Very true chap. I've got Ash and Oak mainly at home but to be honest tend to use the gas central heating most.
Ivan, not sure about taking four hours to get a fire going properly? Sorry that makes no sense to me?
Fire wood chart.
- Thread starter Shambling Shaman
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Very true chap. I've got Ash and Oak mainly at home but to be honest tend to use the gas central heating most.
Ivan, not sure about taking four hours to get a fire going properly? Sorry that makes no sense to me?
If we are talking about a "campfire" In my experience to get optimum base heat (so as for instance, you can burn non ideal wood, as that is all that can be foraged) And the versatiliy of allowing the coals/embers to cook properly, then have enough guts in the fire to coax it back to a source of real heat and light, i really do think it takes about four hours.
Because i am usually dealing with meets, so numbers that want room to cook individually or a large group pot, and then for there to be enough heat and room for the social circle to enjoy, i tend to light the fire early for it to be a welcoming sight as the guests enter camp, just my thoughts perhaps!
Ivan...
Need a like button.
and its true though, i know that a campfire fire just for me and my mates when we go camping really has to be burning for about an hour and a half to two hours, before its right for cooking on.
The great thing about ash is that it sheds branches in winds like we've just had here in the UK, so at the moment there's kindling, and more, almost everywhere you look.
Great chart.
I know for a fact that Ivan knows his stuff. As well as a seasoned Bushcrafter, he was a tree surgeon and log merchant when I was in shorts pants and he's spent more time outdoors than any person I know.
Still, it's always nice to know what logs to throw on the fire when your surfing the forum in your armchair.
;-)
I know for a fact that Ivan knows his stuff. As well as a seasoned Bushcrafter, he was a tree surgeon and log merchant when I was in shorts pants and he's spent more time outdoors than any person I know.
Still, it's always nice to know what logs to throw on the fire when your surfing the forum in your armchair.
;-)
Charts and poems being interesting and all but all dry woods throws out the same amount of BTUs per pound in weight.
Easy to remember.
Easy to remember.
Ash is my preference too and if your in a real pickle its nice to know that the green stuff will burn well. As said, the young wrist thick trees will often be damaged by high winds and storms so you don't tend to have to look far to find a green sapling which can be harvested. I also tend to find ash will literally grow anywhere. I'll often see a young tree growing in shallow soil or on a bank where its been partly uprooted by a storm.
Using live wood I realise is not recommended on the forum for environmental reasons but if I see a tree that is clearly not going to survive in the location its growing (for example I've seen young trees split at the base and growing horizontally across the ground) the reality is this tree isn't going to survive so I'll use it if there isn't much available in the way of dead wood.
One thing I would be interested in if anyone can point me in the right direction is a list of woods in order for what makes the best friction fire? I realise moisture content has a lot to do with this and I believe ash has one of the lowest so in theory could be very good. Still it would be good to get some expert opinions from the people who have been making fire by friction for long enough to know what works and what doesn't.
I know soft woods are no good and I've kind of guessed Alder wouldn't be either due to moisture content. The wood needs to be well dry too so at the time of year, the driest wood I've ever found was Hazel as it was nicely stood on end and not subjected to the damp ground. I've bought it back home with me to try and make up a set when I get time but a chart would be a good reference.
Using live wood I realise is not recommended on the forum for environmental reasons but if I see a tree that is clearly not going to survive in the location its growing (for example I've seen young trees split at the base and growing horizontally across the ground) the reality is this tree isn't going to survive so I'll use it if there isn't much available in the way of dead wood.
One thing I would be interested in if anyone can point me in the right direction is a list of woods in order for what makes the best friction fire? I realise moisture content has a lot to do with this and I believe ash has one of the lowest so in theory could be very good. Still it would be good to get some expert opinions from the people who have been making fire by friction for long enough to know what works and what doesn't.
I know soft woods are no good and I've kind of guessed Alder wouldn't be either due to moisture content. The wood needs to be well dry too so at the time of year, the driest wood I've ever found was Hazel as it was nicely stood on end and not subjected to the damp ground. I've bought it back home with me to try and make up a set when I get time but a chart would be a good reference.
Hi Ammo, just came across this thread. Try this link and see if it helps. http://members.scouts.org.uk/factsheets/FS315001.pdf
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