Flemish twist bowstring.

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Grooveski

Native
Aug 9, 2005
1,707
10
53
Glasgow
With folk blethering about strings on another thread and me just sitting down to make one I figured I'd take a bunch of pics and walk through it. No-one asked for it and there are plenty of string making tutorials already on the net but what the hey, won't do any harm.

I have a jig for making double loop strings but haven't used it in ages. Got fed up with strings needing replaced because they'd stretched - with a single loop you just move the knot to take up the stretch so they tend to last longer.
This one's a 3-ply 12 strand for my mum's 30lb bow. For 45lb and over I go up to 15 strand. All my own bows are 15 strand simply so I can use the same arrows and the arrow nocks fit them all.

Anyhow, on with the job.

Cut all the strands to the nock-nock length of the bow plus 10-12"(plus another couple for a recurve string - bigger loop). I cut this string a bit fine by only adding 7" - just got away with it.

STRING_01.jpg


Bundle each ply, stagger each strand to effectively taper both ends.

STRING_02.jpg


Wax up the plys until they hold themselves together. The more the merrier when it comes to waxing, right through the process.

STRING_03.jpg


The loop for this bow is only a little one - under 3". I wanted another 3" for the main twist and you lose about an inch as you go. For a heavier bow I'd go with 4-5" of main twist so would have cut the strands longer in the first place.

STRING_04.jpg


Twist up the bit that'll form the top loop. Offer it up to the bow to be sure that it'll slip down the limb a few inches when the bow's unstrung(quite tight is ok, it'll stretch a bit).

STRING_05.jpg


Fold the loop, match up the plys if it's a multicolour string....

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...and start the main twist.

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Carry on until the tapered ends have fully blended in and there's no harm in continuing on for another inch or two.

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Trim off any ends that are sticking out.

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Pop the loop around something secure. Twist each ply a few times....

STRING_10.jpg


...then twist all the plys around each other a few times(neatly) so the string all comes together.

STRING_11.jpg


Now wax the hell out of it. At this point you can start taking some of the stretch out the string material so pull pretty hard on the loose end while waxing. Keep waxing it up until the string is loaded with the stuff and there's excess filling the gaps between the plys on the twisted section.

STRING_12.jpg


With the string end still secured, use a scrap of leather(or cardboard) and burnish it. Go hard and fast to build up heat and keep pressure on the the loose end all the time.
Once burnished everything'll look much neater, less excess wax and the string itself should have rounded off nicely.

STRING_13.jpg


Slip the loop onto and down the top limb of the bow a few inches.

STRING_14.jpg


Decide where to start the twisted section for the knot.

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Separate the 3 plys again along that length...

STRING_16.jpg


...and twist them up.

STRING_17.jpg


Wax and burnish the new twist.

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Tie onto the bottom nock with a timber hitch...

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...and decide where to start the serving(at least 2" above the arrow nock position and 4" below - up to let's say 3" above 6" below).

STRING_20.jpg


Leave a bight and start the serving, covering the loose end of the serving material. After half an inch or so bring the loose end out and carry on serving for a bit then pause(where the pic was taken) and pull the end to tighten everything up.

STRING_21.jpg


Continue serving until you reach the desired endpoint. The serving is finished in the same way at this end but it's done slightly differently. Leave a slack section and go up the string a few inches then wind the serving material back along the string half a dozen times at least...

STRING_22.jpg


...then as you wind up the last of the serving it will unwind from the slack section as you go. Carry on until all the winds are out of what will by then just be a bight then pull the loose end to tighten everything up.
Cut off the tails.

STRING_23.jpg


Wax/burnish the string again.

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Job's a good 'un. :)

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No doubt others will do things slightly differently. I've not bothered trying to take out the stretch from this string - usually I do(before putting the serving on) but this is such a light bow that it'll not stretch too bad. My mum can just keep an eye on the brace height for the first few sessions.
 
Last edited:

Toddy

Mod
Mod
Jan 21, 2005
38,966
4,616
S. Lanarkshire
Tidily done Josh :D and good to see the construction throughout too. I didn't realise that the twist wasn't tight plyed right up the length.

atb,
M
 

dwardo

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 30, 2006
6,454
476
46
Nr Chester
Now if you could come up with a formula to determine where to tie the bowyers knot to achieve brace height first time every time on a new bow I would be seriously impressed.

Nice tutorial.

More chance of an equation to predict prime numbers.
Generally 4 fingers width from nick to loop does it for me.... Sometimes.
 

Grooveski

Native
Aug 9, 2005
1,707
10
53
Glasgow
Cheers, glad it was of interest. :)

Thought I'd stick up another couple of pics for folk curious about double loop strings and the jig I mentioned earlier.
I only tend to use double loops on takedown bows these days. Should really make another for the Hoyt while all the gubbins is out because this one's seen better days.

The jig is just a bunch of nails. It's not essential but if you've a bunch of different sized bows to string it cuts out a lot of the guesswork.

STRING_27.jpg


At one end you tie on the the strand from the material reel. It's then run round the various posts of the jig and each lap you go down a notch and can read off how many strands are in the ply(in case you weren't concentrating - which you probably weren't).
All it's really doing is staggering the strands to make the ply taper. With the jig though you start waxing the ply while it's still on the jig then when you make the cut it drops off all semi-waxed and nicely tapered.

STRING_28.jpg


The middle of the jig is a series of post holes for changing the overall length. There's a bit of trial and error for the first couple of attempts but once you have the shortest and longest bow in the collection mapped down working out the ones inbetween gets easier each time.

STRING_29.jpg


On the back of the jig go the twist and loop sizes(from each end of the bundled plys).
i.e. Top loop come in 9" from the end, twist 3½" back towards the end for the loop, use what's left for the main twist.

STRING_30.jpg


That'll get tweaked again next time no doubt, jiggle ¼" up to the top twist.

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Some notes are more cryptic than others but I'm sure the next time I need a boss string for the old compound I'll work out what it means.

STRING_32.jpg


So here's a double loop string, just the same as a single except after making the first loop and before main waxing you turn it around and make another loop,

As noted earlier - this one's about shot. It's twisted up about as far as it'll go, will start twisting the bow limbs soon. It's also been patched a couple of times which is never a good sign.
Patching's a luxury that you can get away with on overengineered strings. I wouldn't do it on a 12 strand 45lb string but would on a 15 strand 50lb, as this one is. It's just a little bit of serving hiding and holding the ends of a damaged strand.

STRING_33.jpg
 

Grooveski

Native
Aug 9, 2005
1,707
10
53
Glasgow
I start off with 3" too.

...and 4" for modern recurves.
As you say though it's rarely that straightforward. The more pronounced the recurve the shorter the string(proportional to the ntn length). The Riever is almost 5" and the wee horsebow is even more.
All the Samicks and the Hoyt are about 4".
 

marcelxl

Settler
May 2, 2010
638
0
Kamloops, B.C.
I've just got into building my own strings and found a couple of issues:

There are a few plans online for string jigs one of which I made despite constantly being advised to make the one in Anthony Cameras "Shooting the stickbow" (a book I own) which I made but ended up being so far out given the numbers on the jig and made strings 4&5" too short.

Ended up making the other jig (from the book) which is perfect, and my first string was a shooter

The guides I keep finding are 3" for longbows and 4" for recurves, which is fine in theory but I am finding some play in that especially when you tune your bows to find that brace height is not where the manufacturer recommends!

I am having a lot of fun and achy fingers & thumbs doing it now I have the formulas for length from the right jig making replacements for all my bows, in fastflight, in pretty colours (all my bows are compatible "high performance" "traditional" bows) but with double loops and would recommend any archer to have a stab at it for the cost of a 3' piece of 6 x 1, a few pins, a nail and then your string material, bit of wax and some serving & serving tool.

Aside from this tutorial there is lots on youtube too
 

Grooveski

Native
Aug 9, 2005
1,707
10
53
Glasgow
I've just got into building my own strings and found a couple of issues:

There are a few plans online for string jigs one of which I made despite constantly being advised to make the one in Anthony Cameras "Shooting the stickbow" (a book I own) which I made but ended up being so far out given the numbers on the jig and made strings 4&5" too short.

Ended up making the other jig (from the book) which is perfect, and my first string was a shooter

Mine was made from a photo guessing sizes(and the one in the photo was on a wider board). Once done I ran a thread round the first lap on a random pin and measured it to calibrate the jig.
...then marked up the pinholes.
....then decided I didn't want to count the first inch of taper each end.
.....so scribbled out the numbers.
......then decided knowing the overall length was just confusing me anyway.
.......so didn't mark it back up again.
:rolleyes:

Got lucky on my first string. Was supposed to be for the Reiver but it stretched much more than I expected. Once settled though it turned out to be just the right length for the SKB(same ntn length but less recurve).
Next I compared that to the string from the wee k-mag and made one for it. Was a mile out - about 2" too long. Untwisted one of the loops and redone it.
Next up was the longbow and with the loop sizes being so different I blew it again. Too short this time and it wasn't going to stretch out. Untwisted it, shortened some more and put it on the Griffon instead.

Since then the rest have gone ok just comparing strings. Must be nice working with FF, guessing the stretch of B-50 is half the palava. Stretches more when there's fewer strands, a heavier bow, a longer string....
What a carry on!
A few of my bows are FF ok but I'm just not keen on the vibe so they all use B-50 now.

Must read 'Shooting the stickbow'. It's been lying there since christmas when my folks gave me it and I've barely skimmed through it, didn't even know it had a string section.
 

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