DIY Wood Burning Tent Stove Project

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mmcniven

Forager
Nov 1, 2003
139
1
55
Paisley
I have been using a Kifaru teepee and stove for the past year and find it an excellent peice of kit for scottish winters, the only thing that i was wanting to improve was the burn time of the stove and i realised to achieve this i would need to make an air tight stove. After looking about various sites in the US and discovering the carraige charges on such a stove would be in excess of $120 !!!! more than the cost of the stove.......I decided to build my own :p

Using 0.8 and 1.2mm 304 Stainless Steel which i bought and had bent by a local supplier ( although you could buy a cheap bender and bend it yourself as all the bends are just easy 90 degrees)

Assembly took about 10 hours, all joints were sealed with exhaust assembly paste and bolted together so that if need be the stove could be disassembled for repair at a later date.
newstove1.jpg

This is the stove afters its first burn to set the assembly paste, all went well apart from the door warps slightly when hot and the bolt wont fasten but it doesnt appear to effect the performance other than letting in some air but with the vents shut it seems to tick over nicely. I may attempt to solve this by stiffening up the door but i will see how it runs first.
teepeewithnewstove.jpg

The first field test was at Braemar
With the chimney fitted the stove ran really well, burning of the wood was far more controllable than with my kifaru stove and with it fully loaded with fuel would burn happily away for well over an hour with heat still being produced up to 2 hours later, i was lucky to get 45 minutes out of the kifaru stove.
newstove.jpg

Water was boiled on the stove in less than 5 minutes something which can take up to 20 minutes on the kifaru stove due to the fact that the top on the kifaru stove warps during use and leaves an air gap between the stove top and the pot making it very hard to boil water.
I have just to make up some steel legs for the stove to finish it off, i was using green sticks for the test so that i could play about with the hieght of it before making legs.
All in all it is fairly easy to make the only tools i used were a power drill, jig saw with metal cutting blade, hack saw and that was about it. A cheap and very effective stove. I used the chimney from my kifaru stove just because it is so light and i love the design but i am sure that sections of pipe could be bought to do the same job.

Michael
 

led

Settler
Aug 24, 2004
544
5
uk
Excellent, thanks for posting that. I'm looking to do something similar myself. (Any chance of sorting out the pictures).
 

led

Settler
Aug 24, 2004
544
5
uk
When I first loaded the thread, the images were replaced with one stating that linking wasn't allowed from a free account. They've gone now and I can see them fine. Lovely they are too. What diameter is the flue pipe BTW?
 

moduser

Life Member
May 9, 2005
1,356
6
60
Farnborough, Hampshire
Pic are working now. When I originally looked they were replaced by an image that said something link "no external linking allowed".

Looks like a real nice stove.

Be interested in a follow up after it's been in the field or used alot.
 

mmcniven

Forager
Nov 1, 2003
139
1
55
Paisley
Phew i thought i had made a mess of the pictures :lmao:


It is 3 1/2 inch diameter flue pipe, i had to stick to that as the opening in my tent is only that size
 

happy camper

Nomad
May 28, 2005
291
2
Scotland
hello :)
very nicely done, i'd been wondering whether exhaust paste and bolts would work well.
what do you use for a chimney? i want to get a tent stove myself but i figure i should scource the chimney first, if i'm building one, so that i can build the stove to accomodate it.
Also, did you use stove rope to seal the door?
cheers ( and sorry for all the questions) :)
 

tomtom

Full Member
Dec 9, 2003
4,283
5
38
Sunny South Devon
mike thats great.. i would love to make one for my moscoselkatan tipi (not that i will ever get round to it) i have a few questions!

one.. how much did it cost
two.. whats the smallest chimney di you could get away with!
three.. how far from the ground do you think it needs to be to avoild leaving any burn mark? (i think i would put metal feet one one..)
four.. do you think you could fry on top of it
five.. would it be viable to build a water boiler on the side of it like some of the american style ones have
six.. do you think it would be inaffective if it was made any smaller

sorry for all the questions..
Good thread :D :You_Rock_
 

mmcniven

Forager
Nov 1, 2003
139
1
55
Paisley
The bolts and exhaust paste does seem to do the job ok there are no leaks that i can find in the stove but only time will tell how good it is, i had originally wanted to construct the stove with hem folds in the stainless which would produce a far better seal but the cost to get these done was just a bit to expensive, around £150 to get all the steel folded........just a bit too much and i recon that this method would be good enough for my first stove.
I used the chimney from Kifaru stove which is made from stainless steel foil which you roll into a chimney, a great idea and it works alot better than you would think, i didnt try and source the stainless foil but i am sure you should be able to get it. I had thought about a chimney in sections and i would think that a ducting company should be able to supply something suitable but again i havent investigated this.
As far as sealing the door with stove rope i dont think it is really necessary the door does warp a bit when it is in use but the gap is fairly small and with the vents closed it does allow enough air in to let stove burn away at a slow rate. I think the rope is a bit delicate as well and might not stand up to much abuse but i could be wrong there as i dont have any experience of it and that is just what i have heard.
Hope this helps.
Michael
 

mmcniven

Forager
Nov 1, 2003
139
1
55
Paisley
Hi Tomtom

No problem with all the questions.

one.. how much did it cost - i actually got the steel folded as a leaving present from my work which was nice but i recon it would cost about £40 for the steel and how ever much for the bending i was quoted £5 for 2 bends it just depends on the supplier

two.. whats the smallest chimney di you could get away with! I have a 3 1/2inch diameter chimney i recon you could go down to 2 inchs

three.. how far from the ground do you think it needs to be to avoild leaving any burn mark? (i think i would put metal feet one one..) ye i am going to put metal feet on mine, it doesnt need to be that far off the ground i had it on the ground to start with and it didnt leave any marks but it wasnt going full pelt but i recon 2 inchs would be possible, i am going to mount mine 6 inchs off the ground so that i can dry out wood underneath it.

four.. do you think you could fry on top of it Definetly i cant see that being a problem

five.. would it be viable to build a water boiler on the side of it like some of the american style ones have I have my doubts on the effectiveness of these boilers any air gap severly reduces the heating capabilities of the water and all the boilers i have seen have a slight air gap so you will only ever get hot and not boiling water from it, not sure if this would be any good especially if the water is from a stream and needs boiling first, if its for a shower then fine :lmao:

six.. do you think it would be inaffective if it was made any smaller The dimensions of mine are 9 x10x12 inchs and the heat i get from it is really too much with it going full pelt.....i need both doors open in my teepee so it could easily be made smaller, i made it this size so that i could get thicker slow burning logs in it to increase the burn time when going to sleep

Hope this helps

Michael
 

mmcniven

Forager
Nov 1, 2003
139
1
55
Paisley
Ye welding would be the best option but I was trying to make something that I wouldnt have to weld to keep the cost down. The joint design would have to be changed slightly for welding but it would produce an even better stove.

Michael
 

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