GB SFA & fire lighting

[sxmolloy]

I was just wondering if anyone has ever modified a Gransfors Bruks axe head so you can strike a ferro rod on it.

My reasoning is that I can cut, split and feather stick firewood with my SFA, but then strike the ferro rod on the spine of my knife in order to light the feather stick.

If its possible to file the top of the axe head to a good angle to enable a good shower of sparks to be thrown when using the ferro rod it would make the axe the complete tool in fire lighting.

Whats your thoughs?

Stu

 

[luckylee]

I was just wondering if anyone has ever modified a Gransfors Bruks axe head so you can strike a ferro rod on it.

My reasoning is that I can cut, split and feather stick firewood with my SFA, but then strike the ferro rod on the spine of my knife in order to light the feather stick.

If its possible to file the top of the axe head to a good angle to enable a good shower of sparks to be thrown when using the ferro rod it would make the axe the complete tool in fire lighting.

Whats your thoughs?

Stu

i can't see why not bud, i have not done this my self, but its good carbon steel on all there axes so should be achievable.
take care.
lee.

 

[HillBill]

Yeah you can do it easily enough, just square a section of the head.

Not sure how easy it will be to actually get sparks where you want them though. The axe will be more than a bit cumbersome for that.

 

[luckylee]

Yeah you can do it easily enough, just square a section of the head.

Not sure how easy it will be to actually get sparks where you want them though. The axe will be more than a bit cumbersome for that.

i agree it would be a bit unweildly trying to throw sparks with sfa, but my gb mini would be fine, and maybe th gb WLH, but not with the sfa

 

[sxmolloy]

If you keep the axe still, close to the intended tinder, then strike the ferro rod against the axe head, it's the ferro rod, in effect, that moves and not the axe. Should be able to be very accurate.

 

[shaggystu]

no problem with accuracy at all, if anything it's easier than with a knife. hold the axe "upside down" so that the head of the axe is sitting on the floor and the handle is up in the air in your left hand (assuming you're right handed), put your foot on the side of the axe head to hold it steadier if you feel the need, tinder bundle in a little heap under the big sheltered area that you've just made with the head of your axe, ferro rod in the gap between the bottom of the axe head and the handle and away you go. if that makes no sense at all just shout up and i'll get a photo put up showing you what i mean.

stuart

 

[sxmolloy]

no problem with accuracy at all, if anything it's easier than with a knife. hold the axe "upside down" so that the head of the axe is sitting on the floor and the handle is up in the air in your left hand (assuming you're right handed), put your foot on the side of the axe head to hold it steadier if you feel the need, tinder bundle in a little heap under the big sheltered area that you've just made with the head of your axe, ferro rod in the gap between the bottom of the axe head and the handle and away you go. if that makes no sense at all just shout up and i'll get a photo put up showing you what i mean.

stuart

Thanks Stu. Whilst that wasn't the way I was thinkinh of doing it, it makes sense. But I would appreciate pictures if it's not too much trouble.

Thanks

Stu

 

[sxmolloy]

This didn't really get off the ground. The metal on the axe was very easy to file, but lost it's edge after a few strikes of the firesteel. This makes me think that the axe head was only hardened around the cutting edge and not the whole thing. Would that explain it?

 

[HillBill]

This didn't really get off the ground. The metal on the axe was very easy to file, but lost it's edge after a few strikes of the firesteel. This makes me think that the axe head was only hardened around the cutting edge and not the whole thing. Would that explain it?

Yeah most axes are tempered that way. If the whole head was hardened then the eye would crack quite easily with the repeated impacts. Try it just behind the edge.

 

[sxmolloy]

Aahhhh, that makes sense, thanks Bill

 

[shaggystu]

This didn't really get off the ground. The metal on the axe was very easy to file, but lost it's edge after a few strikes of the firesteel. This makes me think that the axe head was only hardened around the cutting edge and not the whole thing. Would that explain it?

as hillbill said, you need to be using the part of the axe that's just behind the edge, having read through my explaination again it does sound as though i'm using the part of the head closest to the handle, sorry about that. as you said, the steel files really easily, you need to find the bit where it doesn't file so easily, that's the bit that's been hardened.

i'll try and get a few photo's up later if SWMBT will take some for me.

stuart