Hi all, just a quickie; how long after collecting a piece of wood can you leave it for it still to be considered "green' in wood carving terms? And am I right in thinking that green wood carves much easier than wood which has dried out for a while?
Green woodworking.
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green just means that it still has the natural moisture in it, pretty much the sooner you carve it after you collect it the easier it will be, you do need to think about how the wood will dry out after youve carved it green though. probably the best way to go about it would be to carve it slightly oversize, dry it out gradually in a warm dry place like an airing cupboard, then finish it when its dry.
in general it lasts a reasonable while if youve left it outside, maybe a few weeks. you should be able to feel the difference, green wood will be denser.
in general it lasts a reasonable while if youve left it outside, maybe a few weeks. you should be able to feel the difference, green wood will be denser.
As said above. Greens nice to carve but you can get some distortion as it dries. You can try and keep any cut wood wet and either immersed in water or wrap it in a plastic bag. The later will start to go off after a bit, but once you carve into the wood it's fine.
My one bit of advice is to dry it slowly if its a bigger piece. Too fast and it can crack and split, so airing cupboard may be a bit fierce. On smaller bits its less of a problem and dries much quicker anyway. Spoons dry quite quick and I've yet to have one split. However I have had slight distortion on occasion. My opinion.
Try any greenwood you can get your hands on. They are all different but develop your skills. :sun:
My one bit of advice is to dry it slowly if its a bigger piece. Too fast and it can crack and split, so airing cupboard may be a bit fierce. On smaller bits its less of a problem and dries much quicker anyway. Spoons dry quite quick and I've yet to have one split. However I have had slight distortion on occasion. My opinion.
Try any greenwood you can get your hands on. They are all different but develop your skills. :sun:
Birch is probably the easiest for me to get hold of, so that's good. How do people cope with joints drying and distorting or working loose due to shrinkage - I have it in mind to make some rustic shelving, for a greenhouse.
All woods season at different rates. sycamore is very quick while oak lasts years. It depends also on the diameter and length of the timber too.
As for joints, consider making anything with a 'tenon' first so that it dries out before you cut the 'mortices'. Then when the morticed timber dries it will lock onto the tenoned piece.
Some chair makers use this to great advantage.
As for joints, consider making anything with a 'tenon' first so that it dries out before you cut the 'mortices'. Then when the morticed timber dries it will lock onto the tenoned piece.
Some chair makers use this to great advantage.
Bundleman- that is exactly how i have been making stools for a few years, not had one joint fail, and also, if you can keep the wood in its original rounds then it is much stronger for a given diameter than sawn or turned wood. It really is a lovely way to make furniture.
It certainly is.
You can use natural rounds if they're not too large or they'll split. Cleft wood follows the grain, retains the natural strength and avoids this. Mike Abbots or Roy Underhills books are well recommended...
You can use natural rounds if they're not too large or they'll split. Cleft wood follows the grain, retains the natural strength and avoids this. Mike Abbots or Roy Underhills books are well recommended...
What about books by Daniel Mack? he seems to have a few out that would be suitable for furniture novices.
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