Drunk bafoon dry grinds my axe!

[ScottC]

Last night my brother had some friends round. I hid my axe under my bed so it wouldn't get messed up. yeah right. After logging off BCUK I went upto my room to find some T**t had taken my axe and tried to sharpen it on a dry waterstone. :***: :f: :aargh4: :z: :boot: :AR15firin :tw: :smiley-fa :yikes: :archer:

I don't think it's damaged severely, I'm going to get a DC4 and do some serious sharpening. The waterstone is clogged with metal particles.

What do you think?

 

[ScottC]

Ok sorry about the size, how do I make them smaller?

 

[TheViking]

Hi again...

how do I make them smaller?

You have to edit them in your picture program. Then click resize and reduce them to a smaller size. This is the way I do it. Remember to save the changes before exiting.

 

[Simon]

bit teeny now YB .. convex grind?

 

[ScottC]

bit teeny now YB

I'm working on it

.. convex grind?

Yep

 

[ScottC]

Ok how about those. Comments on state please.

 

[Simon]

http://www.mhcable.com/~yocraft/sosak/convex.htm

fastest way to clean that up is to go with wet'n'dry, in descending grit ... the above will give you an idea how to deal with it. I like to use WD40 with the wet'n'dry and sometimes I add pumice to the WD40. ..

best technique would be ....... find out who did it and T:

no .. that would be illegal ... ok .. second technique ..... if you've got a bit of flat wood, a piece of 2x1 planed would be ok, wrap it with cloth and then with Wet'n'dry and use this as you would a file working towards and away from the edge and not in to the edge as it would be dangerous and also cut in to the wet'n'dry ... work with the handle firmly clamped in something if possible and with the blade facing away from you. The cloth will give you that bit of give and flexibility to conform to the curve of the convex edge, if you have some closed cell foam that would be even better than the cloth (closed cell foam is what cheap camping mats are made from).

My Convex sharpener is a 16" long piece of oak 50mm wide and 8mm thick, which I have glued a strip of 4mm closed cell foam too and I wrap wet'n'dry around that

 

[ScottC]

wet n dry? :?:

 

[Simon]

You'll find it in Halfords, car parts shops, B&Q and homebase sell it but they don't have a great range ..... it's like sandpaper but it's waterproof and uses silicon carbide as the abrasive

 

[ScottC]

Ok so I take a block of wood stick some closed cell foam onto it (would a mousemat bottom side up work?) and then wrap this Wet n' Dry round the block and spray some WD40 onto it??

Then clamp the axe in place and work the block towards and away from the edge then turn it over and do it on the other side until the edge is cleared up??

A little more information on how to achieve this and design specifications and more sharpening information would be a god send. ): :biggthump

 

[Simon]

mouse mat is fine

design specifications? :yikes:

that's more or less the technique ... except with an axe .. it is easier to manouvre the sharpener rather than the blade

clamp the axe with the edge facing away from you and work the edge by pushing away from you

 

[tenbears10]

Hoodoo posted this pic of exactly what Simon is describing hope he wont mind me copying it

http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/images7/axehoning2b.jpg

Oh and Scott I've got three older brothers so I know only too well the situation you are in of clearing up after they have got ****** and messed with your stuff. Admittedly not for a few years now but still. My oldest brother once caught my hamster after it had escaped and released it into the garden thinking it was a mouse. He realised next day what he had done and confessed................... TEN YEARS later!!!

Bill

 

[ScottC]

Ok thanks for your help :biggthump

design specifications? :yikes:

I just meant more information on the size, materials and construction of the block but I've got it pretty much covered now thank you.

Do you push along the length of the bevel/edge or the width? The way the block is being held in that picture looks like you do the width and keeping with the blade curvature?

 

[Simon]

Almost

that's a good field sharpening technique, although I would have the edge facing away for safety reasons (leftover from supervising students in woodwork) .. for home maintanence, you can go a lot bigger with the sharpener and save a bit of time

 

[Simon]

I would tend to work diagonally to the edge from top to bottom

 

[ScottC]

Ok so tommorow I will get the materials and make me one of these. What went n Dry grits do you reccommend to sort the current state of the axe out and for future convex sharpening?

 

[ScottC]

Ok so tommorow I will get the materials and make me one of these. What went n Dry grits do you reccommend to sort the current state of the axe out and for future convex sharpening because i know theres more than just fine, medium and rough. ( well there is on sandpaper )

 

[Simon]

if it's a real mess then i'd start with 240 .. if it's not so bad .. start with 320 or 400 .. and go through 600, 1000, and then finish with 2000 and finally strop... and you will have a shaving sharp axe with a nice polished edge

 

[ScottC]

Ok thanks for all your help. :super: :You_Rock_

One last question if you don't mind, how many strokes should I do on each side before going onto the next grit. Given my experience of stone sharpening I would say 8-10 but as I have no experience of this type of sharpening I'm interested in what you think.

 

[Andy]

I haven't found any places that sell wet and dry in a grit finer then 600. could you suggest some please