Dying problems

[Tadpole]

I’ve just made some sheaths out of an off cut of “Natural veg tanned leather” bought I will admit from eBay. I was careful when sewing/ handling it, washing my hands and keeping every thing as clean as I could, all appeared to be good.
However when it came to dying it, the dying is not as simple as I’d hoped.
First I wet formed the sheath, getting the shape as I wanted it, and then smoothed the edges. Dying the sheath when still slightly damp (many on this forum say damp leather is easier and gives a more even coat.) BTW I’m using Fiebings black. The first coat goes on ok, but within about an hour, the surface of the leather is covered in what I can only say looks like a black dust
On the first sheath I wiped the dust off before the sheath was fully dry, but this left the dye covering patchy, the second sheath I applied the dye when the sheath more moist than last time, result even worse. When the first coat of dye was fully dry I tried rubbing off the black dust, lots of dye rubbed off as I was removing the dust. Second coat was better on the first sheath, but still bits rubbed off when applying the Carnauba Cream, which kind of looks ok as it gives it the “old leather look”.

Ok so what am I doing wrong, should I need ‘dye prep’ on plain natural veg tanned leather, Being second hand, could the leather have a treatment on it that is invisible but will affect the dye, if so what can I do about it now.
What can I use to remove the Carnauba Cream so I can re-dye the first sheath a third time?
Is it worth it?
I’m planning on selling the four sheaths, so I’d like my efforts to be as good as I can make them.
All advice welcome.

 

[g4ghb]

are you planning on dyeing them all black - if so vinagaroon http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38816 may be the answer...

I use fieblings pro oil dye and have had no 'black dust' problems

you can buy 'dye prep' which stinks (think it is amonia based) but I don't tend to bother or wipe over with meths if I know it's got a tad greasy

I guess the leather could be the issue but as long as it is veg tan the vinagaroon will be the answer as it isn't a dye

 

[Tadpole]

are you planning on dyeing them all black - if so vinagaroon http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38816 may be the answer...

I use fieblings pro oil dye and have had no 'black dust' problems

you can buy 'dye prep' which stinks (think it is amonia based) but I don't tend to bother or wipe over with meths if I know it's got a tad greasy

I guess the leather could be the issue but as long as it is veg tan the vinagaroon will be the answer as it isn't a dye

Great for that, On my next try I'm sure that is going to be easier than dying the leather.

Any idea what I can do with the stuff I have now that is dyed and waxed now. Something simple as I'm new to leather work

 

[g4ghb]

you could always try a test piece - cream a scrap like you did the sheath then try soaking it in vinageroon

or give it a good going over with good old black shoe polish - this often evens out variations and gives a good shine - keep 'polishing' till it is even and how you want it!

 

[Tadpole]

or give it a good going over with good old black shoe polish - this often evens out variations and gives a good shine - keep 'polishing' till it is even and how you want it!

Why didn't I think of that:You_Rock_

 

[singteck]

If you use Fiebing Black, then the result you achive is correct. If you want an even black then you will have to dye it a few times.

You wil have to burnish the dye to fix it. When burnishing, you will get dye rub off. That is normal and so is the black dust. Burnish with a piece of cloth until the dye stop bleeding.

You can try Feibing Professional Black Dye which requires less burnishing and less black dye dust when dried. If burnishing is too much work, you can seal the dye with a clear coat. Acrylic or shellec works.

singteck

 

[Tadpole]

If you use Fiebing Black, then the result you achive is correct. If you want an even black then you will have to dye it a few times.

You wil have to burnish the dye to fix it. When burnishing, you will get dye rub off. That is normal and so is the black dust. Burnish with a piece of cloth until the dye stop bleeding.

You can try Feibing Professional Black Dye which requires less burnishing and less black dye dust when dried. If burnishing is too much work, you can seal the dye with a clear coat. Acrylic or shellec works.

singteck

Thank you, I'm reasssured that it's normal, I don't mind the work, I just though I had done something wrong, or the leather was treated.
Would Resolene be suitable to protect the dye, as I bought some ages ago, but have never used it.

Is there someway I can remove the Carnauba so I can re-dye the one that I have waxed? I don't mind if there isn't, as I kind of like the worn around the edges look of the sheath as it is. It looks kind of new but antique.

 

[singteck]

Thank you, I'm reasssured that it's normal, I don't mind the work, I just though I had done something wrong, or the leather was treated.
Would Resolene be suitable to protect the dye, as I bought some ages ago, but have never used it.

Is there someway I can remove the Carnauba so I can re-dye the one that I have waxed? I don't mind if there isn't, as I kind of like the worn around the edges look of the sheath as it is. It looks kind of new but antique.

I've never used Resolene so I can't advice you on that. I've heard that it's also acrylic based so it should work.

As for the carnauba wax, you have to try dyeing a section of the sheath again to see what happen. The dye might penetrate when the thinner (or what ever they use to make it a paste) in the canauba wax dries.

Hope that helps

singteck