KMFS VANTAEDGE INTEGRAL SHARPENER

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ijohnson

Tenderfoot
Mar 10, 2024
64
59
uk
Has anyone used one of these sharpeners and have any feedback on it?
Or have other recommendations for something similar?

To my eternal shame I am only just passable at freehand sharpening and would like something that is quick, effective, repeatable and requires minimal talent or practice to perfect. Wondered if this might be it?

KMFS-VAN-INT__15364.1716901778.1280.1280__59652.1716985381.jpg


 
Limits you to a minimum of 15dps, which is about 2.5dps steeper than I think you should be sharpening for bushcraft.

Hell of of a lot of money for something that isn't infinitely variable and cannot sharpen a 25 degree edge or less. Or sharpen an axe....and cannot be taken into the field.


"...would like something that is quick, effective, repeatable and requires minimal talent or practice to perfect."

"In a world whose only quarrel with instant gratification is that it takes too long, we are practitioners of a dying art: patience."

"The more you know, the less you carry."

For that kind of money you could get a bunch of great water stones and diamond plates, some cheap knives, and several litres of tea, and just practice till you are less ashamed ;)

Sorry, I can't recommend any of the similar devices. The Worksharp Pro goes down low enough, and perhaps the Wicked Edge will too (or one of the Chinese clones), but I haven't used them. The grits look good in the one you linked. Folk too often don't go coarse enough early on, it can take a long time to re-angle an edge or remove a chip with a 400 or 600 stone!
 
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There are lots of interesting ideas out there for jigs...



 
Been doing some reading on this and have a wee follow up question for you @C_Claycomb if you don't mind.

You said this about the KMFS

Limits you to a minimum of 15dps, which is about 2.5dps steeper than I think you should be sharpening for bushcraft.

Been looking at the threads and it seems the Wicked Edge is the most popular of this type but noticed that even it can only go down to 13 degrees.
Do you have any thoughts on this?

I'd love to take your advice about the litres of tea and practice, but I just know it's not going to work for me right now. Maybe when I'm retired and I have more time I'll make it my mission. :)
 
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26 degrees total will work.
I don't have a guided sharpener, but I have a bevel protractor and digital slope meter and have worked out that I like how knives cut wood when sharpened between 24 and 26 degrees. Lower cuts nicely, but tends not to curl wood when you want curly shavings. Steeper curls well, but I don't like where it puts my hand vs direction of force when cutting wood.

Also worth mentioning that I don't generally use Scandi ground blades, so have to control cutting angle on a 1-2mm bevel with more wrist control than if I had an 8-10mm bevel to bear down on.
 
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Has anyone used one of these sharpeners and have any feedback on it?
Or have other recommendations for something similar?

To my eternal shame I am only just passable at freehand sharpening and would like something that is quick, effective, repeatable and requires minimal talent or practice to perfect. Wondered if this might be it?

KMFS-VAN-INT__15364.1716901778.1280.1280__59652.1716985381.jpg




Bit late to the party but I thought I'd shoot you a reply as I bought one of these recently...

Firstly, the comments re limitations in DPS are correct. You can only choose between 15, 17.5, 20 and 22.5 with the included rod, however you can purchase an additional rod which allows for 1 degree increments from 10-29 degrees. I'll be ordering one of these as I have some knives that I want to match the existing bevel angles to.

Some thoughts on how it performs:

The main and only real benefit to the system over any other fixed edge sharpener is what they call 'reverse kinematics'. Essentially the stone will automatically find the selected angle, no matter how you clamp the knife, which means even bevels on both sides and no slight variation between the tip and flat part of the bevel. In reality, whilst this definitely does work, it also takes some practice and requires very slight downward pressure to get the correct registration point. It took me 5-6 sharpening to get this down, but now it's second nature. I would add here that they've now released a spring (which will presumably be included with new kits) that makes this angle registration 10 x easier (apparently).

The clamps work amazingly well as they use spherical bronze bushings and have been able to clamp all sorts of odd shaped blades without an issue. I imagine a small blade with an angle less than 15 DPS may cause problems with the stone abrading the clamps. The benefit of the system is that you can re-clamp and it will maintain the exact angle you've already been sharpening at. I've sharpened pocket knives and chef's knives up to 35cm so far.

It's a compact system and was possibly designed for field use originally (you can hand hold it). The base is very small but has screw holes so I suggest a large piece of wood or metal is used to secure it as larger knives will topple quite happily otherwise... The clamps are free floating on the base, which means you may have to hold the unit steady with one hand whilst you sharpen. This can get quite tiring and awkward if you're doing a few knives so I wish they'd have included a locking mechanism.

The only other issue is that the included diamond stones have a bit of flex when secured so will become ever so slightly convex. They cut very well but long term I'll be using higher quality stones.

Overall it's a beautiful machined and precise unit, and definitely worth the 260 quid I paid. You'll notice that all the other fixed angle sharpeners have a plethora of dials and adjustable rods/knobs. This does away with all of that and makes set-up a breeze.

Feel free to ask questions if I've missed anything.
 
I agree.

A G-shaped clamp might work. If you don't want to make a stand. You can't let the system fall over. Especially when the knife is already sharp. It's not safe.
The stones must be on a metal base. If stone is bent or crooked, you will not achieve a great result.
 

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