Fallkniven f1 cos

[Rickyd]

Looking to buy either of these knifes. Has anyone got one here? What do you think of them?
https://www.heinnie.com/fallkniven-f1-survival-cos
https://www.heinnie.com/fallkniven-x-series-f1

 

[gra_farmer]

I have handled both, and cannot go wrong with either, the original style F1 is a tried and tested design, and a better slicer than the F1x. But the F1x is a much stronger beating design, neither would let you down.

For me fallkniven have hit a home run with x series, but there is something about the original design that draws you in.....

So depends on your use, as a carver and dressing game, the original F1, for battening wood, hard use or dare I say it 1 knife solution I would go for the F1x.

Have fun choosing, that is the best part or this journey

 

[gra_farmer]

I thought I would just comment on the A1 vs a1x, I prefer the original A1 for intended chopping and carving

 

[woodsorrel]

I brought my original F1 with me on a recent trip to the arctic. I appreciated the hidden tang in the cold weather. Like gra_farmer mentioned, the original design speaks to me in a way the later versions do not. But it's a matter of personal taste. I'm sure you will enjoy either one.

- Woodsorrel

 

[Nice65]

Looking to buy either of these knifes. Has anyone got one here? What do you think of them?
https://www.heinnie.com/fallkniven-f1-survival-cos
https://www.heinnie.com/fallkniven-x-series-f1

Got to ask, intended usage? The F1 is a fine knife, I had one on loan for a while and because I like the convex grind, I stuck with my Bark River and returned the F1. As the years have gone on, I find myself appreciating the functionality of the F1 more and more. I really don’t like a guard beneath the blade on all rounder knives, something that would put me off the X-Series.

The X-Series looks a bit half baked, lacking the finesse of Fallkniven. The scales not meeting the tang edges, slightly thicker steel, it’s all a bit ‘axe’. I’m not sure Fallkniven are used to providing this kind of knife to the perceived market, and it shows in the design. If your intended use is hard, batoning and splitting, then a Terava Puuko from Varusteleka could be a better bet.

https://www.varusteleka.com/en/cate...X-E6_91KFCS7o_htpbHJmlY4yhws8nDRoCgkIQAvD_BwE

Never seen much harm in the old adage, buy both.

 

[C_Claycomb]

I have handled a number of F1s, may have seen an F1x , but on basic principle and the features I know I would rather have the original F1. I cannot but help thinking that the F1x has been made to appeal to certain elements (notably in the US) who want the strongest "knife" possible so that they can pry up rocks, prise open doors or window frames for forced entry (LEO) or hammer it through whatever takes their fancy.

For anything that you will want to do in bushcraft, the higher grind, thinner blade and better insulated and more comfortable handle of the original F1 will serve you much better.

What do you want to do with it?

Regarding battoning, the greatest proponent and most skilled practitioner that I have seen was Mors Kochanski, who describes the perfect survival knife as a pry bar that carves wood really well...and the knife that he used that he felt embodied this was the Skookum Bushtool, with a 1/8th thick blade. I am happy that my 1/8th knives are tough enough without full tangs and I have beaten on them pretty hard without problems. You really don't need 5mm full tang sabre grind to do heavy work. The original will be fine.

 

[gra_farmer]

The consensus is the original design, but just to put it out there......vg10 is very good in the F1, if you are doing wild camping, having to carry a full on sharpening system for a higher end steel may not be worth it.

Vg10 lasts a while and sharpens up quickly....worth considering

 

[Janne]

The hardness is similar.
I would go for the thinner one. Better ‘cutter’.

 

[woodsorrel]

I have greatly enjoyed using my F1 in VG-10. I just strop it to keep it sharp. But if I needed to sharpen it, I would use wet/dry sandpaper, a sharpie, and a mouse pad.

Here is a review of the F1 in VG-10.

https://www.natureoutside.com/fallkniven-f1-knife-review/

- Woodsorrel

 

[Uilleachan]

I'm a bit late to the party on this one, sorry However, as said, it depends what you're into. The standard F1 is a great knife, good all rounder; but the F1x is a better knife in all respects. Sure, for arctic bare hand use exposed cold steel isn't the best, plus it's a bit too much of a compromise design to excel in any single application, but for balance sheer strength and competence in multi disciplined application the F1x has few contenders in its price range, when quality of build is taken into account, yeah, you could buy 20 cheapies for the asking price and why not, thats valid too.

The TK 2 is a great knife, a better knife a superior knife, way better than any F1 version out of the box for sleekness ease of application and finesse, I have one in my fishing bag and have dressed countless fish, have dressed and butchered medium sized game with it, but it ships with the volume of steel most of the Fallkniven knife range would be holding after 20 years of continual hard use. Fine if you're an old codger, but of more limited life span for the younger folk looking at longer term use.

The standard TK2 is a near spent stub in comparison to the standard F1, despite being the superior handling knife out of the box. The F1 will become the TK2 over an extended time period through use. However a full tang TK2 version will cost near three times the of the price of the F1x, and a F1x is a full tang knife a third of the cost of any alternative full tang version of the F1. It's more knife for less money and despite the steel it'll become a better knife over time through use. That in my book makes it a winner, not even Toddy could break it.

Then there's Fieldcrafter UK of this here parish, looking at and holding the F1x I tip my hat to that lad, he was head and shoulders ahead of the curve, he was producing a very similar carbon version of the modern F1x 5 years before we saw anything comparable by any manufacturer.... Just saying.

 

[marcoruhland]

i never buy a fällkiven (standard, pro, or with leather handle) so far because there build quality was a problem especially if you want a knife for batoning - one wrong hit and the handle has a damage

i don't understand why they produce all the time not a full tang version - but now i'am an owner of an a1xb the wohl new series "x" is great and the black version ist not a standard coating so this works great it protect the blade (and the best steel fällkniven used so for the serie) - this is not only a tactical feature
f1x is too short (f1: 10cm s1: 13cm a1: 16cm) for me and for batoning (the blade thickness is f1: 5mm, s1: 6mm, a1: 7mm) so if there is not a restriction to carry take the longer a1x(b)
i don't like the original sheath so i buy a kydex from os

mr

 

[bigboned]

Sorry for hijak, any opinions on the f1 pro over the original?

 

[marcoruhland]

here in the video (1:02) you can see how bad is the quality of the f1 pro handle especially the attachment of the parrying element - what a bad construction so take the new x that is build for lifetime (and may be something smaller for cutting/carving like a 111mm vic)

dbk make many fälkniven videos so here is another funny about x vs. pro

fällkniven makes many versions of f1 (vg10/cos/3g/pro) up to the limited edition f1l3gbm this is the only full tang version before the x

mr

 

[Erbswurst]

I would take the original F1 which was develloped in collaboration with the Swedish air force and nothing else.

(Perhaps a newer version with an other steel, I don't know the different characteristics of them and how good you are with sharpening knifes. But I guess it's possible to sharpen every Fällkniven knifes with Fällkniven diamant/ ceramic sharpening pocket tools. To become sure about it you could ask them directly. )

They invested a lot of money and thoughts in developing the F1 and decided that this is the best survival knife they can give to their pilots.

So what does that mean???
It means that in the opinion of the survival specialists of the Swedish army in this time every other solution would be worse.

And as you see at the pin in the video the other knifes may look good but they are made for civil users who just want a cool knife.

The original F1 is an outstanding good survival knife but a horrible kitchen knife!

You should take additional an outstanding light, cheap and sharp Opinel No8 Carbone as a kitchen knife with you (and for fine carving) in my opinion, or perhaps a Victorinox Compact as multifunctional camping kitchen knife with nail scissors which also works relatively good for food preparation.

I personally would buy the open leather sheath, by the way, but would prefer for paddling the closed one.

I owned the F1 a couple of years and used it regularly until it was unfortunately confiscated by the French police.

It is made in Japan, by the way, and no Swedish product, because they didn't find a Swedish knive maker who was able to deliver a knife in that quality when they wanted to buy it years ago.

 

[marcoruhland]

there two stories ( was ist designed for the army or the army decide for this because it was available) fact is the f1 is 25 years old and was taken because the search for a swedisch manufacturer ( same reason for the saab gripped) better than the pro (except the limited fun tang edition) but not than the f1x(b)

so in no situation the f1 is a good survival knife (it is better than many other or no knife yes but this is today not a grade) so if there is no restriction take a longer (s, a or a2l) and with a better steel than the vg-10 - cos or 3g but than it is over £200 therefore you get a maybe unknown white river fc4/5/7 (s35vn) with a fire steel and kydex or leather sheath or one of the best outdoor (woodwork tools) the skrama under £100!

so for for me there is no advantage for the original ( and in winter or when i chopped i wear gloves) f1 and if you find a £20 deal this is a chinese fake version

mr