I am seriously considering getting an F1 to replace my bashed mora scout knife, and would like to know what others think about it, and if it has any flaws/downsides, and what you really like about it, Thanks people.
Fallkniven F1
- Thread starter Jon Mawer
- Start date
Jon there is no denying that I like them, it is a nice robust knife, holds a good edge, is very corrosion resistant (I live near the sea and everything rusts), it casts one of the best showers of sparks that you will see from a production knife and it actually gives a sense of being solid.
Neil1 has reviewed it here, although his current model he has put an Oak handle on.
Neil1 has reviewed it here, although his current model he has put an Oak handle on.
Jon,
Yes I have one (along with a couple of other "bushy" type knives).
Overall - cracking knife! A few thoughts
1. It comes in a variety of sheath types (closed pouch, low dangler and kydex at extra cost). I would go for the dangler as it then hangs below the level of your Bergan hip belt and doesn't foul it.
2. The handle is squarish and not perhaps the most comfortable in the world but nice and non-slip. If you are in the "hands like shovels" camp, ty before you buy!
3. The blade is no scandy ground but slightly concave. Not a problem and it holds a wicked edge
4. There is a Micarta handled version but it doubles the price
5. Its a great production knife. However for a few quid more, you can get lovely one off knife from a custom maker - Shing, Lord F, Shinken and others all make really nice bushy knives..have a look on British Blades and the makers forum here
Hope thats some help?
Red
Yes I have one (along with a couple of other "bushy" type knives).
Overall - cracking knife! A few thoughts
1. It comes in a variety of sheath types (closed pouch, low dangler and kydex at extra cost). I would go for the dangler as it then hangs below the level of your Bergan hip belt and doesn't foul it.
2. The handle is squarish and not perhaps the most comfortable in the world but nice and non-slip. If you are in the "hands like shovels" camp, ty before you buy!
3. The blade is no scandy ground but slightly concave. Not a problem and it holds a wicked edge
4. There is a Micarta handled version but it doubles the price
5. Its a great production knife. However for a few quid more, you can get lovely one off knife from a custom maker - Shing, Lord F, Shinken and others all make really nice bushy knives..have a look on British Blades and the makers forum here
Hope thats some help?
Red
British Red said:
The edge is Convex, the hands like shovels is no problem buy yourself a blank and put it together yourself to make it fit your hand.
It's a full convex grind, concave would be hollow grindBritish Red said:
I did a mini review of it
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19188
Thanks guys, think I will have to get one afte all! Damn being a student and strapped for cash! lol!
It's a good knife, very solid as the blade is about 4.5mm thick at the spine. I found it isn't a very good carving knife so if you are a spoon addict you might want to try something else. Here's mine in a homemade sheath.
Nice sheath, I'm not a spoon addict, so I doubt that this will be a problem, I was really wondering about its utility and trail uses though (cutting up game, preparing meals and the like).
the convex grind makes it a better slicer then a scandi knife of the same thickness. Food prep is fairly good. It's also a great knife for heavy baton work
It sounds like just what I'm after! As soon as I can get one, I will. I'm also going to try and get rapidboy to make me a nice ray mears sheath for it as well. Yum!
Its a good knife designed as a survival knife (i hate that expression) so it is made thick, sturdy fulltang, relative high angle and convex edge so it will last longer and is less prone to chip. The handle has patterns so you wont slip even when you got water or fishslime all over your hands (works really well). The handle molded on in a way that your skin dont have to come in contact with the metal when working in cold climates. The handle is also quite narrow so it will work well when using thick gloves. The blade is laminated with 2 stainless steels. The VG10 steel used as a core/edge and in my opinion works very well.
Since working a lot with wood when bushcrafting. Im going to get the bewel and edge fixed by a professional to a lower angle. Still slightly convex becouse i really like properties of the grind but narrow enough to make it more enjoyable working with wood.
twelveboar: The kydex works just fine but that sheath is just beatiful! You got any thread on how you made it?
P.S. Look at my avatar
D.S.
Since working a lot with wood when bushcrafting. Im going to get the bewel and edge fixed by a professional to a lower angle. Still slightly convex becouse i really like properties of the grind but narrow enough to make it more enjoyable working with wood.
twelveboar: The kydex works just fine but that sheath is just beatiful! You got any thread on how you made it?
P.S. Look at my avatar
D.S.Thanks Tanto, there's a few more photos on British Blades if you're interested, and if you want to have a go I'd be happy to send a copy of the pattern I used, so you know it will fit ok. Construction was pretty much along the lines shown in the tutorials here and on BB, although I used an awl instead of a drill for all the holes as I read somewhere that this allows the fibres to close back up slightly after sewing to protect the thread.
twelveboar said:
It is not to protect the thread, it is so that the leather clamps around the thread making it tighter, drilled holes get a little larger over time so in theory the grip on the thread will become less. Ways around it are using an awl or use a fine drill bit (I have drilled them @ 0.75mm and the thread I use is 0.8mm x 2 as it is saddle stitch).
The problem in using very fine drill bits is thier length and the fact that they snap quite a bit (although I have only broken 2 since I started doing leather work). When you start stitching very thick bits of leather you probably wont hesitate to use a drill.
Thanks Leon I knew there was a reason. If I'd had a fine enough drill bit I would probably have used it as the welt was from an offcut of 5.5-6mm thick leather so it took a while and made my hands ache a bit, but I like the idea of using hand tools.
twelveboar said:
I can appreciate that, I made an F1 for someone once before and they asked for thick leather for the sheath, I asked how thick and gave them a selection and they asked for 5.5mm so I ended up with a very thick sheath, there is a picture of it and the knife in my gallery.
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