Grafting Apple Trees
- Thread starter British Red
- Start date
Time for an update.
Didn't get 100% success, but am very pleased with what we achieved.
Grafted Tree at Six Months by British Red, on Flickr
Here is the graft with the whip removed
You can just make out the tongues in the grafting scar, but its bonded really well
The graft by British Red, on Flickr
I'll grow this tree on for another year as a maiden (straight stick) then pinch out the top when it makes the height I want to get it form a classic wine glass shape of a standard fruit tree.
We are also producing our own rootstocks now so can produce new grafted trees entirely from our own material. Happy to do a post on how to make many rootstocks from onw if anyone is interested? Its a bit obscure I know.
Didn't get 100% success, but am very pleased with what we achieved.
Grafted Tree at Six Months by British Red, on FlickrHere is the graft with the whip removed
You can just make out the tongues in the grafting scar, but its bonded really well
The graft by British Red, on FlickrI'll grow this tree on for another year as a maiden (straight stick) then pinch out the top when it makes the height I want to get it form a classic wine glass shape of a standard fruit tree.
We are also producing our own rootstocks now so can produce new grafted trees entirely from our own material. Happy to do a post on how to make many rootstocks from onw if anyone is interested? Its a bit obscure I know.
It might be a nice idea to add the top post and final result of this to your blog, BR. It is excellent info.
Another fruit tree related post that you might consider is pruning advice on trees such as apple since you are looking after quite a few now. I had a small Red Windsor and a Meech's Prolific Quince that I mis-pruned badly. Since I hope to be moving house in the next year I decided to uproot them with the intention of starting again in the new place in a year or so. I correctly adjusted the length of the branches each winter but not the actual number and as a result after a few years the trees flowered beautifully but stopped setting fruit. I could have done with advice on how to manage them.
Another fruit tree related post that you might consider is pruning advice on trees such as apple since you are looking after quite a few now. I had a small Red Windsor and a Meech's Prolific Quince that I mis-pruned badly. Since I hope to be moving house in the next year I decided to uproot them with the intention of starting again in the new place in a year or so. I correctly adjusted the length of the branches each winter but not the actual number and as a result after a few years the trees flowered beautifully but stopped setting fruit. I could have done with advice on how to manage them.
Good idea Daniel, I will do just that in a few days time. I will photograph the pruning process when I do it in Winter. Thanks for the input, its always great when people suggest what they would like to see.
This suggestion might be more for BB than you, but have you considered adding German Chamomile to your Herbals? You already have the dehydrator of course. I know Roman Chamomile is the ground cover plant and German is the tall, leggy one with the supposedly better taste.
We have a little but she is currently fixed on liquorice and peppermint teas. Peppermint is easy, but I can't locate a source of liquorice plants or seeds 
For those geeky enough to not only graft their own trees but also grow their own root stocks, I've done a blog post on producing root stocks for apple trees. Its quite fun in a weird way - sort of micro coppicing!
http://www.englishcountrylife.com/4/post/2015/09/growing-your-own-root-stocks-grafting-part-2.html
In effect cutting back crab apples to ground level than staking down resultant branches
Layered MM106 stool by British Red, on Flickr
This gives new, rooted plants that can be severed and used as root stocks
Lifted rootstock by British Red, on Flickr
Its somewhere between copping hazel and layering gooseberries, but necessary for a truly self sufficient tree programme
http://www.englishcountrylife.com/4/post/2015/09/growing-your-own-root-stocks-grafting-part-2.html
In effect cutting back crab apples to ground level than staking down resultant branches
Layered MM106 stool by British Red, on FlickrThis gives new, rooted plants that can be severed and used as root stocks
Lifted rootstock by British Red, on FlickrIts somewhere between copping hazel and layering gooseberries, but necessary for a truly self sufficient tree programme
We bought seeds from Wallis Seeds. http://www.wallis-seeds.co.uk/details.php?page_id=10&sub_id=31&product_id=3372&add=View+&+Purchase
Good evening.
Hopefully a simple question.
My neighbour refuses to let me or anyone else prune her apple tree:
"I hate to see nature destroyed"
There's nothing I can do to convince her, so I've decided to take some grafts from it to prove a point and give her another tree.
I've tried for the last couple of years with whip and tounge and have a wonderfull track record of failure; but I know I will get there.
I've since found out that I get a second chance in the Summer for bud/T grafting:
Now for the (hopefully not) silly question:
Is it wise to wait for the fruit to go before taking the buds?
Cheers.
Albert
Hopefully a simple question.
My neighbour refuses to let me or anyone else prune her apple tree:
"I hate to see nature destroyed"
There's nothing I can do to convince her, so I've decided to take some grafts from it to prove a point and give her another tree.
I've tried for the last couple of years with whip and tounge and have a wonderfull track record of failure; but I know I will get there.
I've since found out that I get a second chance in the Summer for bud/T grafting:
Now for the (hopefully not) silly question:
Is it wise to wait for the fruit to go before taking the buds?
Cheers.
Albert
