hatchet handle question cutting board oil?

[MarkinLondon]

I just received a new Gransfors Mini, and would like to treat the handle, but have no linseed oil. So: I've got all sorts of other stuff, like neetsfoot oil; kitchen cutting board oil (mineral oil?); there might be a bottle of mineral oil somewhere, but finding it won't be fun; Ren wax; Camilla oil.

Frankly, I'm not sure why something waxy isn't used. Furniture wax protects and shines, as does shoe polish. I've even got some Dubbin (IMHO is the magic stuff for leather.)

I'd also like to say that if this is what everyone describes as outrageously sharp, then I need to reevaluate everyone's recommendation. This one needs a serious stropping with the Starkie Blue.

thanks,
m

 

[ozzy1977]

If its new it should not need anything yet, you sont want to be using wax as you know it will go shiny and slippery. linseed oil really is the best option though.

 

[Big Stu 12]

Leave it for the mo, IMHO never wax or polish or make shiny an axe helve you cant grip it properly, Ive used alsorts to oil a helve before with no problems...

 

[Goatboy]

I agree with going for linseed oil. Protects while retaining grip. Always remember the old advert, "Put a rug down on a polished floor? Might as well set a mantrap!" Still sticks in my head after all those years, (mainly as I wanted a mantrap!)

 

[Uilleachan]

Just use it as it is if already sealed, if not use linseed oil.

Had an old hatchet for years (currently lost out the back somewhere) and that took a little linseed oil when things dried up. The handle stayed nice and tight when the weather was wet, but when ever it dried out I gave it a little oiling, raw linseed is what you want and is as cheap as chips.

If the handle is untreated treat it with some raw oil, then, sit it heel down in a shallow dish of 50/50 mix of white-spirit (white spirit evaporates leaving zero stink, so not turps turps sub etc) and linseed oil over night (outside) to draw the thinned oil deeper up into the grain. After a few days rub on some more raw oil to the handle. Thats it done for the year if it lives outside, much longer if it's a drawer queen.

 

[rik_uk3]

Out of curiosity, anyone used yacht varnish?

 

[Goatboy]

Out of curiosity, anyone used yacht varnish?

Used some on my old Granddads garden fork years ago and it was OK. Though I didn't put any on the handle just on the shaft to keep the moisture out (It lived in a shed). Lasted ages.

 

[British Red]

It depends on what an axe is for. I recall Robin Wood "roughing up" helves of carving axes - whereas I smooth the helves of working axes out with wire wool and oil. After a little thought of course I came to realise he wanted a firm, one handed grip for carving, whereas I wanted my "guiding" hand on a two handed axe to slide smoothly. Different axes and purposes. No axe should be truly slippery, but smooth and allowing the guiding hand to glide easily is fine.

 

[rg598]

I've used all sorts of oils and waxes without a problem. As long as you wipe down the surface when you are done, there should be no sliding issue.

People like boiled linseed oil because it hardens after it is applied unlike other oils including non-boiled linseed oil.

Over the years people have used just about anything to protect axe handles. Most of those things have worked fine. In my opinion there is no need to over think it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[John Fenna]

A guide to when to be oiling wood, that I was taught -

One a day for a week
Once a week for a month
Once a month for a year
Once a year for life

This was advised for new wooden tools and the oil recommended was raw linseed.

 

[Teepee]

Cutting board oil is generally Tung oil. I find it takes a long time to go off. Grip isn't bad but not as good as Linseed.

The don is Lemon oil, smells great too and is antibacterial.

Ullechain is bang on with the thinning, although I'd thin the first coat well with white spirit too to increase the penetration into the handle.

Tennis racket tape or silicone self fusing tape works very well on hatchets and the end of 2 handed axes IME, especially in the cold.

 

[MarkinLondon]

For the moment, I'm going to go with Stu's advice and leave it for a while. It's new, and should be fine. I'll find out how it operates in a few weeks.

I must say that I expected a much better hatchet. It's my first hatchet, so I have nothing to compare it to, but the handle seemed a bit raw, and I assumed that a wax finish would make it tackier and improve an otherwise dry and slippery grip. Perhaps not, according to everyone's responses. I'll leave as is until its inaugural session in a few weeks.

But now I'm stropping it, because intellectually, the blade looks to be a few mm thick with a convex edge and 59 Rockwell forged steel, not unlike a high-end knife. I've read about the Mini being described as a "knife on a stick," so after reading how Gransfors axes (especially the Mini) are "shaving sharp" i expected a much sharper edge. This one is not shaving sharp. If this hatchet indeed has a much better fit and finish than other brands, then I struggle to imagine what the others are like. But of course, this is my first hatchet, so I have nothing to compare it to. As an academic, I must acknowledge my ignorance in the matter.

 

[mrcharly]

GB handles are already treated.

the Mini is quite convexed - not razor sharp, but sharper than most people's knives. It works well as a hatchet; I sold mine as I found it didn't workfor carving.

 

[Uilleachan]

I've used all sorts of oils and waxes without a problem. As long as you wipe down the surface when you are done, there should be no sliding issue.

People like boiled linseed oil because it hardens after it is applied unlike other oils including non-boiled linseed oil.

Over the years people have used just about anything to protect axe handles. Most of those things have worked fine. In my opinion there is no need to over think it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Depends on what you're trying to achieve. Boiled is good but once it's on and hardened it's sealed and won't take more, that works in a stable climate.

Using raw oil lets the oil gets right into the wood, over time. Probably more important in damp climates and on the sea. During dry periods, adding oil eventually allows the oil to take the place of moisture in the wood meaning the wood becomes more stable, as the wood becomes wet with oil and is less inclined to take up moisture when things get wet, again.

Round here many people treat wooden outdoor furnishings, sheds, shed doors, decking etc with a mix of "clear" cuprinol and raw linseed, as an initial coat (varying degrees of the preservative added to the mix depending who's doing the mixing). Once thats been sucked up a further couple of coats of raw oil go on top. Wooden stuff lasts much longer and provided the wood is topped up with oil and the occasional oil/preserv mix whenever things dry out enough, much much less maintenance work when compared to coating with sealants: paint varnish and boiled oil based varnishes.

Cuprinol & similar oil based preservatives aren't good on stuff thats handled regularly so not good on tool handles from a health perspective.

 

[ozzy1977]

For the first coat or 2 I will dilute raw linseed oil 50/50 with white sprit this helps the oils get right in the wood, the rest is neet.