English Walnut Advice

[Jedadiah]

Evening all,
quick question for all you re-handlers out there, has anyone had experience using english walnut?

I love the wood and am in the process creating a Budget quality bushcraft knife for under a tenner (more at a later date).

So, could anyone advise me on how to proof or treat the walnut that will

1. Waterproof it
2. Not alter the woods apperance
3. Give a matt or satin finish
4. Anything else i should know about using this wood for re-handling.

I have said not alter the woods appearance but, to be honest, i dont mind if it darkens slightly, just as long as i retain the beautiful grain.

I intend to put the project on a thread when it is finished for your thoughts and comments, many thanks,

Jedadiah

 

[bushtank]

Hi Jedadiah
linseed oil does a good job for me mate looks good on any wood

 

[billycan]

Using linseed oil and or beeswax protects it and gives it a matt finish. Working with walnut stains your hands blue/purple.

 

[Shinken]

CCL oil is the way to go if you do not want to alter its appearence. Linseed oil will darken it. Its the expensive option though. Danish oil tends to be a little lighter than linseed, mixing it with pure gum turpentine will lighten it still furthter.

CCL oil will leave a shiney finish, if you have a buffer you can use a hard wax after applying the CCL. This is the best hard wearing finish inmho

 

[Dave Budd]

I use walnut a fair bit, it came from a tree that I climberd as a child

I would suggest soaking the wood in tung oil once it's all put together. Tung oil is not too pricey and it air hardens (like linseed and danish oil) so giving a protective surface and a nourished looking wood. It doesn't alter the colour like Linseed (also dries mmore quickly) and it doesn't need thinners that could dissagree with the glues in your handle (like danish can do).

It leaves a mat finish, but accpets wax or buffing componds if you prefer shiny

If you have a porous piece, use a sealer or thin superglue. I use superglue as it sets hard and holds any unseen flaws together

These knives have walnut handles

 

[Jedadiah]

Where could i get some tung oil? How would i know if the scales are porous?
and if i used sealer or thin superglue, do i just rub it on the scales when the oil has dried?

Sorry there is so many questions but this is my first time(!), i'm trying to lose my handle making cherry and any info would be greatly appreciated.

(Your Knives look great by the way)

Many thanks

 

[Dave Budd]

Tung oil can be bought from some good hardware stores but I get mine by the litre from Axminster! (they sell smaller bottles too )

you know if your wood is porous if it has pores in it i.e there are little holes in the surface, things like oak are porous but I don't use a sealer as it can affect teh colour changes with oxidation. Walnut sometimes has soft spots that can be firmed up by the application of thin superglue, it soaks into it a mm or so.

I normally finish the handle down to 280grit (or simlar) then saturate with the glue (if i am at all) then go over lightly with teh 280 again, to remove the glue on the wood leaving only whatever has soaked in. Then continue sanding with finer grits until I get the finish I want. Then I degrease teh surface with acetone (white spirit will do) and soak in a jamjar of tung overnight in the house (warm oil is thinner than cold oil)

Then next day I take it out, wipe off the excess and leave for a few hours to dry off. The tung will be set completly in a day or so, but a few hours before putting the knife into a sheath is a good idea.

hope that helps