it be ok with just a swill with water and a wipe afterwards?

 

[robin wood]

So I am in the middle of making a kuksa out of green birch wood and I had a few questions that could use some clarifying.

1. If the kuksa is not all one thickness, is it more likely to split when holding hot/cold beverages?

2. Should a finish be put on it (like boiling it in salt water or mineral oil)?

3. If it is boiled in salt water and/or mineral oil, can it be used the next day or does the wood have to dry because it is green wood?

4. I have heard that you do something like drinking cognac or coffee from it the first time, is this just tradition or does it do something to the kuksa?

Sorry for all the questions! Any help would be great!

OK good advice already but here are my answers

1 yes even thickness is good, I think most bushcrafters tend to leave them too thick. 5mm is good. The thing that is most likely to cause splits however is how you cut the blank from the tree and particularly if you have the central pith or any knots in the wood.

2 I just did a blog post on the various options for finishing wood. As said the salt water things is about seasoning not finishing and is not necesary. http://greenwood-carving.blogspot.com/2009/12/what-is-best-oil-for-treating-wood.html

3 you should dry it first and then finish it. Drying only takes 2 or 3 days indoors once it is down to a thin even thickness. Once finished it can be used straight away though depending on your finish it may take a while to cure. Mineral oil never cures and is not the best choice.

4 just an excuse for drinking coffee and cognac.

And re drinking red wine, of coffee, yes they will stain it but in my view the stains picked up through use add to the character.

 

[deeps]

I thought that salt water had a pickling/preservative effect upon wood which is why on wooden boats afloat in seawater the bits that rot are the areas that are soaked in rainwater ?

 

[samthedog]

Drinking coffee from your kuksa will also help seal the wood to an extent. The fine coffee particles and oils from fresh coffee (not instant) will absorb into the wood and over time seal it up.

Paul.

 

[moab]

I was just about to post a kuksa question when i saw this thread, hope you don't mind another question on it?

I understand that the traditional kuksas are made from a birch burl and wondered if there was an easy way to get hold of one?

thanks

 

[Mike8472]

just a question about cleaning.

posts say you should just rinse and wipe with water.
why can't you use washing up liquid?

 

[samthedog]

just a question about cleaning.

posts say you should just rinse and wipe with water.
why can't you use washing up liquid?

The taste for one. The second thing is that it breaks down the oils found naturally in the wood that protect it.

Paul.

 

[robin wood]

just a question about cleaning.

posts say you should just rinse and wipe with water.
why can't you use washing up liquid?

We use kuksas every day at home along with wooden plates, wooden bowls and wooden spoons and wash them in hot water with detergent as you would a wooden chopping board or cooking spoon.

 

[brancho]

I understand that the traditional kuksas are made from a birch burl and wondered if there was an easy way to get hold of one?

Which are you after a burr or a Kuksa?

 

[moab]

Which are you after a burr or a Kuksa?

A burr, I'd like to carve my own one

 

[samthedog]

We use kuksas every day at home along with wooden plates, wooden bowls and wooden spoons and wash them in hot water with detergent as you would a wooden chopping board or cooking spoon.

What type of wood are they made from? I have wooden cutting boards and butcher's blocks and never let them soak in water by submersing them. I will give them a wipe over with a hot cloth and very mild detergent but that is about it. As for untreated / un oiled wood, I just give it a quick rinse and then dry it. I have never seen anyone here in Norway wash a kuksa and they are very popular amongst trekkers and hikers. They will take a black stain from the coffee or tea but to date I have never come across a smelly one.

Paul.

 

[robin wood]

What type of wood are they made from? I have wooden cutting boards and butcher's blocks and never let them soak in water by submersing them. I will give them a wipe over with a hot cloth and very mild detergent but that is about it. As for untreated / un oiled wood, I just give it a quick rinse and then dry it. I have never seen anyone here in Norway wash a kuksa and they are very popular amongst trekkers and hikers. They will take a black stain from the coffee or tea but to date I have never come across a smelly one.

Paul.

Alder, sycamore, beech, maple, ash, birch, all are perfectly fine completely submerged if the wood was cut correctly when the bowl or plate was made.

Back to original request. You need to find someone who is cutting birch trees. Wildlife trusts with heath/moorland and invasive birch are one source. Tree surgeons are another. Don't expect to find a perfect kuksa shaped lump, you need to buy a tree or a log with a burr and cut and shape it yourself. I would advise not working burr wood until you have made several from straight grained wood. Alder burr also makes excellent kuksas.

Here are a few of ours

And these ones were made on one of our spooncarving courses when everyone got carried away with kuksas.

 

[Mike8472]

I've just got my new kuksa and gave it a quick wash and it went dry and rough on the surface.

What can i use to help prolong the life of my cup and stop it going rough?

Someone once told me you could use baby oil on them, is that true?

 

[brancho]

What can i use to help prolong the life of my cup and stop it going rough?

Someone once told me you could use baby oil on them, is that true?

to bay oil all that perfume

IMO just use it and it will look after itself if you keep it clean.

 

[robin wood]

I've just got my new kuksa and gave it a quick wash and it went dry and rough on the surface.

What can i use to help prolong the life of my cup and stop it going rough?

Someone once told me you could use baby oil on them, is that true?

This is an interesting question. I am guessing that your kuksa was a standard machine turned one with a smooth sanded finish. These feel smooth when first finished but when you get them wet then dry the grain raises leaving it feeling rough. It is a standard problem with any sanded surface and the reason I prefer to leave a tool cut finish.

To keep a good sanded finish you need to get some very fine paper, maybe something like 400 grit and hand sand it lightly. You are not trying to remove all the surface just the rough bits of grain that have raised. Now wet it and let it dry again and sand lightly again. Then oil it. I did a blog post about the pros and cons of different oils here. http://greenwood-carving.blogspot.com/2009/12/what-is-best-oil-for-treating-wood.html

Then whilst it is still wet with the oil sand lightly, this will only work if there is plenty of oil, just a little oil and the paper will all clog up. Finally wipe off the excess oil. Once this is dried it should not go rough again.