Kuksa questions

[Mike8472]

thanks robin wood i'll give it a try tomorrow

 

[SamBarefoot]

If I use walnut oil, will the drinks that come from the kuksa have a walnut hint to it?

I might give the salt water a try...anyone know what salt to water ratio to use? I'm assuming lots of salt.

 

[stevec]

hi robin, been reading your blog, i used to use the ikea stuff, but have since put some wallnut oil on my kuksa, hopefully in time this will sort it out. i was going to try and post on your blog but don't have a google account see what i was going to post below!

Hi Robin, about there being no indication of what other products are in the wood finishes. the info you get should depend on your class of usage. if its business/research then you should get an MSDS the first time you buy it, and the supplier must be able to give you a copy if you request one. 71-43-2 108-88-3 these numbers are the CAS numbers if you didn't know, and can be searched for online.

stevec

 

[robin wood]

If I use walnut oil, will the drinks that come from the kuksa have a walnut hint to it?

Yes it would and that taste would last until the oil is fully cured which can take several weeks or even months. You have the choice of waiting until the oil is fully cured before you use it or just using it from day 1. I do the latter and I don't mind the faint hint of oil taste, it gets less each time you wash it.

hi robin, been reading your blog, i used to use the ikea stuff, but have since put some wallnut oil on my kuksa, hopefully in time this will sort it out. i was going to try and post on your blog but don't have a google account see what i was going to post below!

Hi Robin, about there being no indication of what other products are in the wood finishes. the info you get should depend on your class of usage. if its business/research then you should get an MSDS the first time you buy it, and the supplier must be able to give you a copy if you request one. 71-43-2 108-88-3 these numbers are the CAS numbers if you didn't know, and can be searched for online.

stevec

Thanks for that, I didn't know. I have in the past bought boiled linseed for use outdoors where I wanted a quick cure, I am not sure what my local agricultural merchants would think if I asked them for the CAS numbers or MSDS, might be interesting to try.

 

[stevec]

hi robin, you only need to ask for the msds (material safety data sheet) the CAS(chemical abstracts service) number is assigned to nearly every chemical that has research done on it. if you try searching for either of the numbers you had and you'll get the info for those chemicals, they relate only to one chemical, so they are good as there is no confusion with naming (toluene/methyl benzene etc)

try this https://extranet.fisher.co.uk/As400msds/msds?productCode=L/1950/17
it should be an MSDS for linseed oil from Fisher Scientific
failing that
https://extranet.fisher.co.uk/insight2_uk/getProduct.do;jsessionid=615BEDA7A01A6C766E1FCB6EDE398542.uklbhja24p?productCode=L/1950/17&resultSetPosition=2
this should be the order page for the oil and you should be able to get the msds from there, on a tab


if you search for
8001-26-1
you will find linseed oil as that is the CAS number for it

best regards
steve

 

[Broch]

It is my understanding that the salt water treatment draws water out of the wood - the chemistry of it is all to do with Osmosis (if I remember my school lessons properly) - water will move from a less concentrate solution (the wood) to a more concentrate solution (the brine). I think the same process applies to drying fish. For that to work (and I've never tried it) I assume that the salt solution will have to be quite strong.

Cheers,

Broch

 

[Tiley]

This is an interesting question. I am guessing that your kuksa was a standard machine turned one with a smooth sanded finish. These feel smooth when first finished but when you get them wet then dry the grain raises leaving it feeling rough. It is a standard problem with any sanded surface and the reason I prefer to leave a tool cut finish.

To keep a good sanded finish you need to get some very fine paper, maybe something like 400 grit and hand sand it lightly. You are not trying to remove all the surface just the rough bits of grain that have raised. Now wet it and let it dry again and sand lightly again. Then oil it. I did a blog post about the pros and cons of different oils here. http://greenwood-carving.blogspot.com/2009/12/what-is-best-oil-for-treating-wood.html

Then whilst it is still wet with the oil sand lightly, this will only work if there is plenty of oil, just a little oil and the paper will all clog up. Finally wipe off the excess oil. Once this is dried it should not go rough again.

Having done this, if you want a supremely smooth finish on your work, you can 'bone' it. This involves rubbing your carved piece with a polished pebble, glass marble or very smooth piece of bone across the grain to flatten out any of the grain that is still standing proud. You end up producing a very smooth surface indeed and one which works well with hot food and/or drinks.

 

[Melonfish]

Quick question on walnut oil, is any commercial walnut oil acceptable or is there a particular kind.
also once treated i take it we would not be giving said item to a nut allergy sufferer?

 

[SamBarefoot]

Can't find any walnut oil in the grocery stores near me...anywhere else you could buy it?
I might just use mineral oil but I don't think it will make the grain stand out...anyone know?