Help! I've got a box problem...

Tiley

Life Member
Oct 19, 2006
2,364
377
60
Gloucestershire
Carving box is, as I have discovered, just as Dave Budd described it: like carving fossilised butter. Howver, I have a kuksa project that I would very much like to complete.

The outside of it is pretty much done; all that remains is the inside... I have struggled with gouges, crook knives, Indian crook knives, a Dremel and still I cannot get the walls to the desired thickness - or 'thinness'. I did hear about a rifler but am not sure that that would be much help. I also learned about a tool that was shaped like a doughnut and had teeth all the way around it, like a hand-sized, circular rasp. Sadly, I cannot find out what it is actually called and I think that that is the thing I'm after.

Any help in discovering the name of this tool or of any practical suggestions that might help me complete this project (which is meant to be a gift...) would be really, really gratefully received!

Many thanks in advance.

Richard
 

Tiley

Life Member
Oct 19, 2006
2,364
377
60
Gloucestershire
The round, ball-like spiky things look the business. I might give them a go. Many thanks to you both but if there is still anyone out there who can help me i.d. the spiky doughnut thing, that'd be great. I was hoping to do this as hand-made as possible...
 

Kepis

Full Member
Jul 17, 2005
6,837
2,734
Sussex
Something like this?

Carvers Rasp.jpg


http://www.cc-craft.co.uk/circular-half-round-rasp-1-pc.aspx
 

Tiley

Life Member
Oct 19, 2006
2,364
377
60
Gloucestershire
No prob, let us know how you get on with it if you would.

Well, I tried out the circular rasp on the boxwood kuksa I'm making. It was OK but not nearly as efficient as the saw rasp that I used on the outside. It sort of scratches the surface of the wood on the interior of the cup, removing a little in the process, but leaving a series of score marks that are a devil to sand out. It might be something to do with the nature of Buxus sempervirens: it is a very dense, almost waxy, wood on which it is very difficult to get any ready purchase. The fairly spaced out nature of the teeth on the circular rasp and their very pointed shape only allowed the box to be scratched, as I said, rather than effectively rasped. The size of the rasp itself meant that I could only use the narrower end curves in my efforts to remove material. It would appear that, because the rasp was made as a straight bar that has then been heated and bent into shape, the process of bending it made the teeth spread out, leading to the scored surface.

Still, it was worth trying! It might work better with a softer, 'pithier' wood. Once I've finished with this ******ing boxwood one, I might try it out on something a little easier to work. Lime, for instance...!

When (if) I finish it, I'll try and post some photos, though that, in itself, will be nearly as time consuming and frustrating as carving the box! Still, I mustn't be daunted by technology...
 

Kepis

Full Member
Jul 17, 2005
6,837
2,734
Sussex
Well, I tried out the circular rasp on the boxwood kuksa I'm making. It was OK but not nearly as efficient as the saw rasp that I used on the outside. It sort of scratches the surface of the wood on the interior of the cup, removing a little in the process, but leaving a series of score marks that are a devil to sand out. It might be something to do with the nature of Buxus sempervirens: it is a very dense, almost waxy, wood on which it is very difficult to get any ready purchase. The fairly spaced out nature of the teeth on the circular rasp and their very pointed shape only allowed the box to be scratched, as I said, rather than effectively rasped. The size of the rasp itself meant that I could only use the narrower end curves in my efforts to remove material. It would appear that, because the rasp was made as a straight bar that has then been heated and bent into shape, the process of bending it made the teeth spread out, leading to the scored surface.

Still, it was worth trying! It might work better with a softer, 'pithier' wood. Once I've finished with this ******ing boxwood one, I might try it out on something a little easier to work. Lime, for instance...!

When (if) I finish it, I'll try and post some photos, though that, in itself, will be nearly as time consuming and frustrating as carving the box! Still, I mustn't be daunted by technology...

Thanks for the write on the rasp mate, if you try it on other woods can you let me know how it fairs?, look forward to seeing the finished Kuksa
 

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