only a short reply but most copper pans are made using a technique call raising where the flat sheet is bocked with a mallet into a bowl and then metal sakes an various hammers are used to form the sheet gradually in to the coffee pot of what ever you like
might be some interesting stuff
here
spinning is another technique you could try a wood lathe might just be able to do what you want with a small bolt on mod some info
here
or you could try and use some of the old in smiths joints not got any info on that
but found this
here
How TO SHAPE COOKING VESSELS
It is time for someone to extoll the virtues of the tinned copper cooking vessels, for they are superior in many ways to the enamelware now in general use. A copper pot is practically indestructible. If hurled forcibly down on a concrete floor, it will receive a denting which can be taken out in a few moments with a hammer or mallet. But let an enamelware pot be dropped ever so gently and it is the recipient of an ugly bruise from which radiates a handsome series of line patterns. Between the lines are little chips of glassy material that eventually loosen and fall out, frequently in the food. A set of copper pots is an heirloom which can be passed from one generation to the next, but few enamel pots see more than two or three years' service, so that in the long run copper pots are much more economical. Add to this the rich and handsome appearance of the metal, and the quality of sentiment associated with things formed intimately by human hands.
Copper cooking vessels with flat bottoms and straight sides are either made in two pieces and brazed, or shaped over the stake from a disc. This is held over the stake with the edge of the stake under a circle that is drawn to represent the bottom. The projection to be turned up should not exceed about 3 1/2 ". Taller vessels are best brazed. Drive the metal down with a flat faced wooden mallet (C). Keep turning the disc until the circle is complete. The work will now resemble a ladies' straw hat with a floppy brim. Take up a steel hammer (D) and direct your blows against the junction of the "crown" and the "brim," forcing the brim to give way until the shape is all crown, keeping the work constantly turning. True up the bottom by hammering over a wide, flat-topped stake with wooden mallet, and flat-faced steel hammer or by laying the pot on a hardwood or iron block and working with the same tools from the inside.
The two-piece pots are made this way: Take a piece of copper of a width equal to the height of the pot plus about 3/4", and of a length equal to 3 1/7 times the diameter plus about 3/4". Make a kind of dovetail jointing in the ends and see that they fit neatly. Clean the metal around the joint, and bend your strip to a circular shape, fitting the dovetails into their proper places. Now holding the piece so that it does not spring apart, put it over a stove-pipe stake or a piece of heavy pipe clamped to the bench; hit the dovetails a few light blows with the ball of your hammer (E) to expand them and hold them from moving. Go along the joint tapping gently until it is fairly well closed. Apply a good coating of the brazing mixture on both sides of the joint, put it to the forge and braze.
File and scrape the surplus spelter from the joint. Put it over the stake and tip the end of the cylinder inwards for about 3/4", making a clean flange all round. With a sharp chisel cut another set of dove tails out of this flange. Then put the pot over a disc of copper cut for the bottom and trace the position of the dovetails in the bottom, and fit it, tapping the joint as you did for the side piece (F). Finally apply your paste and braze the joint. When the joints are scraped clean you may planish the pot all over to true it up and enliven the surface. Then you have the question of handles. Single and double handles may be forged out of copper bars bought as scrap from your junk dealer. For the long handles (G) either make a wooden pattern and have them cast at the nearest foundry or buy some ready-made. Use at least two heavy rivets. They are started from the inside of the pot and riveted down over the holes in the handle, on top of a stake.
and if all else fails you could always try hard solder but for a reasonable size pan you will need a very large torch i would have to use both the large gas/compressed air torches i have at achool to do a medium piece and then it would be touch and go
not such a short answer after all
hope this helps
J*
